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79 New project with a seized motor/ tranny removal...

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Old 03-15-2006, 11:02 PM
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79 New project with a seized motor/ tranny removal...

Alright, here's the deal; I was just given a 79 250 4x4 with a 400 under the hood (and a lot of cobwebs and rat turds too). I got it from the original owner who bought it new from the dealership in 79, and drove it daily until he bought his new truck in 99, and parked the 79 seven years ago, and it had been sitting there ever since, until I towed it to my friend's place.

I did the basic prep, pulled the old plugs and poured a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil into all the cylinders, made sure the old tank was empty, etc. I've been trying to crank it by hand, but I think the bolt on the crankshaft is pretty worn down, and my socket keeps slipping. I didn't want to strip it, so I just bit the bullet and decided to try to get her to crank with the starter (turned out I needed a new solenoid). Starter works, but when I turn the key it just hits the flywheel and clunks, no cranking.

From what I can tell the motor must still be seized, and I wanted to see what all advice all you fine folks could provide me with. I'd love to just get a new motor to drop in, but that's out of the budget for a long while. It was suggested that I just tow the truck to the top of the driveway, and let her roll (or give 'er a push) down and slap it into first, and that'd get it turning. I'm only hesitant because it was hell and a half just getting it down my friend's driveway the first time (using my buddy's Toyota towing, and me behind with my 70 250 pushing).

Any and all help'll be appriciated, and I'll get some pictures up as this project continues (as soon as I find someone with a scanner...)
Thanks!
Taylor M
 
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Old 03-15-2006, 11:32 PM
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That's a good truck you got there. My advice would be to use a fair amount of marvel oil in the cylinders and just let it sit in there for a few days before you try to start it again. Get the right socket for the crank, and try moving it by hand first. Also, make sure your battery has a good charge.
 
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Old 03-15-2006, 11:37 PM
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if its a manual trans then you could roll start it.
 
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Old 03-15-2006, 11:38 PM
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I'm going to dump another bottle of Mystery Oil into the cylinders, and I'm using a 15/16 socket I believe, It seems to fit up right, but I'll see if I can find someone with a 7/8 and compare. If anyone knows off hand which it is, let me know...

Oh, and it's an Auto trans...

I'm also going to check the pushrods tomorrow, made sure none are too messed up from rust. I wish the previous owner had put some effort into mothballing the truck, but then it wouldn't have been free...
 

Last edited by ihateminimumwage; 03-15-2006 at 11:42 PM. Reason: update
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Old 03-15-2006, 11:39 PM
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if its a auto trans then the roll start idea is foolish.
 
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Old 03-16-2006, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ihateminimumwage
I'm going to dump another bottle of Mystery Oil into the cylinders, and I'm using a 15/16 socket I believe, It seems to fit up right, but I'll see if I can find someone with a 7/8 and compare. If anyone knows off hand which it is, let me know...

Oh, and it's an Auto trans...

I'm also going to check the pushrods tomorrow, made sure none are too messed up from rust. I wish the previous owner had put some effort into mothballing the truck, but then it wouldn't have been free...
I think the 15/16 socket is the right size, but comparing the two wouldn't be a bad idea. Free is the best price, isn't it?
 
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Old 03-16-2006, 10:56 AM
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After you find what the right size is try using a 6-point socket.

Not to discourage you but depending on what and how bad its seized you may find that even if you do get it to turn it might not last that long. The only time I attempted such a project we got the engine to turn and then run but several piston rings were broken in the process and we had to do a rebuild anyway

I think used 400s are dirt cheap, if you are pressed for $ and can find a runner it might be less than the cost of the gaskets to fix the one you’ve got.<O

ford390 is right, since its an auto the rolling idea wont work, don’t waist your time nothing will happen. <O
 
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Old 03-16-2006, 11:18 AM
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I've had very good luck with siezed engines, haven't had to pull one apart yet. I just take the carb off and fill the plug holes, replace the plugs then fill the manifold with whatever scrap oils I have around and let it set for a week or so. Don't attempt to spin the engine, if it doesn't turn freely wait a few more days. And in the meantime pull the distributor out and make an adapter for the oil pump drive and spin the oil pump with a drill until you have oil pressure on the guage.

After it's free, drain the oil and put in new with a filter, then turn her over by hand a few times before you try and start it.
 
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Old 03-16-2006, 11:26 AM
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This is a long shot but it happened to me so I know it is possible. I have a 65 Comet that I play with in the summer months and moth ball it in the winter and fall. 2 years ago I drove it home from a car show and parked it in its winter resting place outside. The next summer I got in it to start it up and found that it wouldn't turn over. I thought that the engine was froze up just as everyone else I had talked to believed. After cranking on the crankshaft bolt till the point I was going to break it, pulling the oil pan to inspect the bearings, and checking to see if a rocker arm had some how managed to wedge itself in the vavetrain I all but gave up.

Then one day I was under the car with a breaker bar trying to break loose the motor when I just barley noticed the torque converter bolts moving in the flywheel. I then decided to pull the motor and engine together to find the problem. Turns out it was the transmission pump locked up and wouldn't let the motor turn. Took me awhile to find the problem, $20 to fix it. Your truck probable has the torque converter studs instead of bolts but you might still be able to tell if the are moving. Remember they will just barely move.
Another thing to try is mixing a 50/50 mix of tranny fluid and kerosene and pouring it down the cylinders. Good luck.
 
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Old 03-16-2006, 01:06 PM
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I have seen serveral cases of the starter breaking and locking up a motor. Resulted in really cheap buy on a 51 Ford once.
 
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Old 03-16-2006, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by darkhorse1
Then one day I was under the car with a breaker bar trying to break loose the motor when I just barley noticed the torque converter bolts moving in the flywheel.
I don't understand... How do you see the torque converter bolts moving in the flywheel? Were they not tightened up?

If you can, try to turn the engine backwards (CCW) on the crank bolt. If it (the bolt) comes loose, replace it because you said it is getting rounded anyway... I tried for two weeks to get a 351 Cleveland to turn, but nothing happened until I decided to try to turn it in reverse... Then it turned over like nothing. That was 15 years ago: Car still runs great to this day!

And yeah, you cannot start an automatic transmission vehicle by push starting. The pump will turn, but the engine will not. It is a fluid coupling (torque converter) that moves an auto vehicle; No connected parts like a manual trans.

Be patient and don't rush the job. After it turns freely, it will be a good idea to pull the valve covers and check for bent pushrods. I found 4.
Mark
 
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Old 03-16-2006, 04:49 PM
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I've had good luck with locked up motors myself. There's nothing more important than patience. Fill all the cylinders up with marvel mystery oil, diesel fuel, penetrating oil....something...I prefer to do it by pulling the plugs but through the intake works too. You can also drain the crankcase of oil and fill it with diesel....this works very well on volkswagens as it can get to the back of the pistons....usually not required or effective on V8's although I do believe it helped me on a flathead v8 once. After you've done this.....wait....and wait...and wait...after a few days try to turn the engine....you need to be able to put some force on it. Sometimes it's good to jar it. A good punch and hammer somewhere on the flywheel where it won't hurt to hit it a bit works well. I've had engines that I'll jar on a bit and then come back a day later....and a day later and keep jarring it and trying it until finally I'll get it.

As a side note on the automatic push starting deal....everyone's correct for this vehicle and almost all others but there were some automatic transmissions where the transmission pump was driven by the back drive shaft of the trans...therefore if you got it going fast enough it would build enough fluid pressure to engage the clutches and you could pull one off to start it. The chevy powerglide was one such trans....I had a 57 with the powerglide and I pulled it off to start it more than once.

Good Luck!

Tracy
 
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Old 03-16-2006, 08:54 PM
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Damn, thanks for all the tips, I'm going to get on it first thing in the morning.

I Took off one of the valve covers before work today to look for any damage to the push rods, but they were cherry. Well oiled and looked brand new. I'm going to pop off the inspection plate and get a look at the flywheel either tonight or tomorrow, and see if it's rusted or if there is a problem with the torque converter. Also pop off the carb and pour some oil down there too...

Thanks, I'll keep this updated and if anyone has more suggestions, please post 'em...

Taylor
 
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Old 03-16-2006, 10:45 PM
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how about also pulling the starter. that is where i would start.
 
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Old 03-16-2006, 11:00 PM
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Already pulled the starter and got it tested, it's fine.
 


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