extended cranking (explosion??)
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Littleton, Colorado
extended cranking (explosion??)
This really has me stumped. about 2 months ago, I started to experience extended cranking times prior to my truck starting. I checked all of the initial things like GPR, measured all of the glowplug resistance and voltages, checked hpop res. level etc... all to no avail. My WTS light never stays on longer than 10 seconds, (even at very low temps. 0-15 deg.) But... I did notice the following:
Its really kind of wierd, when my truck is cold and has set for some time, it will NEVER start on one cycle of my glowplugs. If I try to start it after only one gp cycle, I will crank and the engine will sound as if it doesnt even want to try to fire, but.... when I cycle the glowplugs again, I will hear like a small explosion in my exhaust, once this occures, the truck will start instantly when I crank it and I get alot of dark grey smoke puff?? Any ideas?
Its really kind of wierd, when my truck is cold and has set for some time, it will NEVER start on one cycle of my glowplugs. If I try to start it after only one gp cycle, I will crank and the engine will sound as if it doesnt even want to try to fire, but.... when I cycle the glowplugs again, I will hear like a small explosion in my exhaust, once this occures, the truck will start instantly when I crank it and I get alot of dark grey smoke puff?? Any ideas?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
i think there is still an issue with your glow plugs. how old are your batteries? i have already replace a number of customers batteries on 02 and 03 trucks. they crank the truck good and even test good but they get a little weak and don't have enought to light the glow plugs hot enough. also the WTS light has no direct relation to how long the glow plugs are actually on.
what are the temp where you are? get in your truck and turn the key on with the dome light on, when the dome light gets brighter the plugs and just turned off then crank the engine. all the things you described sound exactly like a glow plug issue or a battery issue that doesn't heat the plugs enough
what are the temp where you are? get in your truck and turn the key on with the dome light on, when the dome light gets brighter the plugs and just turned off then crank the engine. all the things you described sound exactly like a glow plug issue or a battery issue that doesn't heat the plugs enough
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From: Littleton, Colorado
Thanks tjbeggs,
I work for a battery manufacturer, and my batteries are brand new, but they are deep cycle and not starting batteries, they have slightly lower cranking amps than starting batteries, but I thought that with all of the periferal (spelling?) draws on the batts, the deep cycles might last longer. I will try some batteries that heve higher cranking amps and see if it makes a difference.
I work for a battery manufacturer, and my batteries are brand new, but they are deep cycle and not starting batteries, they have slightly lower cranking amps than starting batteries, but I thought that with all of the periferal (spelling?) draws on the batts, the deep cycles might last longer. I will try some batteries that heve higher cranking amps and see if it makes a difference.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: New Hampshire
Sounds to me like the GPR and possibly the battery/ies. In a mostly cold climate where the GP's are needed u get more degradation of the electrical relay contact plate due to arcing on contact. This creates a more resistive path which reduces heating of the GP's. More resistance means more heat buildup.
The GP cycle only lasts for 90 seconds max. If you prove your batteries are in good condition i would replace the GPR. For only $25 from NAPA it's usually the cure.
Nut
The GP cycle only lasts for 90 seconds max. If you prove your batteries are in good condition i would replace the GPR. For only $25 from NAPA it's usually the cure.
Nut
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by rmcgraw351
Thanks tjbeggs,
I work for a battery manufacturer, and my batteries are brand new, but they are deep cycle and not starting batteries, they have slightly lower cranking amps than starting batteries, but I thought that with all of the periferal (spelling?) draws on the batts, the deep cycles might last longer. I will try some batteries that heve higher cranking amps and see if it makes a difference.
I work for a battery manufacturer, and my batteries are brand new, but they are deep cycle and not starting batteries, they have slightly lower cranking amps than starting batteries, but I thought that with all of the periferal (spelling?) draws on the batts, the deep cycles might last longer. I will try some batteries that heve higher cranking amps and see if it makes a difference.
Nut
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
Likes: 3
From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
Originally Posted by PSNut
The GP cycle only lasts for 90 seconds max. If you prove your batteries are in good condition i would replace the GPR. For only $25 from NAPA it's usually the cure.
Nut
Nut
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by tjbeggs
actually nut the glow plugs will stay on for a max of 120 seconds for cold oil and cold temp. don't ahve the chart memorized though.
Nut
Last edited by PSNut; Mar 25, 2006 at 07:51 PM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
Likes: 3
From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
the chart i check at work only speaks to oil and air temps but the other may be taken into account. afterall what good are hot plugs if there isn't enough voltage to crank the engine!!!!
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Littleton, Colorado
I replaced the gpr. I measured the voltage from the gpr and the amperage, then I measured the amperage draw for each bank of glow plugs, (90 amperes), then I ohmed each glow plug, they each ohmed in spec. I know that the glow plugs stay on for a different amount of time than the wts light does, but the wts light used to stay on longer when it was cold out than it does when its warm. I have this problem if its cold or warm, it acts like a low hpop res. problem and I thought that the pre-luber would take care of that, however, this morning, I checked the hpop level and it was ok. The thing that got me was the "explosion" and then my truck would start instantly! I mean it would start within 1/2 of a revolution of the engine!?
PSNUT, check your private message
PSNUT, check your private message
Last edited by rmcgraw351; Mar 25, 2006 at 09:46 PM.