I just entered a rental agreement on some commercial property for my small business. The building (used loosely) is a burned out building about 4 foot off the ground, concrete foundation and slab. All the burned out stuff is long gone (cleaned up). The ramp into it is another post.

I need to build a relatively inexpensive wall for this place. The wall is 12 foot high and about 30 feet long. I'm thinking 6" metal studs with pole barn type metal siding. I thinking metal studs for fire ratings, and insurance issues. Will end up adding in a 36" entry door later. The roof may end up being wood trusses, but don't know that. Anybody have commercial building experience?

 

Have you looked into any of the pre-engineered buildings? They can be relatively inexpensive as well as well built.

Also, are you under any restrictions from the local building department? They may have some limits on what you can do. Might be worth talking to them first.

 

First check with local building inspector for requirements, Is it a block wall? Heat doesn't help it. It sounds like you will be building on a slab. If so, like nitramjr says a pre-engineered building might be best, and you can always remove it later if you have to. Metal studs are ok but, for attaching the siding you would need to put in purlins. Ramp-wise, block with wire,lot of fill and 6" of concrete.

 

I'm sure the local code enforcement will be in close touch. I took some pictures this morning. I'll post them tonight and let you see what I mean. A new metal building would be great, but I'm not sure it would be cost effective in my case. I already have 2 1/2 walls done. They're not great, but at least they're stout.

 

If it's a rental do what's the cheapest and will still serve your needs. You are improving someone else's property.

 

how big of a building do you need? what do you need it for?
Maye you could get by with a trailer or a renovated mobile home? Perhaps an old semi van trailer?

 

If the trusses will be sitting on this new wall, the wall now becomes 'load bearing', and you may not have much of a choice in its construction with regards to code compliance.

 

You all make very good point's, I'll try to address them all.

GLR - I missed your point of heat you made earlier, I'll look into it. He's got another building there that he's already put an end wall on. That one is built very similar to a pole barn, with 2x6 studs and purlins, metal on that. It looks like it would very good for wall. I spoke with the owner again today about the ramp and his idea is just like yours - block wall with fill and concrete. Might be how we go. My concern is a footer and frost heave - typical footers here are 4 foot below grade, but thats seems like overkill for this application to me.

saftman - The owner will be supplying most of the money for major construction, but I have to keep it inexpensive because my rent will be adjusted accordingly. Interior features are up to me to provide. It's just wasted space now, he claims he's got no reason to build without a tenant (I don't necessarily agree with him on that - but that's OK).

Fordzlla - That's part of the problem, I don't have any commercial property, and what I'm doing "just ain't right" in my pretty nice neighborhood. I own a Snow Plowing company with 3-4 plow trucks, large salt spreaders, and plan to buy or rent a loader for the winter. Need a place to store bulk salt. In addition, we race cars in the summer, and am restoring an old truck. I just have way too much stuff. I live on a pretty small lot. Not all my equipment is here as I've been sucessful begging storage areas for it, but again, 'it just aint right.'

RocketScience - good point. I should have stated sooner, the wall in question is not a load bearing wall.

 

I just posted up another gallery.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=21245
The second pic is where I need to build this wall - along the race car chassis.

 

Were the previous trusses supported on the metal rails and post? The remaining block looks like the paint was not singed so not so much heat. I would go with 2x6 studs and purlins. You might have to line the interior with a fire wall (for shop requirement depending upon bldg insp and insurance regs.) Are you going to repair the whole building (2 walls) or just go to where the existing walls are, near where the car on trailer is and across. I would do the whole thing. Don't forget Treated wood for the sill or where it makes contact with block wall. I get you on rent adjustment, I know a guy who fixed the place up so nice the owner raised the rent so much it forced him out of the building.

 

I would tear down and replace with a prefab metal buiding. I don't think you will save much by keeping the block walls.

 

The previous roof was a flat, and the trusses (or whatever they're called) was not supported on the matel rails, those are for a trolly(?) type hiost. The entire area will be covered. I am somewhat concerned about the rent thing - going up too much. We need to sit down and get the lease terms finalized. Right now, I got a open invitation to build what I want - but we need to come up with estimates before we can agree on what to do...

xrayford - I hear you on the tear down, as it would make it alot better. I just don't have the budget to rent a new building right now. Once we get estimates it should be pretty clear on what way to go. I'm affraid to find out what a mason gives us for a price to rebuild that front wall. We'll see.

Thanks for the help thinking this through.

 

not load bearing (roof, wind, etc.) not exposed to elements: metal studs and drywall...cheapest option and fire rated.

 

There would be no problem with either wood or metal, the biggest thing about going to metal is you will need an engineer to draw something up for you and stamp it so that the inspector will accept. If you go with wood you won't need the engineering part since all bldg inspectors know what wood studs will do. Also a wood stud is better fire wise since a metal stud unprotected will lose structural integrity a very short amount of time. If you plan on doing the work yourself go with metal since they are alot easier to work with. If you need more info P.M. me I have 15 yrs in commercial const exp.