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Problems Running
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Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Summit, NJ
Problems Running
Hello all,
I recently developed a new problem with my truck. It seems it does not want to run when it is warmed up. From a cold start it will only run 1-2 miles before it just cuts out. If I try to restart the truck it will run for 15-30 seconds before cutting out. Then, if I allow it to cool down for 30 minutes it might run half a mile. I tried replacing the coil and the condenser / points and that has not seemed to help. Any ideas?
James Kern
1970 F250 4x4
I recently developed a new problem with my truck. It seems it does not want to run when it is warmed up. From a cold start it will only run 1-2 miles before it just cuts out. If I try to restart the truck it will run for 15-30 seconds before cutting out. Then, if I allow it to cool down for 30 minutes it might run half a mile. I tried replacing the coil and the condenser / points and that has not seemed to help. Any ideas?
James Kern
1970 F250 4x4
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
Problems Running
Just it Cut Out Suddenly or slowly?
If it's suddenly then it could be:
Ignition modulator
Ignition switch
Coil or ignition connection
Dennis
Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions As:
"I'm Saving Up MY Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's"
78 F-150 429CJ C6 ,Silver w/Explorer Pkge
641/2 Mustang,Pre-World's Fair Car #8092
64 Fairlane S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang.Sunlit Gold 80,000 miles
If it's suddenly then it could be:
Ignition modulator
Ignition switch
Coil or ignition connection
Dennis
Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions As:
"I'm Saving Up MY Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's"
78 F-150 429CJ C6 ,Silver w/Explorer Pkge
641/2 Mustang,Pre-World's Fair Car #8092
64 Fairlane S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang.Sunlit Gold 80,000 miles
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,428
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From: Summit, NJ
Problems Running
As far as I can tell the choke is set properly, never had a problem with it before. When it dies, it dies somewhat slowly. I guess it takes a few seconds for it to lose power and die. If I let it sit for quite a while (an hour or so) I can start it up and run for maybe a minute. If its at a dead cold start it will run for maybe 5 or 10 minutes. Since this problem started it seems as though its getting progressively worse... so gradually whatever is failing is doing a good job at failing. The voltage regulator is new and the distributor cap, rotor, points, condenser, plugs, wires, battery cables, and solenoid are prettymuch new. I never seemed to have a problem with the ignition switch before, so I don't think its that. Whatever component it is seems to have a problem with heating up.
James Kern
1970 F250 4x4
James Kern
1970 F250 4x4
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 9
From: Sun River St. George
Problems Running
James, Get a vacuum/pressure gage. Test engine vacuum when the engine will run (see if it slowly drops off), and check fuel pump pressure. Feel the ignition switch and the bulk head connectors for heat (bad connection will get hot). Post back
William in Atlanta
William in Atlanta
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Lincoln USA
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Problems Running
Is the fuel bowl dry? When it dies, does the accelerator pump squirt fuel when actuated?
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Joe Kucinski
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,613
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From: Gainesville, FL
Problems Running
Big Jim,
I shooting in the dark, just for fun. I think it's fuel!
Let's answer some questions:
1. Does it backfire? Ignition
2. Does it die at once or kick in and out as she goes down?
a. Die at once = Total ignition failure
b. On and Off mutiple times = Fuel filter, probably in tank.
If it dies on and off repeatedly and backfires its ignition. If it dies on and off and no backfire it's fuel. A sputtering motor with no backfire is fuel.
General rules:
1. Coils don't go bad.
2. Points are undependable and useless in a worn distributor.
3. Duraspark boxes will never go bad if you have an extra with you.
4. Duraspark boxes are too easy to replace so that's probably not it.
5. Distibutor stator pickup is impossible to diagnosis and never changed for good measure. Could be your problem, maybe.
Check your plugs and report back.
My Way is the Highway.
KingFisher
I shooting in the dark, just for fun. I think it's fuel!
Let's answer some questions:
1. Does it backfire? Ignition
2. Does it die at once or kick in and out as she goes down?
a. Die at once = Total ignition failure
b. On and Off mutiple times = Fuel filter, probably in tank.
If it dies on and off repeatedly and backfires its ignition. If it dies on and off and no backfire it's fuel. A sputtering motor with no backfire is fuel.
General rules:
1. Coils don't go bad.
2. Points are undependable and useless in a worn distributor.
3. Duraspark boxes will never go bad if you have an extra with you.
4. Duraspark boxes are too easy to replace so that's probably not it.
5. Distibutor stator pickup is impossible to diagnosis and never changed for good measure. Could be your problem, maybe.
Check your plugs and report back.
My Way is the Highway.
KingFisher
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: south east
Problems Running
I had this exact problem. I could get down the road for 10 min. and then it just dies. Lose all power to the motor. The problem was a bad coil. Talked to my mechanic friend and he said this is a common symptom. I replaced the coil and it stopped. I think the coil was like $15. So if you are going to try and fix it by the process of elimination, I would start there.
Jeff
Jeff
Freshman User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Problems Running
ok,...I pretty much have the same problem on my 79 4x4 150 i have been able to get it traced back to the fuel...(After replacing everthing else electronic)...How would you go about trouble shooting the fuel system?...Ive changed the pump twice to be sure...I have a clear filter and can see that gas is only ocassionally getting to the carb..this is what ive done:
1) bypassed the fuel lines with hose & still had same problem (illiminates fuel lines)
2) replaced the fuel tank selector valve (no change)
3) Siphoned gas from each tank (seems to flow freely once started..illiminates tanks)
What else should I do?....how does the carb vent gas built up in the fuel system? (going to try and replace the carb since its new maybe i'll get lucky) only other thing I can think of trying after the carb is to put a electric fuel pump to get more constant flow...
1) bypassed the fuel lines with hose & still had same problem (illiminates fuel lines)
2) replaced the fuel tank selector valve (no change)
3) Siphoned gas from each tank (seems to flow freely once started..illiminates tanks)
What else should I do?....how does the carb vent gas built up in the fuel system? (going to try and replace the carb since its new maybe i'll get lucky) only other thing I can think of trying after the carb is to put a electric fuel pump to get more constant flow...
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,428
Likes: 3
From: Summit, NJ
Problems Running
Well, I finally got to the auto parts store. I picked up a fuel filter and a spark coil and replaced both. Its been running for about 15-20 minutes so far sitting in the parking lot. Wait, hold on.. let me check if its still going (pause)...yep, still going. Im gonna let it run for another 15-20 before I try to move it. I almost forgot to mention that it did run out of gas pretty recently before my problems started happening (I still have to fix my fuel guage). One thing I noticed when I replaced the spark coil was that the plug was very oily. I think it may have been leaking. I'll keep you guys posted if the problem still persists.
James Kern
1970 F250 4x4
:-X11
James Kern
1970 F250 4x4
:-X11