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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:00 PM
  #1  
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Something Wrong Here?

For the life of me, i cannot get my truck to make over 25 PSI of boost. tonight coming home from town, turned the **** to "140", i locked the TC in 3 (drive, 1:1) and rolled on the throttle until it was matted. let off at 75mph/3000RPM (scared of PMR carnage) and i kept a keen eye on the boost gauge, and it would not go past 25. it shot from 5-20 very rapidly, and then took a long (relative) time to make the last 5 pounds. i think this may be a fuel problem. i have a Kwik filter in good condition, only about 5000 miles on it. do you think it can be a turbo problem? it needs rebuilt, as it only takes 4-5 seconds to stop spinning after a shutdown. luckily for me i have everything to rebuild it.

please come through again for me FTE!
 
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:21 PM
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What is "normal" supposed to be. Boots all clean and tight? What were the EGT's doing?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:24 PM
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Curious of EGTs as well, that may indicate if you have a turbo prob or not. You have your boost readings from your AIH delete correct? Mine will shoot to 25-27 psi after 2k RPMs very easily on the 120 setting.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:25 PM
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maybe your wastegate is opening letting boost escape. dont you have a relief valve in your map line? if the valves on the relief open and your tee for the boost guage is in the map line wont the guage read the same thing as the computer sees? i get mine to about 23 unloaded but i have a constant 90 hp chip and i dont have a relief valve so 25 doesnt sound that bad unless with ts chips it is suppossed to be higher
 
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:29 PM
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EGT's were right about 900-1000*, although i didnt have too close of an eye on it. i find it very hard to get EGT's over 1050. pulling a hill in OD about 55mph i could only get EGT's to 1050*, and ive never had it above 1100* EVER before. however i did glance at it once or twice while WOT. boots are clean and tight. i can tighten them up tomorrow and make another run.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Muktown
maybe your wastegate is opening letting boost escape. dont you have a relief valve in your map line? if the valves on the relief open and your tee for the boost guage is in the map line wont the guage read the same thing as the computer sees? i get mine to about 23 unloaded but i have a constant 90 hp chip and i dont have a relief valve so 25 doesnt sound that bad unless with ts chips it is suppossed to be higher
wastegate unplugged (soon to be gone) and i do have a relief valve. however i did trigger the SES light as soon as i got to 25psi, but it still held 25 and wouldn't budge. here is the routing of my relief/T in the boost line. i seperated the two (they used to be close together) and the boost gauge would jump around when the relief valve opened.

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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:37 PM
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ya i was thinking if it was close and some boost escaped it would go right past your boost guage tube
 
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
wastegate unplugged (soon to be gone) and i do have a relief valve. however i did trigger the SES light as soon as i got to 25psi, but it still held 25 and wouldn't budge.
Strokin, I know if the SES light comes on it defuels and keeps the boost around 25-26 psi. That's how mine was when I didn't have a regulator inline of the map to regulate boost. As soon as SES light came on, boost held steady around 25-26 and would not increase. With it regulated, it will just keep climbing to 30 psi. There's not much additional power up there anyway (Seat in pants feel) from the stock turbo. I have mine set at around 25-27 psi is where it stops via wastegate rod adjustment.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:48 PM
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well thanks David. it looks to me like im getting a regulator and selling the relief valve. anyone want it?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:54 PM
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do those overboost eliminators work like they say? if they do you could get rid of the relief valve and the regulator and get a true boost reading
 
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 09:00 AM
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Yes and no, a releif valve will pulsate, ex. takes 25 to open, then closes at say 20, then opens at 25, the closes, back and forth type thing. A regulator is constanly adjusting to maintain what ever the set point is. Spring diaphram tension to open or close needle valve basiscally (maybe not so basic if you don't know). Obviously, a regulator is much more desirable.

I can make 27 with my PRE99 turbo without any boost eliminators and such, it does trip the light though.

EDIT: Was looking through your gallery strokin, thought you had a wicked wheel? didn't see it listed. I wonder if the wicked or equivelent can produce a higher peak boost? Mine has essentially a wicked wheel from stock, but also has a smaller turbine inlet.
 

Last edited by cangim; Mar 26, 2006 at 09:06 AM.
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 09:10 AM
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11th mod down= wicked wheel. i wouldn't give it for the world. well maybe for a BTS but then i'd buy another one to put back in. i do want the ATS housing now, i want that screeching sound.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 12:17 PM
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Perhaps the relief valve was sticking? Mine (when I had one) would stick, especially in the cold. SES light every time. Glad to hear you're finally making the move to the regulator. I been waiting for you to finally do that.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 12:32 PM
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lookie here- http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php?overboost=1
 
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 01:11 PM
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I saw that a few months back. It all made sense to me, and that was one of the main reasons that I switched from the relief valve to a regulator. Then I did some checking here on FTE to verify their claims, and promptly ordered one the next day. That's why I've been pushing the regulator over a relief valve for someone to eliminate the overboost code.
 
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