Timing procedure - need advice
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,544
Likes: 2
From: okc
OK, i hope this makes sense.....you can put that distributer about anywhere you want as long as certain things inside line up right...with the piston at TCD, note where the rotor bug is pointing as compared to a solid object on the motor somewhere, now slowly pull the dizzy up until it clears the gear then turn the rotor bug counterclockwise about 2 or 3 teeth...basically, stab and restab the dizzy until the rotor bug points at the number one plug wire with the VA facing forward( maybe slightly to the driver side)..when u get that part, remove the rotor bug and look at the pickup prongs at the base of the dizzy shaft under the rotor, it should be lined up with the little rectangular contact of the pickup coil in the dizzy.....if they arent restab until you get it right on with the dizzy sitting how you want...if that reluctor isnt matched up it throws your timing way off...if it still gives you fits, restab the dizzy one tooth at a time each way( keeping track of how many teeth you move it) until you find that sweet spot....
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
Quote:
My concern is with how far to the left the VA is relative to the engine.
We know that
That's why my comment to reset the wires.
Doing this allows the VA to come further back away from the engine part without you removing the dizzy to get the timing closer.
Quote:The #1 wire is correct, look at the expanded view picture on the web page below.
The spot is wrong, that is the 2 o'clock position not 12-1 0'clock.
The wires have to be moved 1 position counter-clockwise
My concern is with how far to the left the VA is relative to the engine.
We know that
That's why my comment to reset the wires.
Doing this allows the VA to come further back away from the engine part without you removing the dizzy to get the timing closer.
Quote:The #1 wire is correct, look at the expanded view picture on the web page below.
The spot is wrong, that is the 2 o'clock position not 12-1 0'clock.
The wires have to be moved 1 position counter-clockwise
Last edited by Mil1ion; Apr 1, 2006 at 08:34 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
mil1ion,
I do not believe that the wires are in the wrong position relative to the distributor. Moving them one postion counter clockwise only forces the VA to need to be moved more to the left. It is already as far to the left as it can go.
I posted a better picture of the distributor, showing the #1 marking on the cap:
http://home.twcny.rr.com/mattandamie/
BTW, thank you, and everyone you has provided to this thread. I appreciate your expertise. I drove the truck today, but it does not seem right; it doesn't backfire, but does stutter very subtlely between 30-50 mph.
Thanks again,
Matt
I do not believe that the wires are in the wrong position relative to the distributor. Moving them one postion counter clockwise only forces the VA to need to be moved more to the left. It is already as far to the left as it can go.
I posted a better picture of the distributor, showing the #1 marking on the cap:
http://home.twcny.rr.com/mattandamie/
BTW, thank you, and everyone you has provided to this thread. I appreciate your expertise. I drove the truck today, but it does not seem right; it doesn't backfire, but does stutter very subtlely between 30-50 mph.
Thanks again,
Matt
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, OH
Okay, you've got your wires on wrong. The #1 plug wire needs to go onto the post directly below where it is now, not the coil post, but the one that is exactly one position clockwise. This will reorient the distrubutor to where it should be.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
Maybe they stamped the #1 in the wrong place ? 
I may have to go take a pic of mine for you
Check out this pic.
It's for a 302 but it's the same thing when it comes to this situation.
It looks like you have it right as far as location goes. 3rd spot from hold down clip.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=94128&width=0
I may have to go take a pic of mine for you
Check out this pic.
It's for a 302 but it's the same thing when it comes to this situation.
It looks like you have it right as far as location goes. 3rd spot from hold down clip.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=94128&width=0
Last edited by Mil1ion; Apr 1, 2006 at 09:42 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Mil1ion,
I did move the plug wires, it could be that the '#1' stamp is in the wrong place. It did allow me to move the VA more toward the center of the engine. I found something else; once the motor is at normal operating temperature, I do not feel any suction from the hose going to the VA. Also, at normal operating temperature, the timing is the same (i.e. it does not change) with the hose on or off. I am beginning to thing that the hose tree on the intake manifold becomes obstructed when the motor is hot. Is this possible?
I did move the plug wires, it could be that the '#1' stamp is in the wrong place. It did allow me to move the VA more toward the center of the engine. I found something else; once the motor is at normal operating temperature, I do not feel any suction from the hose going to the VA. Also, at normal operating temperature, the timing is the same (i.e. it does not change) with the hose on or off. I am beginning to thing that the hose tree on the intake manifold becomes obstructed when the motor is hot. Is this possible?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,544
Likes: 2
From: okc
The VA is on a thermal vacuum switch, its supposed to be off when warm..ithe VA helps the motor run smoother when cold, and isnt really needed when warm..at least its that way when the motor is in tiptop shape anyways....did you check the pickup coil reluctors under the rotor bug with the dizzy pointing at #1???
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
Okay, so now timing reading can you get now ?
I'll find you pic of the vacuum lines so you can see how the system works.
The Vacuum Advance is supposed to be hooked to what they call a Ported Vacuum during normal engine operation.
Ported vacuum is activated when the engine RPM is increased.
Here is a diagram for a 79 460.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/997jr0.jpg
I'll find you pic of the vacuum lines so you can see how the system works.
The Vacuum Advance is supposed to be hooked to what they call a Ported Vacuum during normal engine operation.
Ported vacuum is activated when the engine RPM is increased.
Here is a diagram for a 79 460.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/997jr0.jpg
Last edited by Mil1ion; Apr 3, 2006 at 11:39 PM.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
The timing is at 12 degrees BTC with the vac hose off. It runs like a champ.
Thanks to everyone here you gave me the know-how. I appreciate it, especially mil1ion, petes79f150, swokcoffroader, and pfogle;everyone.
Now, I have to get it painted....
Have a great Easter to all.
Matt
Thanks to everyone here you gave me the know-how. I appreciate it, especially mil1ion, petes79f150, swokcoffroader, and pfogle;everyone.
Now, I have to get it painted....
Have a great Easter to all.
Matt