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SAS what gives

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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 05:31 AM
  #1  
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SAS what gives

Hey everyone, I have been trying to get some info on doing a solid axle swap on my truck. I have been told that in doing the swap i have to lift it 6" or cut the crossmember or something I know some of you guys have done this what gives. I want to swap it but i don't want to go that tall because i want to be able to haul with it still. I don't want to run any more than a 35" tire. Why won't it clear and can I not just put it in with 2.5" of lift. Anyone have some pics on why.

88 F150
LWB I-6 4 speed granny
35" Buckshot Radials
3in Body Lift 3.08 gears
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 06:02 AM
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it is just a marketing ploy to get you to buy a lift kit.
all you need to do is remove the center pivot brackets and install the pan hard bar bracket in the same place. you may have to add a slight lift to the rear to level it out though.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 06:11 AM
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Its people on this website that is telling me this sort of thing in the 4x4 forum. Ok what is the center pivot brackets and the pan hard bar brackets. I am getting a old 78 ford with all the running gear in it should be a bolt on swap right. I have torch, welder and all that. do you have some.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 06:19 AM
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ok, i thought you were talking about the 88. i'm not sure about the 78, but don't they have a sas already? the 78 150 i had was a sas.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 06:24 AM
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I was talking about the 88. I'm using the dana 44 out of the 78 (it has a broke frame) the solid axle and the front end all the componets that i need,i think.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 06:30 AM
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oh ok. the center pivot brackets that the ttb mounts to. they should unbolt from the cross member, then you do not have to put any ridiculous lift on the truck to clear the brackets with the front pumpkin. and since you are using a 150 setup, you will not need the bar, because you already have the radius arms to keep everything in line. i was thinking of the 250-350 frame with leaf springs. there is a 1 inch diameter bar that goes from the center of the cross member to the passenger side spring mount to keep the front axle in line.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 06:43 AM
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So i should be able to just bolt the axle up under my truck after i get the ifs out of there. Will my driveshaft work or will i need to change that. So i will be able to use the track bar off of the 78 to keep it in line. I have heard some things about the coil spring mount may need to be changed but i think it should work
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 09:59 AM
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I think you will need to put a slight ammount (2"?) of lift in order to gain clearance for everything. Im doing a sas as well and asked the same question about lifting a week ago and everyone said they you had to put on 6" of lift for it to work. I think im going to go with 4" and see if it works.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 10:08 AM
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Anyone ever wonder why the 70's trucks sit up so high? If you install the d44 without enough lift you will ruin your truck the first time the suspention moves enough to slam the diff against the cross member, which will most likely twist the frame some.

If your not lifting the truck then why go solid axle?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 10:37 AM
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OK, don't pick at my rusty parts because I'm in the process of stripping/painting everything because it's for sale.

Here is how close it is with 8" coils sagging to around 6" of lift or so.
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=3/7310234790.jpg&s=x11

Another
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=3/7310280979.jpg&s=x11

Last one
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=3/7310323374.jpg&s=x11
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 10:56 AM
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Well what I'm wondering is ok the 70's truck did set up higher but 6". I didn't think they were that much higher. And what is different about the trucks that won't clear. A solid axle does a lot better offroad where its lifted or not. I go in some really tight places and if I put on 6" of lift it will be pretty tall. I have a 3in body lift on it already. I thought If i could just go with about 2in of lift it would be great. I may go with the 6" but man.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 11:06 AM
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The 70's truck sits higher, but also the frames are designed different. The problem is that ford didn't design these trucks for a solid front, so the cross member (under the engine) will hit the diff. if you do not have enough clearance. If you look at my pictures you can see just how close the "chunck" is to that cross member.

Anyway, I'm not saying it can't be done nor am I saying it can. It just won't be that easy IMO.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 11:14 AM
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I wonder if you could change the crossmember or relocate it back a little farther. Is it welded in or riveted.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 11:29 AM
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hey dude, you won't need to lift the truck but about 3 inches in front and it won't hit anything. Just grind the rivets outa of the old ttb suspension parts where it pivits. If you can find a small bronco like 75, 77, u can use the radius arms from them and still use your stock radius arm locations. With installing the straight axle, ur gonna get about 3 inches of lift automatically because of the spring perches and design of the axles. Unless ur runnin long travel springs and radius arms it's not gonna hit the cross member.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 02:40 PM
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If you use a solid front axle from an 87 - 96 the pumpkin should be offset to the drivers side enough not to cause a problem. The earlier front axles do not have as much off set.
 
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