Brake failure troubleshoot
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Brake failure troubleshoot
I have a 1994 Ranger SuperCab 4.0 V6 manual transmission. I went to start my truck and the brake pedal went to the floor with little resistance. I started the truck and the brakes do not work. I have to apply the parking brake to stop the vehicle. I checked all lines and found to visible fluid leaks. I bled the master cylinder and brakes per my Haynes Repair manual. However, when I attempted to bleed the rear brakes no fluid was released during the process. When finished still no brakes and pedal goes to the floor. Also when I depress the brake pedal the fuild in the master cylinder resevoir bubbles. I want to repair the vehicle myself to save $. Any suggestion are greatly appreciated.
Last edited by dkrolak; Mar 19, 2006 at 08:57 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
From: SE Michigan
Sounds like the master cylinder has gone bad and is bypassing fluid internally. Master cylinders aren't too bad to do. Mostly a lot of bleeding to get all the air out of all the lines. A new one can also tell you if some of your brakes are not working correctly too, like rear wheel cylinders that won't work well when you push on the pedal.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Welcome to FTE dkrolak.
I agree, sounds like the brake master cylinder has gone belly up.
The reman master cylinder I used in my old Zypher had a "bench bleed kit" with it, so I could put fluid in it & pump the air out as it recycled the fluid back into the reservoir, as you pushed the piston. This "bench bleed" routine you do before you reconnect the brake lines to the master cyinder.
It'll save a lot of time bleeding the brake system & you sure don't want to get air into the ABS motor, cause you'll likely end up at the Dealer to have the system vacuum pumped, to get it all out!!!!
Keep us posted on what you find.
I agree, sounds like the brake master cylinder has gone belly up.
The reman master cylinder I used in my old Zypher had a "bench bleed kit" with it, so I could put fluid in it & pump the air out as it recycled the fluid back into the reservoir, as you pushed the piston. This "bench bleed" routine you do before you reconnect the brake lines to the master cyinder.
It'll save a lot of time bleeding the brake system & you sure don't want to get air into the ABS motor, cause you'll likely end up at the Dealer to have the system vacuum pumped, to get it all out!!!!
Keep us posted on what you find.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Why no fluid when bled rear brakes?
Thanks for the advice. I swapped out the master cylinder and bled the system and the brakes worked when I road tested the vehicle. The action on the brake pedal is firm and has little travel. However, I am not quite sure everything is ok because when I bled the rear wheels I did not get any fluid. The front brakes bled well. Why no fluid from the rears?. . I am worried that only the front brakes are working? Do I pull the rear wheels to see if the rears are working?
This forum is a great resource. Thanks for the help.
This forum is a great resource. Thanks for the help.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Well you could raise the rear wheels & see if you can stop the wheels rotation with the brakes.
Not getting fluid from the wheel cylinders isn't normal, but may be because they're bleed hole is rusted up.
Did the bleed fittings have the rubber cover caps to keep water & debris out???? If not, open the bleed fitting & try using a small piece of wire to oen it up so the wheel cylinders can be completely purged with new fluid.
Be sure to use a box end wrench on the fitting & pump enough fluid out to completely recharge the wheel cylinders with new fluid.
Keep a check on the mastercylinders fluid level & keep it topped off. Don't let it get so low as to suck air in while bleeding the wheel cylinders.
Not getting fluid from the wheel cylinders isn't normal, but may be because they're bleed hole is rusted up.
Did the bleed fittings have the rubber cover caps to keep water & debris out???? If not, open the bleed fitting & try using a small piece of wire to oen it up so the wheel cylinders can be completely purged with new fluid.
Be sure to use a box end wrench on the fitting & pump enough fluid out to completely recharge the wheel cylinders with new fluid.
Keep a check on the mastercylinders fluid level & keep it topped off. Don't let it get so low as to suck air in while bleeding the wheel cylinders.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Why no fluid when bleeding rear brakes
Thanks for the earlier advice. The brake master cylinder had gone bad. I swapped out the master cylinder and bled the system and the brakes worked when I road tested the vehicle. The action on the brake pedal is firm and has little travel. However, I am not quite sure everything is ok because when I bled the rear wheels I did not get any fluid. The front brakes bled well. Why no fluid from the rears?. . I am worried that only the front brakes are working? Do I pull the rear wheels to see if the rears are working? Should'nt the rear brakes expel fluid when bled?
Vehicle: 94 Ranger 2wd v6 4.0 L Rear Anti Lock Brakes
This forum is a great resource. Thanks for the help
Vehicle: 94 Ranger 2wd v6 4.0 L Rear Anti Lock Brakes
This forum is a great resource. Thanks for the help
Trending Topics
The Pacifier
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,245
Likes: 7
From: Cloverdale, BC
Just jack the rear end off the ground, and spin the tire, while someone else applies the brake. That should tell you if you're getting any rear braking. If you take the drum off, and hit the brake, well, you'll run into problems with the brake cylinder overextending and you'll have brake fluid all over the place. Not to mention you will have to replace your brake cylinders.
What I do is a gravity bleed until fluid starts to come out, then do a pressure bleed. That works for me 99% of the time.
Edit: Just have to make sure you got the correct master cylinder? And the fluid was topped up in both reservoirs? And when you bled the brakes, you did the rears first?
I didn't check to see your previous problems, so I want to make sure you got your bases covered.
Something else, just as a side note, and I'm sure you already know this, but a bleeder doesn't just crack to bleed, you may have to turn it a bit more to get anything.
Or maybe check for a kink in the line going to the rear brakes.
What I do is a gravity bleed until fluid starts to come out, then do a pressure bleed. That works for me 99% of the time.
Edit: Just have to make sure you got the correct master cylinder? And the fluid was topped up in both reservoirs? And when you bled the brakes, you did the rears first?
I didn't check to see your previous problems, so I want to make sure you got your bases covered.
Something else, just as a side note, and I'm sure you already know this, but a bleeder doesn't just crack to bleed, you may have to turn it a bit more to get anything.
Or maybe check for a kink in the line going to the rear brakes.
Last edited by bigrigfixer; Mar 21, 2006 at 02:53 PM.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I loosened the supply line that goes in the rear wheel and pumped the brakes. Still no fluid. Could the problem be at the RABS porportional valve. When I bled it , per my Haynes manual, I also got no fluid. I''ll check for kinks in the line.
Thanks for you help.
Thanks for you help.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CollinsCD
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
26
Dec 27, 2013 02:10 PM
antitorque
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
6
Jan 9, 2004 12:47 AM
olgreymare
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Oct 14, 2001 02:38 PM
Bob in ND
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Jun 21, 1999 05:10 PM
