Vacuum Hoses?
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 271
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From: Chesapeake VA
Vacuum Hoses?
I have 2 vacuum hoses that are disconnected from something. They were like this when I purchased the van. The vans AC is not very cold, even though the accumulator sweats whenever it is turned on, and all the vents are open most of the time on all settings (def., vent, flr). I was wondering where these hoses go? I looked at a vacuum diagram for the vent assembly, but want a second opinion as to where they go.It is the two hoses that come from the side of the blower wheel and one comes from a tee fitting. I have a 92 Aerostar with heat and AC but without AUX heat and AC. Any help will be very appreciated.
http://ourworld.cs.com/Lance1601/Image000.jpg
http://ourworld.cs.com/Lance1601/Image003.jpg
http://ourworld.cs.com/Lance1601/Image004.jpg
http://ourworld.cs.com/Lance1601/Image006.jpg
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http://ourworld.cs.com/Lance1601/Image000.jpg
http://ourworld.cs.com/Lance1601/Image003.jpg
http://ourworld.cs.com/Lance1601/Image004.jpg
http://ourworld.cs.com/Lance1601/Image006.jpg
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Last edited by Lance1601; Mar 16, 2006 at 05:16 PM.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Those lines are used to control the blender doors and such, and if they are disconnected or leaking, you will get poor AC function. The white one should connect to the metal drum there. I am not sure if it is a sensor, or a vacuum acumulator, but in either case, the lack of vacuum getting to the blender controls renders them inoperable. I would have to check on the black hose to tell you where it should go.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 624
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From: Georgia
One hose connects to the vaccum motor that you can see in the first picture. It's that rusty black round canister. Pull off the black rubber thing and you will see the connector. You may have to replace the hose if it is too short.
I just looked at my two vans (94 and 96). The other hose on mine goes off to the right. I think it connects to the vacuum tree. On the 4.0 engine (like both of mine) it is near the back driver's side of the engine near the top. Hard to see but you can reach your hand back and feel for it. I'm not sure where the 3.0 tree is. One of mine has a check valve in the line too.
The vacuum motor controls the door that lets fresh air in. Without it you will not get Max AC to work. That will explain you A/C problem.
I just looked at my two vans (94 and 96). The other hose on mine goes off to the right. I think it connects to the vacuum tree. On the 4.0 engine (like both of mine) it is near the back driver's side of the engine near the top. Hard to see but you can reach your hand back and feel for it. I'm not sure where the 3.0 tree is. One of mine has a check valve in the line too.
The vacuum motor controls the door that lets fresh air in. Without it you will not get Max AC to work. That will explain you A/C problem.
Last edited by tom_foreman; Mar 16, 2006 at 08:13 PM.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Chesapeake VA
Hmmmm. I wonder why these were cut in the first place? It looks like the black one went to the vacuum motor, the way it's curved and all. I'll look at the vacuum diagram again. The vents blow very little all the time. Anymore help would be great.
Last edited by Lance1601; Mar 16, 2006 at 11:13 PM.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
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From: Southern California
Hi Lance:
I took a good look at what I have in my '93 2WD, 3.0L, and here is what I see.
The white line has a T in it, where one end goes into the plastic box and the othe end goes to a vacuum reservoir. The broken end of the white line you showed in the first picture is connected to the vacuum line from the engine, but there is a one-way check valve in between. The one-way check valve is such that air can only flow TOWARD the engine, just so the reservoir (on the other side of the T on the white line) will retain vacuum after you shut off the engine.
The black line comes out of the plastic box, and is connected directly to the bottom of that rusty vacuum motor you show in the first picture.
Hope this helps.
Good luck
P.S. The lines do get brittle and break by themself often enough. I don't think they were cut deliberately.
I took a good look at what I have in my '93 2WD, 3.0L, and here is what I see.
The white line has a T in it, where one end goes into the plastic box and the othe end goes to a vacuum reservoir. The broken end of the white line you showed in the first picture is connected to the vacuum line from the engine, but there is a one-way check valve in between. The one-way check valve is such that air can only flow TOWARD the engine, just so the reservoir (on the other side of the T on the white line) will retain vacuum after you shut off the engine.
The black line comes out of the plastic box, and is connected directly to the bottom of that rusty vacuum motor you show in the first picture.
Hope this helps.
Good luck
P.S. The lines do get brittle and break by themself often enough. I don't think they were cut deliberately.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
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From: Southern California
Originally Posted by Lance1601
Thanks for that. I need to go to a junk yard more than likely. Where on the motor does it connect?
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Georgia
I'd say that the hoses got stiff and just broke. That happend on one of mine. Pull off the rubber thing on the bottom of the vacuum motor. I got a piece of hose that will fit over the nipple (on the vacuum motor) and then over the small black hose. The old hose was too short to reconnect.
I think you will find that the hose from the motor is still there but that the white hose broke off at the check valve. I looked at both my 94 and 96 4.0 engines. They route differently but both go to the right from there. On the 93 it goes up and to the right. I think it goes through a clip before it goes back down toward the engine. It goes down under the tube where the air goes into the intake manifold.
I think you will find that the hose from the motor is still there but that the white hose broke off at the check valve. I looked at both my 94 and 96 4.0 engines. They route differently but both go to the right from there. On the 93 it goes up and to the right. I think it goes through a clip before it goes back down toward the engine. It goes down under the tube where the air goes into the intake manifold.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 271
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From: Chesapeake VA
Ok, I took a good look at the vacuum tree from the back of the engine (cover off in passenger compartment). There are a couple of caps on the tree. I removed one of the caps and found some reddish-dark type oil in the tree, but I STILL can't figure out where the white hose goes from the engine to the vacuum reservoir (the one with the check valve in-line). I wonder if one of the previous owners capped the original place where the hose hooked up at or if I'm looking in the wrong place. I'm thinking the vacuum tree or somewhere else on the intake manifold. Anyone have any ideas?
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
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From: Southern California
Anywhere on the vacuum tree is OK. They all see the same vacuum. As long as the rubber hose fits on it, it's OK.
The reddish oil you see is transmission fluid, and it means the transmission modulator is busted. You need to replace it, otherwise you'll hear a lot of pinging from the engine and you'll keep sucking transmission fluid into the engine. It's under $20 at the local part stores.
The reddish oil you see is transmission fluid, and it means the transmission modulator is busted. You need to replace it, otherwise you'll hear a lot of pinging from the engine and you'll keep sucking transmission fluid into the engine. It's under $20 at the local part stores.
Last edited by copper_90680; Mar 28, 2006 at 10:40 AM.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Chesapeake VA
I've got a new modulator. I bought it late last October when it started getting cold. It's just now starting to warm up again. I pulled the hose on it when I started realizing I was losing transmission fluid. I tried to change it one day and I used too big a wrench (like an 11mm) and rounded the bolt. Later I found out that I was supposed to use a 10mm. Anybody know where I can get this bolt possibly? I got the info I need for the vent assembly, but started thinking of all the fluid in the vacuum system. It does ping and rattle when it's in gear, but idle's fine. I've added about 4 quarts since I've had the van, but it still dissapears. I've already gotten my $800 worth out of the van, and I enjoy working on it, but I still want to work all the problems out of it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
pull and take the bolt to a bolt store in your area specializing in suppling the commerical/industrial trade....they can match anything and will be the cheapest
don't drive the Aero with that much ATF goin thru engine....will kill the cat and plug it...O2 sensor probably dead already
decarbon engine after vac. mod replaced
don't drive the Aero with that much ATF goin thru engine....will kill the cat and plug it...O2 sensor probably dead already
decarbon engine after vac. mod replaced
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 271
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From: Chesapeake VA
Ok I changed the modulator. I hooked the black hose back up to the vacuum motor. I also temporarily hooked up the hose from the fuel pressure regulator to the vacuum vent assmebly. Vents are still in working condition. Good sign I think. Replaced the hose to the fuel pressure regulator. The Ford design has a check valve in-line from the intake manifold. Anybody know where to get the check valve?
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