When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I recently realized that my truck is missing it's stock jack. I was thinking of getting a hi-lift jack to keep in the truck, but I wanted to get y'all's opinions of them. I know they are seen as a crucial tool in the off-road world, but how do they measure up with our trucks? Can they handle the weight of a CC PSD? Another question I have, what part the truck would you use as a jacking point for something as simple as changing a tire? I have never used a hi-lift before, so I know these questions may be juvenile, but I don't want to dish out the money for the hi-lift if it isn't practical for trucks like our's. Thanks for the help.
Factory bumpers and Hi-Lifts usually don't get along well. Also, Hi-Lift jacks tend to be very unstable and can be dangerous to you and your truck. There are many trucks with caved-in tailgates from Hi-Lifts that slipped. There are 48" and 60" highlifts, and if you have a full size pickup or lifted truck, the 48 may be too short. You may want to get a factory bottle jack at the junkyard just for roadside flat tire changes, anyway.
If you get your hand between a wobbly Hi-Lift (that would be all of them) and your truck, you could suffer a serious injury.
Having said all this, I love my Hi-Lift. Get a genuine, US-made one, not the evil Chinese ones that frequently don't work. They occasionally need a shot of WD-40 on the slider pins. They are great for pulling out pushed-in bumpers, using as a winch, a giant clamp, a boulder-pusher, when fourwheeling.
I wouldn't buy a Hi-Lift for changing tires - that might be its worst use. I *would* buy one for all the odd farm/ranch/truck repair/offroad tasks.
Factory bumpers and Hi-Lifts usually don't get along well. Also, Hi-Lift jacks tend to be very unstable and can be dangerous to you and your truck. There are many trucks with caved-in tailgates from Hi-Lifts that slipped. There are 48" and 60" highlifts, and if you have a full size pickup or lifted truck, the 48 may be too short. You may want to get a factory bottle jack at the junkyard just for roadside flat tire changes, anyway.
If you get your hand between a wobbly Hi-Lift (that would be all of them) and your truck, you could suffer a serious injury.
Having said all this, I love my Hi-Lift. Get a genuine, US-made one, not the evil Chinese ones that frequently don't work. They occasionally need a shot of WD-40 on the slider pins. They are great for pulling out pushed-in bumpers, using as a winch, a giant clamp, a boulder-pusher, when fourwheeling.
I wouldn't buy a Hi-Lift for changing tires - that might be its worst use. I *would* buy one for all the odd farm/ranch/truck repair/offroad tasks.
Ditto...get yourself a good wide-base bottle jack (better than the stock scissors by far IMO) for tire changes AND get the Hi-Lift if you go off-road. I've used mine probably 5 or 6 times in 10 years to jack my trucks out of ruts or to use it with chains like a winch. Also makes a good substitute hammer when you are need to re-manufacture something.
I agree. Hi Lift jacks are fantastic tools for a variety of jobs...except jacking a truck up to change tires or work on it. Most modern bumpers will bend or flex too much. I'd get a factory jack or a good hydraulic jack for changing tires.
I don't think you could get the tab under the front bumper with a standard Hi-Lift jack. I've had them for over 20 years and they work great for what they are designed for. (lifting a tire out of a hole, come- a- long and things like that) too unstable for tire changing I think. Maybe a small lite floor jack would be an option if you could find a place to bolt it to. Costco had some 6000 lb lite weight ones for about 120.00. But a stock one from the wrecking yard is the easyest way to go.
I have used my hilift at least a few hundred times on my rock crawlers, but never on my SD. I thought about fabing up four receivers and welding them directly to the frame near each wheel. Then fab up a hitch with a lift point instead of a hitch ball and make sure you weld up some grooves or section for the highlift fork so it does not slip. Go to a metal vendor and by the box tubing and get to welding. You should be able to it all for about less then $70.
Thanks for the help guys. I couldn't imagine a safe way to use the hi-lift for changing a tire, but I thought I just hadn't imagined every possibility. It looks like I was right though. I will start searching the junk yards for a stock one or a bottle jack.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.