I've yet to find any product that will kill rust flat in it's track. I ran across this product called Por-15. has anyone ever tried it. If so, what do you recommend? The starter kit with metal redy? Please reply.


Bob

 

Actually there are several products that will convert rust. Dupli-color has 'Rust Fix' RF129 and I've also used Extend. I'm currently using SEM's Rust Mort for body and fender work, and I also have Por15.

The Por15 is a thick paint on type stuff that will remain as a layer that is like very thick paint. The Rust Mort is as thin as water and designed for professional body work. The Rust Fix and Extend work very easy because they come in a spray can and you can reach under the truck, inside the door... with ease.

I noticed one thing about the Rust Fix, Extend, Rust Mort, they all smell exactly the same, they all turn the rust to purple/black color.

I'm saving the Por15 for the frame and some high stress areas. The metal kit that Por15 has is used for HEAVY HEAVY rust. Where you actually have holes or near holes. This is used to add more metal and replace metal that is missing. I saw this at their demo booth on a part that was rusted thru and had several holes (almost throw away stuff) and it was fixed with their metal addin!

 

Karl, I'm getting confused here. I hear professional body men say that, all this stuff is snake oil, and nothing short of cutting it out and replacing the metal can stop rust.

What is the real story here?

John
jowilker


66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night,
you can hear chevys rusting away.

 

>Karl, I'm getting confused here. I hear professional body men >say that, all this stuff is snake oil, and nothing short of >cutting it out and replacing the metal can stop rust.

They are wrong! You can convert rust, as far as how practial it is, that's a different story. I've seen the samples from Por15 at a show, and was very impressed. BUT, I also took my door off and will throw it away because of rust and the fact that I found a nice clean one at the pick-n-pull. As a practial matter, I would tend to replace something if I can find a good cheap part, but that doesn't always happen (more true with older trucks).

You can stop rust. Here's a link to the Sem site, they sell the Rust Mort...
http://www.semproducts.com/products/

I understand the body shop wanting to remove a panel that has rust, but IF we're talking about surface rust or light rust, that's overkill. If the panel is rusted thru, that's another story.
I'd talk to a restorer of old cars, someone that won't cut a panel because of the value of the car, they take these old frames, wire-brush them down and epoxy coat them.

 

I have used Extend and it seemed to do a pretty good job, but it's been 10 years or better. I hav'nt seen any for a while, as a matter of fact i had forgotten about it....Any body know who carries it??? Wal-mart.....Auto~Zone etc. John

 

Gentlemen.
I have worked on the Houston ship channel with lots of corrosion for the last 25 years and I can tell you that there are really good products out there that will KILL rust including "Extend". Some of the better products utilize phosphoric acid; it acts with the rust to produce a phosphorous coating on the surface of the metal that can be painted over directly. Some of the brand names are "Ospho" and "Gem Rust Killer". This product is a watery green liquid that can be sprayed in a cheap plastic sprayer, brushed,wiped on with a cloth or just poured into a seam and it can be caught in a catch can and re-used over and over. Just don't get a lot of it on your hands.
It does require another coat of primer or paint to finish it off, and the surface coating is really hard.
In fact, my '63 sat out in the weather unprotected for about two years after I treated the seams of the cab and doors with Gem, and I still don't have any rust in the treated seams.
POR-15 is like Extend, a paint type of rust treatment and is an excellent product when you use it per the instructions. I have used the POR clear on my aluminum manifolds and valve covers and on my next project truck (a '65 SWB) I plan to use their chassis black along with some of the other products.
CAUTION. As with every other kind of coating product, surface preperation is the key. Get the grease off and keep it clean as possible.
Good luck with your project.
Skip4274
4everFord

 

Yeah, that Sem Rust Mort is exactly that. A water like light green stuff. By the way Napa sells the Extend and I've seen other sell it too, Kragen sells the RustFix form Dupli-color

Hey Skip, The directions on the Rust Mort (light green watery stuff) says to wipe off before painting, the others don't say anything like that. Do you know if you can sand this Rust Mort type stuff smooth to get a good primer coat to stick? It did mention something about adheasion quality. I'm guessing light sanding won't hurt once its fully dried.

If fact here's the directions from the web site:
Rust-Mort

Remove loose scale and excess rust with a wire brush. Leave enough rust for the conversion process.
Apply Rust-Mort with a brush to rusted areas. Do not dilute or reduce. Three to four thin coats are better than one heavy coat as heavy coats will cause slow drying and produce a gummy film. Exces or non-converted Rust-Mort may be removed or loss of adhesion may occur. Wipe the entire area where Rust-Mort was applied with a damp cloth or rinse with water. Make certain all surfaces are completely dry.
Proceed with body filler or primer per manufacturer's recommendations.
For more detailed instructions refer to DRM technical information.

 

Yeah. The Rust-Mort is probably the same stuff. I just buy the Gem at the Sherwin Williams store. It dries like iron and is difficult to sand so the directions are correct. However, thick coats aren't a problem inside the doors and cab joints. If I use it on bare metal that will have a finish paint job, I wipe it on with a rag and follow up with another dry wipe.
Primer after it dries and a good sanding works wonders. Like I said, the maintance guys in the refineries use it on their valves and pipes so it must work, and I have never had rust come back after a proper treatment.
The POR-15 is an excellent choice for frames and suspension pieces and the clear they make works great on bead blasted aluminum.
Just be careful you don't get it in your eyes, flush with water if you do and don't let it get on your hands for long periods of time. I keep a bucket of water handy to wash off with from time to time.
Sounds like you have a plan. Keep up the good work.
Skip

 

Hi guys, I have used extend and ospho the extend I used on a set of 68mustang gt wheels it works great it converts rust to a purple looking color and then you paint it in the normal way as for the ospho It was sprayed on my 40 ford pickup after sandblasting the truck the truck sat in bare metal for 2 1/2 years and just had a thin coating of rust on it I sprayed it again with ospho and it melted the rust it looks like a brand new piece of steel I don't know how it works on heavy rust but it sure does on light stuff. John

 

Yes there are lots out there and many are the same.I have used POR and the others like them. They do pretty good and are good for the insides of doors, frames etc. I have used it with an epoxy primer by spraying it beofre it completely sets, and it has worked. I however have found that the "silver" rust paints are better. They are the same as what id painted on bridges as primer. The silver has a lot of pigment. Use it first, then the black, or prime with epoxy etc. The silvers are harder to find, but are great!!

 

Gentlemen:
I have used Ospho on quite a few applications, and can recommend it highly. It is simple to apply, just spray it on, let it set, and after 24 hours you can paint right over it. For grins I have sprayed it over a painted surface that had rust coming up underneath the paint, and much to my surprise the rust disappeared - unbelievable. Plus you can pick it up at any ACE hardware store. Good Luck!