ebay number 8048938473.....does this fit a 54 Ford and the highway gear is 3.50.....HELP me please...should I buy it?

 

Hell no. That price is nutz. You should be able to get the rear end you need for your truck for less then $100 and try to get it as close to your house as possible since the shipping cost to much. Another thing you can do is buy one with whatever ratio it has in it for cheap then buy a kit to upgrade it to the ratio you want for cheap. Ed

 

55FordLVR - I agree that the price seems high. I bought mine out of a salvage yard (1970 Ford Pickup) for $150. The yard guaranteed the unit for 30 days for a full refund if it was not rebuildable. Mine was good enough that I just cleaned the carrier and put new seals and bearings on the axles. I did the LTD II axle swap so the bolt pattern matched my volare front clip. Good luck.
Maxx

 

55fordlover,
I think that is an extremely high price for a stock rearend. Are you looking for the original bolt pattern? if not why don't you just get an explorer rearend, there are several choices that I know of for the ration and the later models have disc brakes if that's what you want. Most salvage yards I've been to have 9" for $100-$175 and they will pull it.
Jaye

 

I wouldn't buy that 9 inch if it is out of a '57. It has the extra "rib" in the case, but this is not an indication that it is the "N" case. Given that it is out of a '57 it is a "WAR" case. The "N" case didn't come out until '64.

Here is some great reading on the Ford 9 inch.

http://www.maliburacing.com/ford_9_i..._nine_inch.htm

 

OK Gents,

I didnt get the rearend because I found a 1970 rearend for $200 and a 1957-1959 for $175 out here in el piso....the thing that bothers me is that I can't be sure its not bent until i purchase the thing...I have a friend that can check it out for me and rebuild it if its possible...I need help with this rearend thing because I am sucking at the gas pump bad.....13 gallons gone in 4 days....HELP!!!!!!!

James

 

So buy one. I probably burned 13 gallons just yesterday. Beats walking I guess.

 

Takes a lot of effort to bend a 9" rear. I'd say you're probably good to go.

 

ok gents,

After debating the issue and your help in this forum, i will purchase the 9" for $175 this week....hopefully its not in bad ship like goobzilla claims its hard to bend those things....thanks for the information 53Fatfndr....going to print it out at work and make sure i get what's right....one last thing....any specific year from 1957-1972 that i should really look for....want to be positively sure on this....the j-yard has a lot of them but no years marked....

 

I found my 69 9" 3.25 pickup rearend complete, the only thing I had to do was replace the oil, and wheel cylinders. I found it on CraigsList for $80.00, I also picked three S10 5 speed transmissions for under $75.00 each. You just have keep checking everyday and have the cash in hand when you see the item you want.

Rod 51F1

 

I just put a 9" with 3.00's from a 1971 f100 Ranger in my 55 custom Cab w/ Fordomatic. Got mine at the junk yard for $150.00 with garuantee that it would be rebuildable and he even garuanteed the drums to be usable. This is a pretty simple bolt in. Used the 55 U bolts and brackets. (It took a little bending and filing (ovaled the bracket holes out a little) to get the bolts around the newer housing and in the bracket but the spring perches were right where they needed to be. Spent another $150 on new axle bearings, seals (wheel and pinion), and gear oil. The drive shaft had to be lengthened 1 7/8".. had one made for $75.00. New U-joints $26.00. Brake parts. new brake lines. drums turned and and a couple of cans of paint another $100. In case your keepin a tab that's right around $500.00 for an almost new rear end with new bearings seals and brakes. It has 28 splined axles but those are plenty tough enough for my use and the truck really cruises on the highway at around 2500 rpm. Still have to fix the speedometer since it now says I'm going around 50 while I pass everyone on the road. BTW the original emergency brake cables clip right in where the later model cables came out.

 

Depends on what you want to do with your truck. If you were doing a daily driver I would go 3.08. This will give you lower rpm on the highway and better mileage. I used a late 80's out from under a Lincoln. Its an 8.8" with shoe brakes. 57" backing plate to backing plate which gives you 63" flange to flange. Salvage yard was $200 buck had the brackets cut off and ready for painting in less than a hour.

 

Burt280....that wasn't bad but check this out....to keep the original axles and use a Dana 44 rearend rebuilt ($465 bucks)....complete....now what you did wasnt too bad either depending on all the stuff....i think i don't want to bother with the d-shaft since i had to get it shortened for the AOD....lots of options and only $$$$ can determine the outcome days...that is why we call them projects and watch them total up over years...I will see what my rear-end specialist here in el paso recommends for me......

 

Good idea to check with the people that know. That's part of what is so good about this forum. Good luck with whatever you decide. I got an estimate of $650.00 to $750.00 (depending on what might be found during tear down) to rebuild the Dana with a beter gear ratio. The 9" was the best route for me and I got wider rear brakes in the swap. The 3.00s are a real improvement over the original 3.92s at highway speeds. Should save me a bundle in gas when I drive it to Supernationals in May.

 

Im located in El Paso and looking to shorten my rear end. I dont know if you can list it here but you can also e-mail me.... what company did you use to shorten yours and how much did they charge?