Alright, Lemme start by saying that I am not a ford guy. I usually strictly stick to toyotas and chevys. However, I found a truck the other day that has been sitting and i can pick up for 400.00. However, it has some problems. Fact:

Its a 1987 ford bronco. recent new smallblock. Carbed. Eddie Bauer. Supposedly the steering column is somehow defective. Sitting for 2.5 yrs. The lady that owns it doesn't know much about it...but she told me something about the 'computer module' something or another needs to be replaced and the steering column isn't right. Personally, I can just be the middle man and make money off the deal. However I'm wondering how hard it will be to fix this.

Questions:
What could be wrong with the steering column? How difficult is it to put another one in? would a chiltons help?

What is this 'module' or something that she speaks of? What kind of electricals are involved? Is it a computer controlled engine/or/trans? What engine is this prolly? 351? 302? My toyota has a chevy 350 so i can only speak from that experience and you essentially have a trip hot/off wire to the starter. Hot wire to the distributor in the on position. You give it a spin and it runs. Can I just rig it up this way to try to make it run at least? If I can get the truck to run and drive....(gotta make sure its good before i go diving in) then i can justify fixing the steering column. Besides that, its a damn good deal. Let me know.

 

OK, after searching a bit im guessing its either the ignition switch or the actuator rods and whatnot. I guess it sounds like i can just get this done whereever as it seems to be a common problem. Since im getting the truck so cheap I guess i'll just take it somewhere to be fixed....However...

I want to get it to run and drive so i don't have to pull it to the shop. What all do i need to run this truck? I have a switch/push button startup on my toyota that i use. Is there a way someone can tell me which wires to use? give me a little general knowledge so i know what i'm looking at. Where do i put a 'hot' wire for ignition? On a sb chevy its right at the HEI coil on the distro. Is there something like that for ford? Even if I have to go from the battery to the distro with a little wire and a screwdriver to turn it over, i'll do that. Also, do you think that the gas tank might be gunked up? Wheres the fuel filter on this truck? I think im gonna go ahead and buy this truck so everyone put your .02 in.

 

...Welcome to Ford Truck Enthusiasts!

We are happy you have chosen the best source for Fords.

Enjoy FTE....and
JOIN CLUB FTE -SUPPORT THE FORUMS!
…..See you on the boards.

 

get a haynes manual. it will help big time. i have not done this perticular fix but do a search on here and on the web for this issue. you will find lots of info on how to fix

 

I Can't Say I Follow You On What Exactly Is Wrong With The Thing But Regardless Of What It Is, For $400, Buy It! Its A Steal Especially If The Body Is In Good Shape.

 

You can turn the engine over to see if it will start. Turn the key to the on position. Open the hood and look to the left right behind the battery. All your main wires from your battery connect to a solinoid which then travel back into the truck and starter. place a screw driver on the two main big leads of the solinoid and the engine will crank.

 

First off, welcome, heathen, no just kidding... to FTE and the Big Bronco Forum. Won't hold the Toy and General Mistake against ya. Hope we can be of some assistance here.

An 87 that's still carb'ed is gonna be a 351. The 302 was fuel injected/EEC-IV computer controlled by then. The carburated models still had the Duraspark "brain" module that controlled spark timing. It was usually mounted on the driver's inner fender somewhere but early model (carb'ed) 351 owners will know exactly where it is. They were notorious for just up and quitting for the heck of it. Often it was due to overheating and sometimes leaving them to sit for an hour or two would render the module "operational" again until it overtemp'd again and it quit. The module could usually survive a dozen or so overtemp cycles before died for good. These modules are engine AND vehicle specific. On top of that, if the vehicle was originally sold in CA the module has slightly different programming which will render it useless in ANY vehicle OTHER than one shipped to CA for original sale.

The transmission, assuming its an automatic (it should be, seeing as its an EB edition) is most likely either a C6 or an AOD with the latter being the more likely.

Ditto to poffutt's suggestion if all you are trying to do is get it moved from point "A" to point "B" so it can be repaired.

 

awesome thanks guys. However, the key itself isn't working. I wanna know what wire on the column that is always hot and put it to the ignition (create the switch). Then i can short the solenoid and see if it will start. Also, those durasparks aren't by the driver near the steering column would it? Or is it definately underhood?

 

The module is definitely under the hood somewhere. Its usually a square or rectangular aluminum box with two or three round, multi-pin connectors extending from it. Its been a while since I had to mess with one of 'em but if memory serves thats what they look like.

 

duraspark is usually on the driver side fender inner wall- about 1.5" thick and a 5" # 5". you can take it out and to a napa store (or other?) to have it tested. I have an '83 that I'm working on so it should be the same if it isn't EFI. I thought they all went to EFI in '87. I did away with duraspark and the computer by buying an hei ignition for it- but I also got rid of the smog stuff as well. All you gotta do is runa hot to + on coil and short the solinoid and then see if it will run- it won't charge the battery running it that way. then you only need a key to unlock steering etc.