I need some help!

I finally got around to getting my exhaust manifolds off. All the bolts that weren't already snapped off came out fairly easily, as I have applied PB blaster to them 3 or 4 times in the last month. However, when I got the driver's side manifold off, I found that the one bolt that was snapped by the PO is snapped off flush with the head so I can't get a grip on it anywhere. The problem is that I can't seem to get a drill bit on it either as it is on the number 7 cylinder and the power steering unit is in the way.

I have tried one of those flexible attachments for my drill, but that has not workewd either, still not enough room to get a straight shot at the bolt. I took the valve cover off thinking I could feed the flex attachment by the springs, but even if I did that, the angle is still wrong.

I might be able to get to it if I take the power steering lines off the unit, or I might need to take the cover off as well. I've never taken one of these apart, is there anything special I should know about taking it apart? Will I need gaskets?

If that doesn't work, it looks to me like my only choices are to remove the power steering, which looks like a b*tch, or worse, raising the engine. Any body have a suggestion?

 

Hey 76
I know that you probably dont want to hear this, but the only real way to get that bolt out of the head is to pull the head itself and either drill the bolt out and helicoil it OR try an EZ-out. Compounding matters is the fact that the bolt is on the #7 cylinder. I feel your pain because I am going through this currently. I finally got fed up with that annoying exhaust leak and I just pulled the heads to properly fix them. At best, doing it this way will cost you a gasket set (~~80.00 complete set) and a bunch of your time. Once you have the heads off, you can even try welding a small bolt to the broken stump in the head and try to get it out that way. In any event, while the heads are off, I would recommend a good cleaning and replacement of the umbrella seals (they are included in the gasket set) Trying to get the bolt out any other way short of pulling the head will most likely result in frustration and potential personal injury OR damage to other components! However, this is my .02 worth!
GOOD LUCK
regards
Ben

 

Oh man, are you ever right, I don't want to hear that. If I take the head off, I'm gonna want to rebuild the damn thing, which means doing them both, and I was planning on the engine running for awhile longer before I had to get into it.

 

Ben's .02 worth of thought is probably your best bet. I have pulled a head for the same reason. Before I started I had everthing bought and ready to go. Started after lunch, took my time to do a good job, and was back on the road before dinner.

Greg
71' F250,4X4 460ci-NP435
43 ****** MB204109 289ci

 

Here is a method I have used many times and it works well when the bolt is broke off in a large cast iron part.Take a cutting torch and heat the bolt until red then blow it out with oxygen.You will not hurt the head.The bolt heats much faster than the head.You will want
to run A tap in the threads to clean the slag out.


Larry

 

You said broke off flush with the head.

Here is what I would do. Get a narrow head 3/8 angle drill. Put a 1/8" drill bit into the drill backwards, measure up 1/4, mark it, take it out, put it into a vise, clamp on the non-flute end, and cut off with a hacksaw. Score around in a circle so it does not shatter.

Sand the remaining flute end so there are no burs and sharp edges to mess up your drill rollers. Now put the remaining bit/flute into the drill. You now have enough space to start drilling. Keep stepping up in length and size until your are ready to put in a left handy drill bit and take it out in reverse.

Remember, once you have a hole started, you have enough room to get the bit in there at an angle to then straighten out the bit before you start drilling. You only have to go aout 3/8 deep if you are using an easy out.

Remember, you can loosen the bolts on the motor and transmission mounts and jack it up just an inch to get more space. You might find it easier to drill from underneath (with eye protection). If you have a dremel flex you can also go in from the fender well or remove the fender altogether.

 

the fun begins
i had the same problem only with a 460 in a 69 f100...even less room
i pulled the fender and inner fender, unhooked the hose to the ps unit and used a 90 Degree drill to remove the stud. it worked quite well and was much easier than pulling a head
good luck...just dont get in a hurry and force things..take your time and it will come out

 

>Here is a method I have used many times and it works well
>when the bolt is broke off in a large cast iron part.Take a
>cutting torch and heat the bolt until red then blow it out
>with oxygen.You will not hurt the head.The bolt heats much
>faster than the head.You will want
> to run A tap in the threads to clean the slag out.
>
>
>Larry


Now there is a solution that I hadn't thought of - I'm adding that to my list of possibilities, although I would have to borrow or rent a cutting touch.....

It pays to ask the experts - thanks!

 

>You said broke off flush with the head.
>
>Here is what I would do. Get a narrow head 3/8 angle drill.
>Put a 1/8" drill bit into the drill backwards, measure up
>1/4, mark it, take it out, put it into a vise, clamp on the
>non-flute end, and cut off with a hacksaw. Score around in a
>circle so it does not shatter.
>
>Sand the remaining flute end so there are no burs and sharp
>edges to mess up your drill rollers. Now put the remaining
>bit/flute into the drill. You now have enough space to start
>drilling. Keep stepping up in length and size until your are
>ready to put in a left handy drill bit and take it out in
>reverse.
>
>Remember, once you have a hole started, you have enough room
>to get the bit in there at an angle to then straighten out
>the bit before you start drilling. You only have to go aout
>3/8 deep if you are using an easy out.
>
>Remember, you can loosen the bolts on the motor and
>transmission mounts and jack it up just an inch to get more
>space. You might find it easier to drill from underneath
>(with eye protection). If you have a dremel flex you can
>also go in from the fender well or remove the fender
>altogether.
>
>
>

I drove over to my Dad's place today (couple of hours one way) to sandblast the manifolds, valve covers, and air filter housing. On the way back I thought of something similar. My flex attachment for my drill has the quick release type end, so it will only accept bits with the quick release base. I thought I would cut a bit short (good tip about scoring it) and sharpen the cut end in a Drill Doctor - I have a neighbor that has one and he sasys it will sharpen a broken bit. That might give me enough clearance to get the hole for the EZ out started.. I had also thought about loosening up the motor and tranny mounts and jacking them up.

I really appreciate you guys taking the time to help me out with this.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-11-03 AT 10:56 PM (EST)]Ok, this may just have taken an ugly turn. I pulled the valve covers and as I was looking at the springs, etc. I noticed that the valve cover gasket mating surface (on the intake manifold side) by one of the pushrods on the number 7 cylinder is blackened, like the paint has been burned off in a 2 to 3 inch area. Just below, on top of the head and down into the pushrod hole, I have a crusty, black deposit, kind of like cooked oil, or carbon build up. This doesn't exist anywhere else in this head, but does exist on the other side of the engine, by the number 2 cylinder. Do I have a couple of exhaust valves that aren't seating?

I'm also wondering if this isn't why the exhaust manifold on the driver's side is cracked between number and number 7 cylinders. Could an exhaust valve not closing cause enough heat to warp the exhaust manifold to the point that it would break a bolt and crack the manifold? The other manifold is not cracked.

I suppose I could go buy a compression gauge, but at this point, I have the exhaust manifolds off, I cannot warm the engine up before doing the compression test.

If this is burned valves, I will probably go ahead and get the heads rebuilt, it just may take awhile before I can afford it.

 

The "burned oil" looking stuff is just that, oil that has got hot repeatedly from the heat riser passages (heat from the head flows thru the intake, under the carb, and back to the other head). There is no cause for alarm at this condition. A cold compression test is better then none at all (it should show if you have a burned vale--extremely low reading) A compression test is always a good thing to do when getting a truck--it gives you a baseline to refer to later.

The left exhaust manifold cracking is a common problem on fe's, it is a design defect (the casting is the thinnest at that point), New manifolds are available for about $100, call a light truck recycler that deals in new parts also for availability in your area.

I have had excellent results using copper exhaust gaskets ($40-and reuseable). They outlast the stock steel and replacement composite gaskets, also the soft copper will seal irregular surfaces.

I have over 150,000 working miles on my stock exhaust system (upgraded to a heavy duty 2 1/2 inch welded steel truck muffler) with no problems.

Hope this answered your questions--Mike

 

>The "burned oil" looking stuff is just that, oil that has
>got hot repeatedly from the heat riser passages (heat from
>the head flows thru the intake, under the carb, and back to
>the other head). There is no cause for alarm at this
>condition. A cold compression test is better then none at
>all (it should show if you have a burned vale--extremely low
>reading) A compression test is always a good thing to do
>when getting a truck--it gives you a baseline to refer to
>later.
>
>The left exhaust manifold cracking is a common problem on
>fe's, it is a design defect (the casting is the thinnest at
>that point), New manifolds are available for about $100,
>call a light truck recycler that deals in new parts also for
>availability in your area.
>
>I have had excellent results using copper exhaust gaskets
>($40-and reuseable). They outlast the stock steel and
>replacement composite gaskets, also the soft copper will
>seal irregular surfaces.
>
>I have over 150,000 working miles on my stock exhaust system
>(upgraded to a heavy duty 2 1/2 inch welded steel truck
>muffler) with no problems.
>
>Hope this answered your questions--Mike


Mike,

This is very good news. I had totally ignored the possibility that this could be caused by the heat riser passages. The number 2 / 7 cylinder thing did give me pause when I looked at it, and should have tipped me off, but being something less than an expert on these engines (or any engine, for that matter) I missed it.

I have sandblasted the manifiolds and am taking them to the machine shop to see if they can weld the crack, and resurface them to correct any warpage.

Appreciate the tip on the copper gaskets.

Thanks for your help.

 

On my FE the heads have an ear that sticks up above each top exhaust bolt. For top snapped bolts with headers, I temporarily fixed mine by clamping a small C-clamp on each ear above the broken bolt and header flange. Lasted for 10 years with no leaks until I was ready to rebuild the motor.

 

>On my FE the heads have an ear that sticks up above each top
>exhaust bolt. For top snapped bolts with headers, I
>temporarily fixed mine by clamping a small C-clamp on each
>ear above the broken bolt and header flange. Lasted for 10
>years with no leaks until I was ready to rebuild the motor.

I'm envisioning headers with 4 c-clamps across the top -
Might provide a good way to route plug wires...

 

> Lasted for 10 years with no leaks until I was ready to
> rebuild the motor.

Only on a Ford FE can you wait ten years to rebuild the motor while you drive it