HAs anyone cahanged the front pivot bushings? If so, can it be done without tearing the whole front end apart? What's the best way to drive out old bushings, and install new bushings? And finally, will it tighten up ride quality when new bushings are installed?
1995 Bronco
Thanks

 

"Pivot Bushings "? Are you talking about where the radius arms connect to the frame. If so, then you can change them by undoing the big nut holding them one, and you might have to unbolt the brackets holding the radius arm, but that would be it(some of the newer Broncos have a rivit or 2 on each side that must be cut off).
If you replace them w/some poly bushings, it should help tighten things up alittle.

 

Not sure if your talking about the axle pivot bushings, or the rad arm bushings.....both are not that hard to remove and replace.

"What's the best way to drive out old bushings, and install new bushings? "

Use a old socket or something....????

 

Axle pivot bushings - located in the end of each axle half-beam, connecting the axle beams to the frame. I would suggest looking up the procedure for replacing these in the Haynes/Chilton manual. The bushings are pressed into the end of the beam, and must either be pulled out or driven out using an air chisel. The chisel will destroy the old ones, so is not an option if you need to re-use the metal sleeve. I could not locate the "special puller tool" used to remove these, but was able to fab my own. Used it to remove and then install the new bushings. One bolt holds these in place, so it's not necessary to pull the axles out. Just drop the beam down enough to work on the bushing and raise it back into place. Two jacks made it easy, one under the beam and one under the hub for leverage.

While the rubber in the factory bushings is VERY dense and hard, mine were worn through to the metal. I used poly's and got rid of the annoying "popping" sound whenever the axles flexed.

 

You CAN remove the axle pivot bushings without air tools but it requires a bit more prep and a few more tools. The simplest way to do it is to drill a series of holes in the old rubber bushing big enough that you can then drive out the center of the bushing with the old inner sleeve. Once that is gone you can get to removing the rest of the rubber in the bushing. Some carefull bending and prying at the old sleeve in the axle will allow it to come free of the housing. Its a bit more time consuming than the air tools but it will be less apt to nick the holes in the axle housing. Just another suggestion.

 

I am talking about the axle pivot bushings, although I plan on changing radius arm bushings at the same time. I have read Haynes manual, I was just wondering if you guys had any tricks to make it easier.
As for the sleeve in the axle housing, I have not received my bushing kit yet, does the new set come with new sleeves or just the bushing.
JSM, mine are worn pretty bad too, I am hoping radius arm, Axle Pivot and sway bar bushings tighten things up a bit.
Thanks for all the advise, keep it coming.
I'll let you guys know how it goes.

 

New bushings will have new sleeves. They are integral to the bushings. Basically the bushing is formed inside the sleeve during the manufacturing process.

 

That is correct for the OEM rubber bushings. However, the Daystar's that I used were only the polyurethane bushing, so I had to re-use the metal sleeve from the OEM units. I used a hacksaw to cut out what was left of the old rubber bushing, that's how I know they are very dense - took a while...

The "special tool/ equivalent" I made from a 8" length of 1/2" allthread, a 2-1/2" OD x 2" long metal pipe collar, and a piece of 4"x4"x3/8" steel plate with a hole drilled in the middle big enough for the allthread bolt. After removeing the factory bolt from the axle end, run the allthread through the bushing. Secure with a 1/2"-drive socket about 3/4"-1" diameter, a nut and washer on the front side of the axle (facing the bumper), slide the pipe collar on the allthread and center it over the bushing. Place the metal plate behind the collar (facing the rear of the truck), and secure with a bolt and washer. Tighten the nuts as far as they will go or until the allthread starts to bend. Tap firmly with a BFH or small 2-lb. sledge, and the bushing+sleeve will pop out into the pipe collar as the socket pushes it through. To install the new bushing, move the collar and plate to the front side, and use the nuts on the allthread to press the new bushing+sleeve into the axle. Leave about 1/4" of clearance between the lip of the sleeve and the axle housing per the manual's instructions.

 

JSM, thats odd, the poly replacements that I purchased have the sleeve on them. Possibly a difference in manufacturer. Its been so long since I purchased the set I have I cant' recall who actually made 'em.

 

JSM, That sounds like a pretty slick set up to get the bushing & sleeve out. I'll have to gather up the parts & make a set up to try & press out my bushing & collar, & install my new ones. Whenever they get here?
Thanks for the help.

 

For all you people still driving these old Ford Trucks I have come up with the easiest and safest way to replace Axle Pivot Bushings on your F150. You won't have to remove the tires or springs at all.


You will need a set of ramps, a large floor jack, a ball joint replacement kit (Amazon $45), 2 Moog Bushings (Amazon $11 each), a 1/2 inch impact driver, an 18mm (or 13/16) wrench, a 21mm impact socket, a couple of medium pry bars or large screw drivers, a large torque wrench, a smaller flat chisel, an alignment punch and a saws all with a metal blade.


Drive your truck on the ramps and set the parking brake. Take your large floor jack to the side you wish to repair and jack the truck up until the wheel lifts off the ramp. Slide under the truck, remove the axle bushing bolt with the 18mm/21mm wrench and socket. Pry the I axle beam arm down to expose the bushing and insert a second pry bar above the beam to hold it. Take the flat chisel and drive the rear metal edges of the bushing inward. If you are lucky you can take a flat end punch and drive the bushing forward by striking the bent edges of the metal bushing. (Don't try to press the bushing from the front to rear, you need to drive the bushing towards the front of the truck.) If you can't get it moving you can force out the metal core and use a saws all to cut through the rubber and slice through the metal case in two places. You might want to start with just cutting the metal casing along the rear edge and pry a little more of the edge up and try the punch again. Just a little cutting and edge prying can free it up for the punch to work.

After you remove the bushing and clean the burrs out of the hole grease the new bushing and press in with the ball joint press and impact driver. It almost takes 3 hands to line up the heavy press while aligning it correctly. I used 2 hands and my big belly to do it. Don't drive the bushing all the way where the lip is flush, leave about a 3/16" gap like the factory did. Also be careful to use the right cup on the rear of the bushing so the bushing can protrude. It your bushing stops before it's all the way in you need to readjust the rear cup.
I don't see how it would be possible to press this bushing in without an impact driver and ball joint press.

Since you raised the one tire off the ground aligning the bushing holes is easy using the pry bar. I have seen videos of folks struggling with ratchet straps trying to align the bushing bolt holes but with the one tire off the ground it's easy. Put the bolt in and torque it to spec.

The car ramps stay under the front wheels the whole time so I think it's better than using jack stands. I am a 70 year old, obese man and I could do this. You can too! Good luck!

 

Yes and yes
You might find it easier to melt or burn the rubber out with a torch, then use a hammer and chisel to remove the inner and outer sleeves.
Pressing the new one in with threaded rod and the right sockets is not too hard with the right stuff.
I sometimes use a bearing race as an acceptor for the other side when pressing the new bushing in
I have a C press for ball joints but just use the threaded rod method like the factory tools for those pivot bushings
Good luck

 

When I did mine, and my cousin's, we used a ball joint press to force the rubber out of the metal sleeve. Then, burned up the remaining with a torch and cleaned it up with a wire wheel on a drill.
This allowed us to install new polyurethane bushings (since they're a two piece design) into the old sleeve without removing it. It saved a ton of work, and it works great.

 

Bulletproof, I saw that you also posted that on the truck forum. If that worked for you then good. I removed the beams. That way I could reseal the differential and drain the old gear oil.