I know it has been recomended by many to run a second or bypass oil fiter. Which ones are recomended? I found one made by Amsoil but it is around $250? Any others out there?

 

My question is one in the same, but I have been thinking of a Baldwin base and filter set-up. Is anyone running this set-up? And how do you like it?

 

I personally use the Motorguard filters. They use toilet paper rolls for the filter element. Real popular with the military and have been around since the sixtys.No problems.
http://www.bypassfilter.com/
i found a lot of positive info on them in this forum:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
Nut

 

Check out Oil Guard, one of our sponsors.. their link is at the top of the forum page.. I like mine and it was easy to install and the price is reasonable...

 

I have the Amsoil dual by-pass filter. Great piece.

 

The best thing about a bypass filter is that - since it is NOT directly supplying oil to the engine - it can filter particles out of the oil down to 2microns (maybe smaller). I recall reading that a flow-through filter can only take out down to about 40microns. So the bypass filter is setup to take a small amount of oil and remove virtually ALL the crap from it, then return it to the sump.

Your oil doesn't get dirty. However, the additives still get used up, so you still need to change the oil - just not as often. This allows you to run, excellent quality, expensive synthetic oil, and change it very infrequently (provided you have someone test your oil regularly so you can keep an eye on when it needs to be changed).

Done right, you SAVE money compared to not having a bypass filter, your engine always has cleaner oil and it gets lubricated better. Except for the initial $$ outlay, it is win-win-win.

I've done enough research. This is my next mod - well, AFTER I put on the ATS housing and the coolant filter... I have them and just haven't had time.

 

Run a bypass, not a second additional full flow. My vote is for the Oil Guard. See my gallery for some pics of it.

Arnie, you've got quite a few goodies waiting for an install. You've got more patience than I would have.

 

And you can believe that. Looking at that gallery, I think JT would filter his differential fluids if he could figure out how to do it, or maybe he has. LOL Not trying to start anything JT, but you've definitley got the filter thing covered.

 

No. You're right. If they had a pump in them, they'd be filtered too.

 

Jtharvey, It isn't patience, it is necessity. I've been working 60 hour weeks, and trying to get some work done around the house (new eave facia, paint, etc) and NOW it is tax time... And I'm exhausted.

All I really want to do is take a week off, and spend it 1) putting all the lovely goodies on my truck that are sitting in boxes, and 2) FINALLY install the last bits necessary for my clattery old BMW to run better than it ever has, but really what stock should have been (high compression pistons, big valves, big carbs, balanced, lightened wrist pins, dual-plug heads, light alloy pushrods, CCd chambers - and just a smidge of porting for good measure). I'm not 'hot-rodding' it, per se - stock pre-smog was rated at 70hp at the crank, and if I get 75 I'd be surprised. Nearly all the components, from the big valve heads to the 40mm carbs, are stock - just not from the year my bike was made!

Then I put them together with a bit more care than the factory did (my piston/ring/rod assemblies were almost 6 grams out of balance - doesn't sound like much, but for a 2-cylinder engine, it makes a BIG vibration difference). By balancing the piston assemblies and CC'ing the combustion chambers, it won't make more power, but will run much smoother and sweeter than possible before. And dual spark plugs SHOULD have been utilized by the factory - hell, the heads look like they were made for them.

Okay, the wrist pins and push rods aren't stock, but all they will do is let it rev a bit smoother by reducing reciprocating weight. Well, no the stainless steel valves aren't stock either - but they are the stock diameter. They just have a bit better shape. No, I guess the exhaust isn't stock, either. It just looks stock...

Okay, fine. It isn't stock - but it's not like I put a Jody Tipton chip in it! ....if only I could...

 

Rampage,

I use the Baldwin base and B-164's with good results according to Blackstone. A whole pictoral is in my gallery on mounting it all.

Baldwin has the best, long-term reputation in the heavy-duty diesel engine oil filtration business as far as I'm concerned. Ask the OTR guys. Baldwin, Fleetguard, and Luberfiner are the names that come up first with them.

It's a trust thing. They haven't let me down in the last 45 years.

Pop

 

Thanks guys for the help.

 

jtharvey- I was thinking you could use the temperature port on the Mag-Hytec rear diff cover to rig up an electric pump hooked up to one of your external filters for filtering the rear diff fluid ?

 

I know there's definately ways to do it. I just don't think I've quite reached that point yet.

 

We're filter crazy!!