Hi Guys,

First of flet me say I have Learned alot here and I search religiously for info daily. I have a few questions tho I need some help with.


Truck : 1993 F-350 Super Cab Long Bed 7.3 Diesel I love this thing !

Can you guys give me input on a few items.

Brakes,

So far I have done the following,
Front :New Front Rotors, Pads, Calipers
Rear: Shoes, adjusters, springs, wheel cylinders parkbrake cables.
Underhood : MC, checked power unit for vacume and it holds good vacume

Problem: Petal FADE !! YUK, Solutions tried. bleed the **** outta the lines 3 times, all new fluid in system, rebled the mc on the bench and then bled the lines again, bled the ABS valve under the cab 3 times.. etc, observation : petal is fine until truck is runnign therefore i am quite confident it must be that stupid $ 168.00 ABS Valve (someone should shoot FORD for the thing.) but need to make sure.....

Suggestions?


Motor: 7.3 Diesel :

135000 miles Just a baby in my book.

Issues : Hard to start. think it may be the glow plugs but I posted that in another thread about glow plugs here . Only other issue i really see is from under the truck I see alot of oil, looks to be comming over the exhaust manifolds but haven't checked it too much yet, are these know to leak on the valve covers area alot? or maybe the head gasket area's? Any knowledge is great here as this is first shot with this truck.

Axles : make ya move

I have pulled all them, I swear the PO parked this thing in a swamp and let it sit they all look like crap. So I replaced al the U-joints and seals to keep the grease in... (checked bearings they are nice so will leave them alone). I dipped a pinky in the case oil , yeah there was a bit in it still, anyways it feels very very thin, almost like water shouldn't this stuff be a bit thicker? say 80-95 or 90-120 weight?


Well thats all for now any help you guys lend is much appreciated and keep sme going. Once she is all done I'll take a picture of her and post it. as I just bolted new eagle Alloy Wheels and KUMHO 305/70/16 on her and she is looking nice.

Thanks
Dave


Had to edit : sorry I probably posted wrong darn place.. feel free to move it.

 

Brakes:
To eliminate whether the ABS system is causing problems disconnect the main plug on the controller (black box behind the glove box) and see if that improves things. Make sure to re-connect if if does not solve the problem. Disconnecting the controller will completely dis-able the ABS system and your brake should work the way they did in the olden days when they locked-up when the pedal was applied to hard.

I have heard of guys struggling with the brake booster leaking, although I thought Ford had resolved these problems by 93'. I have not had any problems on my 93 F250.

Engine:
Cold starting problems are usually due to:
1, Bad GlowPlugs, the glow plug controllers on the 93's were pretty reliable and should be looked at secondary after all the bad glow plugs have been fixed. Always change all glow plug at the same time and use BERU/Motorcraft Brand Name Plugs only.

2, Air leaks into the fuel system. If your rubber injector return lines and o-rings have never been replaced they would have hardened in the last 13 years and are probably the cause of air leaks.

Axle:
To my knowledge it should be 90W (i.e. thick) There may be some exceptions on trucks with limited slip differentials. Not an expert on this.

 

When my master cylinder went out. i went thru 3 rebuilds in 3 days to get one that was rebuilt correctly. Found out this is a common problem (bad rebuilds). After I did mine our truck for the shop did the same thing. Our mechanics went thru 5 rebuilds and was getting pretty hot over it. But it was the rebuilds that was not made correctly. Keep trying. I found when i got one I went with one with a warranty. No questions asked - they just exchanged.

Probably the valve covers either need torque or new gaskets. try torquing first. Pain to change gaskets. have to remove fuel lines..

 

Can anyone Help me i am buying the glow plugs are they

Motorcraft ZD9

fro the 1993 7.3 Non turbo Diesel ??

Thanks Guys

 

yup, should be the ZD9's. they are $9.99 at autozone.
one more point on the brakes. rebuilt master cylinders are not worth the aggravation to save a few bucks. when i used to pull wrenches, i would go through 4-5 rebuilt masters to find a good one. i now only use new. do it once, and forget it.

 

our problem was nobody had new - only rebuilds.

 

Guys,

I replaced all the glow plugs WTS Light lights for about 20 seconds then off truck starts almost instantly.

is 20 seconds good WTS light time?

Still working on brakes darn things i bed the heck outta them but still petal goes to floor slowly. I unplugged the black box with no change in the petal so it must still have some air in the lines.. I'm going back to bleed some more with the vacume bleeder. Hope it clears up soon need ot ge tthe inspection sticker so I can drive this baby.

the master Cyl is a cardone reman and they state "better than OEM new after thier rebuild" but hey never know got a warranty on it so i can take it back and get another if it don't clear up tonight.

Dave

 

Before you install the master cylinder fill it with fluid and pump it out to remove all the metal filings left inside the unit.

I had one starting to leak down at a stop light on a hill.
So I replaced it.
Drove 40 miles and had less brakes than I did before I replaced it.
The next one I flushed out with brake fluid before I installed it.
Pumped the fluid into a cup and was shocked to see how much metal particles there were in the cup.

The filings were just cutting the seals to pieces.
No quality control exists anymore.

 

Dave,

I did pump it quite a bit before i installed it didn't check what came out tho. Maybe I'll pull it back off and bleed it again on the bench see what happens.


Thanks
Dave

 

yea, 20 seconds is about rite for the glo circuit. if the pedal is slowly going to the floor, the master is fubar. air in the system will give you a low pedal, but it will get higher as you pump it and stay up.
after the quality of rebuilt masters went into the dump about 15 years ago, i will only buy new masters now.

 

Thanks for the WTS Light info. I will actually time it but it seems to be about 20 seconds.

Brakes Well I pulled master cyl off again.. put it on the bench capped it off and applied pressure it does not go down under pressure so it has to be something else.. Matter of fac tit is hard as a rock.

What about the nice valve that screws into the side of the master cyl on the rear outlet ? i believe it is a regulator valve.. Any exp with this thing ? should I replace it?

At this point I have replaced everythign with exception of the LINES and that ABS vavle on the frame. i went to old version of bleeding brakes as I was by myself last night working on this I filled a bottle with fluid and then rubber hose from bleeder fitting into bottle then opened and pumped the brakes slowly.

Seems to be better but not 100% still has some fade makes no sense. I cant get a new MC around here.. I am almost positive it's not the MC but I might be wrong.

What method are most of you using to bleed the brakes and do you follow FORDS recoomendation on the procedure? IE: RR - LR - ABS Valve - RF - LF ??

Tonight is another attempt at finishing this project so I can drive this baby

One more thing I was amazed tonight I pulled every GLOW PLUG none were swelled or hard to get out. !! I was praying the entire time that they would come out after some horror stories i read about them broken off. Anyways i did notice that some seemed harder to pull out maybe carbon buildup in the port area?

I am seriously considering pulling the heads and such, I want to put all new gaskets in the motor as it leaks Oil... Advise welcome on this subject.. the motor seems to run very good but I like to know what i have and I really don't like oil leaks. Any Pro's / Con's pulling motor and re-gasketing it??

Dave

 

It's probably the vaccum booster giving fits. You can do most work on the engine in the frame except the stuff under the engine. I've pulled heads, did IP and other things all in frame with no problem. Best if you have a cherry picker to lift heads if you go that far (very heavy).

 

Got a full shop to work in so cherry picker not a problem. Pays to have friends that run garage and build race cars with.

Is it possible to pull the bototm pan with it in the frame? to replace rear seals and pan gasket?

thanks
Dave

 

yes--you can pull the pan--and do the pan gasket-bearings-- oil pump--but--you have to pull the trans to replace the rear main--its one piece---

 

Thanks for the tip on the rear main,


I will probably do it all I don't like leaks and I don't like oil on the frame rails and such becuase it make s it hard to see when somethign new might be leaking.



Here is a pic not the best but not a bad looking truck just put the wheels and tires on it. haven't even drove it but from the outside to the indise of the shop a few times.


You guys are alot of help thanks !

Dave