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I've got the same problem and haven't torn into it yet so I have no first hand advice. I will say that I think you're on the right track and if you will do a search on Steering in this forum , you will find all the info you need. I know I did.
The seals are not hard to replace, and there fairly inexpensive (about $10 bucks for both.) But the problem comes in when trying to remove the pitman arm. I finally gave up and took mine (74) to a shop to have them break it loose, and re-install the nut loosely, so I could remove it when I got home!
After that, it was pretty simple! If I was going to do it over again, I would probably pay for the replacement at the shop because the time I spent wasn't worth the money saved!
Yak, replacing the top one usually does the trick. You might want to make the replacement in the truck since the gear is heavy. I removed the pitman arm from the tie rod, removed two of the three chassis bolts and loosened the third, and then disconnected the top. You can rotate the top forward, replace the seal, and then reverese the order, and not have to hold that heavy thing while you start the first bolt. :-)
John
jowilker
Club FTE since 01 01
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night,
you can hear chevys rusting away.
Replacing the seals got me about 2 years until it really started throwing out the oil. Start saving your pennies for a new/rebuilt one.
Dave,
79 F-150 4x4, 390 w/C6, Edelbrock carb, 33X12.50 never will be finished.
You can replace the seals without removing the box. Take off the pitman arm, there is a tool designed for this it's called a "pitman arm puller." Take out the snap ring, and then with the engine running, turn the wheel all the way to the right. The pressure will push out the rubber seals(2) and steel washers(2). It's going to be kind of messy. Sometimes, the leak turns out to be the shaft it self. If there is a lot of pitting, this will cause it to leak also, and your only option is to find another one or rebuild.