Adding fogs. Best way to wire?
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New User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Martinsburg, WV
Adding fogs. Best way to wire?
I would like to add fogs to my 90 F250, but want to know the best way to wire it up to an accessory/ignition-controlled wire. Where is the best place to tap power so that they are switch-controlled when the truck is on, but always off when the truck is off?
I believe that I will need to use a relay for safety, but have never done so before. Suggestions?
I believe that I will need to use a relay for safety, but have never done so before. Suggestions?
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2005
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The wiring is quite easy, I set mine on one of the accessory wires for the live and to a bolt under the dash for the ground. My switch inside the cab is illuminated, so ran that to the ashtray light. The main power wire which is tapped into the accessory wire is fused in case. I have it wired this way for a year with no issues.
I don't remember the color of the accessory wire, (there are two in my 93) but you can look it up on the internet.
I don't remember the color of the accessory wire, (there are two in my 93) but you can look it up on the internet.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
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From: Concord, NC
I would definitely use a relay. With a relay, you will run a new fused power lead from the battery or starter relay post where everything else attaches, to the switched side of the relay, then out to the fog lights. You can then run power from a switched, fused source under the dash to the switch, out to the coil side of the relay, and then ground the other side of the relay coil.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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I did a set of driving lights on a sedan a few years ago. Hella's if I recall. I used their supplied relay and I tapped into the stock headlight on/off circuit, used chasis ground and power from the battery.
Basically, the stock headlights had to be 'on' in order for the driving lights to operate. They were not independent (just in case you forget to turn your aftermarket lamps off after you've shut down the vehicle).
(Call it a dummy-proof system, but I'm forgetful like that.)
Basically, the stock headlights had to be 'on' in order for the driving lights to operate. They were not independent (just in case you forget to turn your aftermarket lamps off after you've shut down the vehicle).
(Call it a dummy-proof system, but I'm forgetful like that.)
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From: Martinsburg, WV
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Hampton Falls, NH
piggy back
when i wired my fogs (mounted on front bumper of my 94 f150) after running through a relay i got the power by piggy backing off of the low beam head light switch, that way the fogs only come on when the lights are on but i also ran it through a secondary switch so i can turn the fogs on and off.
Junior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 70
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From: Apopka Florida
Piggy Back
I recall that on my 84 Turbo Coupe that the fog lights would only come on when the low beam was on. I makes sense because your fog lamps would not be much good with the high beam on anyway. I also had a seperate switch on the dash to turn the fogs on. Maybe ford piggy backed them the same way.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Tn.
I agree with nate most cases you splice in on the low beams or parking lights you should also think about putting in a fuse link a 20A fuse is cheaper then the fog light you put it about 18 in from each bulb on the red (hot) wire
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
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From: Concord, NC
I would put the fuse as close to the battery as you can, so if any of the hot wire between the battery and the lights shorts, it will pop the fuse. If the fuse is at the lights, the whole length of the wire is unfused and if it shorts, you have a big problem.