I'm sure this has been brought up before, but I think it always makes for a lively discussion:

The brakes in my '66 F250 (non-power) seem to work fine, although naturally they won't send you into the windshield like a good set of modern brakes.

I don't know if they work as well as they did new, but I can only assume that if nothing is leaking, or pulling to one side, and the pedal is firm and has proper stroke, and there is no screeching or squealing, that they are pretty close to as good as they are going to get.

When I first had 1 1/2 yards of gravel in the back (1500 lbs? more?), the brakes were almost non-existent. Their effect on stopping the moving, loaded truck was almost dangerous.

What were the standards of the day that allowed a heavy-duty vehicle with such inadequate brakes on the road? Were people as alarmed back then, or did they actually drive slower, or are my brakes really less than a stock set should be?

 

What you had in there was way over the safe limit for the weight rating of that truck. No wonder it wouldn't stop! Drum brakes were never rated for that much. Thank goodness you didn't have an accident and get hurt or worse!!

Barry

 

The brakes on the 250 were bigger than those on Caddys, Lincolns, and the muscle cars of the day, pound for pound. They work great if the drums are thick, the linings are high quality, and the shoes are "arced" to fit the drums. A brake shop that rebuilds brake shoes for taxis is a good place to shop.

 

As Barry states 3/4 ton does not necessarly mean you can load it up with that ammount of weight.

My 62 F250 uni is 3/4 ton but has a GRVW of only 5000 pounds.

A lot depends on the condition of the brakes, incliding the drums and linings. Loads can be safely handled if all parts are in top condition. Lets see just how much weight you had on the old girl.

Gravel standard type of around 3/4" dia is approx 2500# per cubic yard

2500# X 1.5 CY= 3750#

66 Camper Special weigh in at about 3600 to 3800# with a driver

3800# + 3750#=7550# well over the GVRW.

Now you see why you did not stop. The truck had almost two tons of material on it with a three quarter ton rating.

Garbz

 

I had 3/4 of a ton of costruction debris in my 1965 250.The brakes work very well.The shoes,druma and lines are realtively new but it always stops quickly and squarely.I am going change over to a dual master cylinder but I wil prolly leave it drum/drum.My truck also has a power booster on it but I dont know if its factory.
Joe

 

Daplumma:

I'll bet that power booster is factory, and I'm sure it helps.

To all others, thanks for the input. But mine has a GVWR of 7500 lbs, so even with my 1.5 yds of gravel, I'm not far beyond the upper limit, and probably within the design margin of safety.

STILL, I don't think I'll load it that full anymore (thanks for the gravel density figure), and it sounds like my factory setup needs "freshening". I have already bought a dual-chamber master (for safety), and brake shoes all around, so I suppose I'll pop for drums and cylinders and do them all.

Like I said, this subject makes for a lively discussion!

Here's a concrete question that should give a concrete baseline:

With 265/85R16's, should I be able to skid the tires, empty?

 

I would think so, my 66 F250 can lock up the 12x16.5s with no problem..and thats none power...I've never had any brake problems, even when loaded to the max..I think the quality of the brake shoes has alot to do with it, there are some cheapos out there, you get what you pay for

 

Come on guys, 1500 lbs is no load for a F250. The truck should easily handle 4000 lbs in the bed.

Sounds like the shoes have become hardened and glazed over, and are not doing the job like they should. IMHO

John

 

i work at a garden center, a 3/4 yard of gravel weighs a little over a ton, you probabaly had over 2 tons of gravel in the back, i use 97 f-250 4X4 they handle the load with disk brakes ok, but i still is enough weight to make the whole rear end sag.

my weight may be alittle bit off, but they should be close.

you just had alot more weight than you expected in the back of your truck

i think garbz said the same thing, sorry i didnt notice his post

 

Hello,
I'm sure this has been asked a few times, I have 2 F250 trucks, 1965 and 1972. --both 2 wheel drive. I would like to know if anyone has or knows if I can put the 1972 front disc with power boster and power steering onto the 1965? any help would be greatly appreciated. Kerry

 

Kerry, Yes you can. Everything is bolt up exchange from 65 -79.

John

 

Jowilker:


To ask another question that's been asked a million times:

Is the bolt-up swap at the wheels from the kingpins out?

That is, (and this may sound stupid), can I bolt the disc calipers and backing plates up without disturbing my existing '66 kingpins? They're in good shape...

 

Hi Brider, No, I would suggest that you find a 73-79 donor and swap the power steering in at the same time. There can be some little issues with a partial swap, but no failures with a complete swap.

Find a donor with a tight front end and no kingpin beating either. IMHO

John

 

One of those issues (John knows this but doesn't want to complicate matters, I think...) is that there are two king pin sizes used on the 3/4 ton. I believe the GVW 6900 trucks use the smaller one (7/8"?) which is the same as what you have. The over 6900# trucks use a 1 1/16" pin. Each has a specific knuckle, bearing, and rotor. If I remember correctly, the trucks with the large pins and rotors also use a larger wheel stud and lug nut (9/16 vs 1/2), so it's easy to check. All of which may or may not be correct...
Eric

 

thank you all for the reply,
I am going to do a little more research between the 2 trucks.
The 1972 is frame only. Also another question? The VIN on the 65 is F25JR652078 the way I understand this truck was born with a 6cyl, but ... it has a V8. According to "How to Rebuild BB Ford" this engine is a FT 330HD/3.875 or 359,363/4.05 or 389,391/4.05. Markings on the block include the mirror image 105 (left front) and the DT3E on the right side which includes a pluged oil return line in the side of the block, this indicates the FT block ... OK are you still with me? My question is how do I determine which CI I have, the 330, 331 359, 361, 391? And the Year? BTW it has a 2 barrel. Kerry