Girlfriend's car...
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 542
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From: Milpitas, CA; Tyler, TX
Girlfriend's car...
My girlfriend's car is acting up (again) and I just got a chance to drive it. Car is a '96 Chrysler Sebring, 2.5l V6, 4-speed auto, 93k miles.
First problem: It has a bumpy, almost lopey idle and stumbles when entering into the throttle. Also, when you start the car, it hits 2000rpm momentarily. The gas mileage is in the 17mpg combined range even when taking it easy. I'm thinking vacuum leak?
Second problem: There's an annoying scraping sound coming from the drivers' rear wheel. Seems to get faster or slower according to speed. She says she "just got the brakes done" (I guess that means just brake pads?), so I was thinking a warped brake rotor. But, it seems to cease when in a left turn, and diminishes 65-75% when in a right turn. This threw me for a loop. Still probably a warped brake rotor?
Can anybody double-check my brief impressions and diagnoses?
First problem: It has a bumpy, almost lopey idle and stumbles when entering into the throttle. Also, when you start the car, it hits 2000rpm momentarily. The gas mileage is in the 17mpg combined range even when taking it easy. I'm thinking vacuum leak?
Second problem: There's an annoying scraping sound coming from the drivers' rear wheel. Seems to get faster or slower according to speed. She says she "just got the brakes done" (I guess that means just brake pads?), so I was thinking a warped brake rotor. But, it seems to cease when in a left turn, and diminishes 65-75% when in a right turn. This threw me for a loop. Still probably a warped brake rotor?
Can anybody double-check my brief impressions and diagnoses?
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 59
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From: Columbus, OH
I don't know about the idle, but I'm thinking that the scraping sound could be a bad wheel bearing. Especially since the sound changes depending on the direction of the turn.
I'm no mechanic though--I'm sure many other will chime in!
I'm no mechanic though--I'm sure many other will chime in!
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: central TX
If there is no CEL it could be a clogged IAC motor. It may not be the problem, but it's a good easy/cheap place to start, pretty common, and probably needs done anyway. I'm not very familiar with these engines, but it's somewhere on the throttle body. Take it out and clean it (and the hole it sits in) with throttle body cleaner and maybe Q-tips. Be careful not to turn the plunger. It might just need a new one (also pretty cheap).
As for the scraping sound, could be a pebble stuck in it somewhere, could be a loose pad or a bearing going south. I'd take it back to the place that did the work and have them check it out (for free).
As for the scraping sound, could be a pebble stuck in it somewhere, could be a loose pad or a bearing going south. I'd take it back to the place that did the work and have them check it out (for free).
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Milpitas, CA; Tyler, TX
tdister, I'm a pre-emissions engine guy...what are CEL and IAC?
I don't have a code reader because of that, so I haven't checked for codes. Seems to me the symptoms could still be diagnosed without all that computer mumbo-jumbo though...
I don't have a code reader because of that, so I haven't checked for codes. Seems to me the symptoms could still be diagnosed without all that computer mumbo-jumbo though...
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Milpitas, CA; Tyler, TX
Ah...sounds good. Thanks.
For what it's worth, the Check engine light goes on and off intermittantly, according to her. It'll stay on for a day or two, then turn off for a week, etc.
For what it's worth, the Check engine light goes on and off intermittantly, according to her. It'll stay on for a day or two, then turn off for a week, etc.
Last edited by jcp123; Mar 24, 2006 at 01:41 PM.
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You don't need a code reader.
You just need the instructions for the on board reader.
That car does have fuel injection right ?
COMPUTER CODES
THESE ONLY WORK IF YOU HAVE FUEL INJECTION. Otherwise, see the web site or
the "troubleshooting electronic feedback carburetors" section.
Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off,
on, off, on. (On is *not* start!)
The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes Each code is a two
digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH <pause> FLASH FLASH
FLASH <loong pause>
It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!
55 is end of codes, 33 is normal if you don't have air conditioning.
When the computer indicates major failure, it will activate Limp In mode,
which guesses about data to compensate for sensor failure.
*** NOTE - NEWER VEHICLES ***
You just need the instructions for the on board reader.
That car does have fuel injection right ?
COMPUTER CODES
THESE ONLY WORK IF YOU HAVE FUEL INJECTION. Otherwise, see the web site or
the "troubleshooting electronic feedback carburetors" section.
Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off,
on, off, on. (On is *not* start!)
The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes Each code is a two
digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH <pause> FLASH FLASH
FLASH <loong pause>
It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!
55 is end of codes, 33 is normal if you don't have air conditioning.
When the computer indicates major failure, it will activate Limp In mode,
which guesses about data to compensate for sensor failure.
*** NOTE - NEWER VEHICLES ***
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