I have a 94 ranger 3.0 4x2 5-speed. My timing is a little irrattic, not as constant as it probably should be. I put the timing light on it and it was generally at 10* BTDC but varied up to 1* in advance or retard. It idles a little rough and kinda wants to pop/backfire almost when accelerating. When it pops/backfires it gets a slight drop in power, then instantly back. Like a quick hesitation.

I'm afraid it might be the timing chain stretched and needing replaced, or hopefully something less drastic like a vacuum leak. The truck has had a real thurough tune-up:

Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, fuel injector cleaner, air filter, cleaned MAF sensor, changed Temp sensor, drenched the throttle body and upper intake with fuel injection intake cleaner, there are no codes of any kind to be pulled.

Haven't been able to check fuel pressure, though that shouldn't be the prob.

ANY HELP AT ALL WOULD BE APPRECIATED!!!!

 

Usually when the timing drifts the result will be that idle speed wanders slightly rather than a rough idle. Have you checked for any CM codes (even if the CEL is not on)?

 

Vaccuum wouldn't really be a problem as far as it backfiring under acceleration. Billy is right about the timing and idle speed. I say pull your codes, even though the check engine light isnt on.

 

Thats the thing it tried, I took it to Mieneke Car Care Center and let them put it on the computer and showed up with nothing! I just tried a trick to check for a vacuum leak that I heard of and its fine. The Ford dealer wants $80 to hook it up to their "NGS" whatever machine but I think that it's unnecessary. I pray it's not the timing chain! Maybe only time will tell on that. I'm going to pull each plug, fire the engine, and see just what kind of spark is going on.

 

did you actually see them pull the codes or did they just tell you there were none?

 

For what little I need to do on my vehicles anymore I prefer to do it my self rahter than submit to Motley Creu. On that note, you can pull the codes yourself. The details are in this forum.

 

I've tried myself. Did the jumper test (jump a wire from one test plug to another) and let it do its whole self test. Nothing came up! Maybe O2 sensors is something to go ahead and replace to. They aren't that expensive are they?

 

Anyone know if you need to pull the spout on a 94 3.0 before checking the base timing?

 

According to the info on the service CD I have, the answer is yes. Engine must also be warm.

 

What is the spout? I have heard of it but don't know where to find it to dislocate it!

 

If it's like my 2.9 or 5.0 it's at the end of a wiring harness, about a foot from the distributor. If you don't disconnect it the PCM can change the timing (advance).

 

i have arogh idel replaced every part you also listed. im afraid it might have jumped time im putting it on atimming light tommarrow it might be a week distributer mine tens to squek if listen closely good luck

 

Yes you need to pull the spout to check the timing and if you are only seeing 10 degrees timing with out pulling it the spout is either already missing or the timing is way to slow. The base timing is 10 degrees with the spout disconnected. Connected it will vary quite a little bit but should be at between 20-30 degrees.

 

yeah pull the connector. I changed the timing chain on my 91 3.0 cause previous owner said that was the reason why it wouldn't start. He builds 10 sec mustangs and is a good mechanic, why not trust him

tore the whole damn thing down. the truck has somewhere over 230,000 Miles on it. The timing chain had some slop in it, but barely enough to warrant concern. I ended up changing it anyways. Don't think a TC is your issue.

 

Wow, I totally forgot that I posted this thread in March of 2006. My problem ended up being that in my process of replacing only one spark plug/wire at a time I figured there's NO WAY I can goof up the firing order, so I never checked it. In the end of exhausting any possible trouble shooting process I figured out that I did somehow cross cylinders 2 and 3 while replacing the plug wires individually. That corrected any hesitation/hiccuping I was encountering.

I have managed to find the spout connector on my truck. It's by the drivers side of the radiator. Just a random cap in the end of a plug in the wiring harness. When the computer would advance the timing it'd do it for solid time periods. But as I watched the timing it was spiratic at best, jumping within the range of 10-12 degrees on a warmed idle at nearly every flick of the light. With or without the spout connector,

In October of 07 at 160k I did end up replacing my timing gears and chain anyway since I needed to replace my radiator and waterpump. It definately solidified my timing, however the replacement of my pump/rad didnt help my temps any suprisingly. Wierd. That's some other issue though.