Is there a way to adjust the pull on the parking brake without removing the console? With only 32k miles on the clock the e-brake pulls to the stop but isn't tight enough to keep the car from rolling when parked. The brakes are still good. With only 32k on them I will need to replace teh front in the next 10k or so. But the rear should be good. I have never driven off with the brake on and I don't think my wife has either. I looked under the car yesterday to see if I could adjust the tension on the cable but there isn't any adjustment thread or points. The only way I can see to do it is if there is a adjustment point on the handle, but that is in the console and I don't want to take it apart if there is a better way of doing it.


Anyone have to do this yet?

 

Use a deep well 10mm socket. You might not have to take it apart to get to the adjustment. Taking the whole console out is a 10 minute job, though.

 

Does your vehicle have drum brakes in the rear? The rear brake shoe self-adjusters are actuated by the hand brake. If you seldom use your hand brake, the shoes may have too much clearance, causing the hand brake to run out of travel. You could try setting and releasing the hand brake several (many?) times to adjust the rear brakes to see if that helps. Otherwise, the shoes can be adjusted by accessing the adjustment star wheel through a port in the backing plate until the brakes drag slightly and then backing it off a bit. Unless your hand brake cable has stretched, it shouldn't need adjusting.

 

same problem on an 01 escape with 75k on the odo.

NO tension in the e-brake handle and the light is lit in the dash

cable looks ok from a glance

can adjusting the rear brakes like described above bring back the e-brake?

 

The rear brakes should be checked for adjustment before adjusting the cable. Once they're set properly, there may be no need to adjust the hand brake cable. I notice on my Escape, if I don't use the handbrake often enough, the pedal feels a little lower when the brakes are applied.

At 75,000 miles, the linings should probably be checked for wear before adjusting them.

The brake warning light turning on can also indicate low fluid in the master cylinder reservoir, so that needs to be checked also. As the front pads wear, the brake pad pistons expand further and require more fluid. If the rear brakes are out of adjustment, the slave cylinders will require more fluid also.

 

The car has 31-32K miles on it and I have not adjusted the rear brakes at all. I know that on most new cars the have "self adjusting" rear brakes. By backing up and pumping the brakes the accuator (wheel, screw) will ratchet and "adjust the brake shoes". I don't have a problem with the brakes, it's the parking brake cable is too loose. Since the car is a stick I use the brake each time I park the car. The light on the dash for the brake comes on when the handle is pulled but the chime (noise) comes on intermittantly,( some time it chimes sometimes it won't). I don't think they are related.

 

I use my parking brake every time I stop and still had to adjust the cable. It does stretch. Backing up and hitting the brakes will adjust the rear shoes, no need to turn any ster wheel

 

The rear drum adjusters in the Escape are actuated by setting the parking brake, not by backing up. If you don't believe me, check the Ford shop manual or the Haynes Escape manual.