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OK first is this knick in Kragen's rental worries me see the image.. the back side of the blade seems smooth just want to make sure..
Also I wanted to be sure where to start reaming as I'm not quite sure of the bottom of the ridge.. no picts defining exactly in christs book... this is my first ream.. would like to get it right, especialy on the account I can afford not to..TIA Redman
I can't tell for sure from the pic, but the cutter looks a little too used.
Let me make a suggestion. Rent or borrow a set of snap gauges and mics to measure the maixmum cylinder diameter to insure that you are within limits. Also, is the ridge uniform or is it possible that the cylinder is oval? Your manual should give you the tolerances.
Well it's reamed, the edge does look rather rough. I have to wait for Friday for $ to get the micrometers, telescopes..etc.. My usual 2 steps forward 1 step back..LOL The rods tolerances were good... 1/5 were worst at .015 others were all .012 not that that has much tyo do with the cylinder...just saying it doesn't look to bad from that end..I plan to go ahead and pull the lower end apart today unless there is a reason not to ...all ears...//
Someone fill me in here please.. I followed Christ's book (at least I think) and used a reamer to take the ridge off the bores..is it a must to bore the block now ? Or can it be honed and slapped back together ? I read the book to say be careful here or a rebore willbe a must, or even junk the block..I think I did an ok job on it..
If you want to check the bore get a good bore gauge like mitutoyo$$$. The largest part of the bore will be right below the ridge. If you were to use a reamer, and then hone it. You will have a tapered bore, the top being the widest and the bottom being the smallest diameter.
Well if it's only got .0005" taper, then he really wouldn't need to overbore.
That said, if there was enough ridge that he could feel it and needed to get a ridge remover to remove it, then there will be more than enough taper to necessitate an overbore.
The ridge was there not real bad. Mostly carbon ? I wish I had just used a hone..I'll check the bore next weekend no $$ at the moment for tools..hell and I just wanted to do this cheap and quick... figures..
I am not all knowing but i bet there is .004-.006 taper. I wouldn't be surprised if some blocks coming off the assembly line had more the 5 tenths taper aka .0005.
Usually blocks CAN be honed and be ok, however if you want to be safe and have it stripped down to bare block, i would have to agree with fordeverpower and have it bored.