? on frame welding
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? on frame welding
The recommendations I've seen say "45" wire for MIG'ing 3/16 plate, and "35" for 1/8 plate (Sheet).
When welding the MII crossmember to the frame of the 51, I'm essentially welding 3/16's thick plate to a 1/8 thick "c" channel.
Which wire should be used? Regardless of of heat, speed, and amperage settings on the welder, when welding thicker material to a "thinner" base metal, which wire should be used?
When welding the MII crossmember to the frame of the 51, I'm essentially welding 3/16's thick plate to a 1/8 thick "c" channel.
Which wire should be used? Regardless of of heat, speed, and amperage settings on the welder, when welding thicker material to a "thinner" base metal, which wire should be used?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
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From: "Islander"
With 3/16" your at the 180 amp range, 1/8" 125 amp. On .035" wire it's range is 50 to 180 amps. If you use .035" wire you'll just have a higher feed speed vs going to .045". Unless you plan on welding alot of thick material I would use .035" if most your welding is 3/16" and thinner.
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 1
From: Earth
I use .035" on most everything up to 3/8" thick. Trick is you just have to make multiple passes. I think it is more force of habit than anything as that is what I learned on and took my mig certification tests with. I only use .045 on thick pieces and I usually end up using a dual shield wire as you can really put the heat to it and lay down alot of filler.
You have to get a feel for your settings. Most problems people have with mig welding is cold lapping. Your weld might look ok but it may not be. You really have to know what you are doing and setup and ability is key.
You have to get a feel for your settings. Most problems people have with mig welding is cold lapping. Your weld might look ok but it may not be. You really have to know what you are doing and setup and ability is key.
Last edited by 53fatfndr; Mar 28, 2006 at 12:34 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
I was stick certified to weld at GM later NUNNI for a time, this made me weld too hot when I went to Mig the same problem with Tig. I see alot of home hobbie welds that people grind down the bead to make it look better AKA bird crap. Neighbor up the street built a 27 T bucket, he's in his 70's and the steering box plate welds broke off in town around 25 mph, got lucky but there must be alot of this type of fabrication welding across the country.
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 1
From: Earth
Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
I was stick certified to weld at GM later NUNNI for a time, this made me weld too hot when I went to Mig the same problem with Tig. I see alot of home hobbie welds that people grind down the bead to make it look better AKA bird crap. Neighbor up the street built a 27 T bucket, he's in his 70's and the steering box plate welds broke off in town around 25 mph, got lucky but there must be alot of this type of fabrication welding across the country.
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I have a few structural certifications through AWS for different processes and a pipe welding certification for boilers and pressure vessels through ASME.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Around 15 years ago at the drag strip a 66 Vette crashed and driver hurt bad, he had a roll cage that broke apart. It went thru tech as the bird crap welds were covered with a nice fillet of bondo and paint.
On a twin I beam project I added 3 1/4" just before the pivot on iron twin I beams by cutting off 3 1/4" longer on donor beams. beveled down to 1/4" point and stick welded up until it looked like factory after dressing down. A few people were shocked at what I did as to "you weakened the beam", when the beams were bent aligned the beam did not bend at the welded area.
By the way that 53 is one nice ride you have, shows alot of the hands on work not one of those open the check book rods.
.....=o&o>.....
On a twin I beam project I added 3 1/4" just before the pivot on iron twin I beams by cutting off 3 1/4" longer on donor beams. beveled down to 1/4" point and stick welded up until it looked like factory after dressing down. A few people were shocked at what I did as to "you weakened the beam", when the beams were bent aligned the beam did not bend at the welded area.
By the way that 53 is one nice ride you have, shows alot of the hands on work not one of those open the check book rods.
.....=o&o>.....
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Mar 28, 2006 at 02:28 PM.
