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fuel in carb, not engine?

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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 03:22 PM
  #31  
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I checked the timing and it was on, although I didn't use a timing light. Don't have one. And yes, when I checked the timing I know that at least piston 1 was moving fine. But it just sounds wierd when I crank it now. I know there wasn't any unusual sounds when I shut off. A mechanic friend is coming over when he's done at the shop. He said not to touch anything until he gets here, so hopefully I'll get some answers. I'll let you know. Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 03:45 PM
  #32  
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I wish I was closer to help you , I love doing this stuff.

I was going to be an Automotive Technician when I left HS but took Business Administration in college instead.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 07:18 PM
  #33  
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If the engine cranks, the distributor turns, the crank has to be turning.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 07:38 PM
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Just my 2c's-when I was still living in Billings my wife took our 79 400 to pick up the kids from school,she shut it off while waiting for them,once they were loaded up she went to crank the engine and it wouldn't fire over. I went over and had to jump start it and adjust the timing just to get it to fire,and then it ran like crud. While it was still running I hooked up mt timimg light and set it to specs,the truck wanted to die and sounded like it was about time for a piston to come out throught the head.Low and behold the timing chain had jumped a tooth or four.Replace the timing set up and it cranked over twice and fired,ran real smooth,I set the marks straight up as suggested by this sight and to this day haven't had to touch timimg light.But my point is that it happened that quick,the truck gave no signs of impending problems.
John
 
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 07:46 PM
  #35  
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Mil1lion, I wish you were here too!

I guess the timing could have jumped some, but if I lined up the marks, piston 1 at TDC and the rotor is pointing right doesn't that indicate that the timing is ok? I'll have my dad bring the timing light tomorrow and see.

ok, my buddy ended up having to work late so he won't be here until tomorrow. But I kept poking around without taking anything apart (his rules! ) Here's what I found.

The gas leaks on the intake manifold are actually coming from the joint between the intake and the block/head. So for some reason the gasket between them is leaking. I also pulled the number 1 plug and cranked the engine. I could see the piston moving up and down and when I put my finger in the spark plug hole it was alternatly pulled or pushed out.

So could the leaking gasket be lowering the compression enough to not allow the engine to start? Tomorrow morning my dad is bringing me his compression gauge so I can actually get a reading off each cyclinder. I'm wondering now if the entire drivers side bank is going to be low because of those leaks. Or would it be both sides, since the intake gasket is leaking? I did check my oil and there isn't any coolant in it, so the head gaskets are fine. Is it possible for just the valley gasket to go bad, or is that an indicator of something worse?
 

Last edited by MHull; Mar 16, 2006 at 07:50 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 08:12 PM
  #36  
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Do you know the timing chain/gear slop test ?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 08:14 PM
  #37  
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no, what is it?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 08:19 PM
  #38  
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Is a timing light any good if truck won't start?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 08:39 PM
  #39  
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Get a breaker bar 6" extension and a socket to fit the crankshaft bolt.

remove the distributor cap.

Now, turn the crankshaft one way or the other until you see the rotor move ...Stop.

Turn the crankshaft the opposite direction noticing how much travel (in degrees) the breaker bar goes before the rotor turns again.

1/4 turn is 90*

Do this a couple of times to verify.

Post the result.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 09:06 PM
  #40  
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Montana- yeah, as long as it cracks and gets spark, timing light will work.

Mil1lion- I'll do that in the morning and post. I do know that its not much because I pretty much did that when I timed off of TDC. I did go backwards once or twice, but i wasn;t paying too much attention. I'll get more specific and post.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 12:06 AM
  #41  
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ok, here's the update. did a compression check when my mechanic friend showed up and it came up next to nothing on cylinder 1. Then he tried checking the timing, and the time chain slipped right there, so that pretty much nailed the problem. As far as the intake leak, the gasket is leaking on the exhaust side, but not enough to cause any real problems yet, so we'll see how it goes with the timinig set. If I can I'll do the intake gasket, but only if the timing gets finished quick. The most irritating thing is I just put a new water pump in it not 2 weeks ago!

So tomorrow I am getting my truck towed to my friends shop, where we will proceed to tear it apart and put it back together. Once its up I'll give you the final prognosis. Thanks for all the help!
 

Last edited by MHull; Mar 18, 2006 at 12:08 AM.
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 03:58 PM
  #42  
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I had a feeling


Get the timing chain & gear set that allows for a straight-up setting..... instead of the 8* retard setting.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 07:56 PM
  #43  
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well, final verdict. The timing chain was stretched enough that there was quite a bit of slack on the chain. Plus the gear was REALLY hammered. About half of the teeth were down to a bit over 1/4 inch high, and the rest were worn to about half of the width of the replacement gear. Man, it was ugly!

I did get the set that allowed for the straight up setting. Put it in, put everything back together and it started right up. Also ended up replacing the accelerator pump diaphram since it was torn and leaking, and now it runs GREAT! WAY better than it was before it died. So thanks for all the help everyone. I'm back and running now.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 08:20 PM
  #44  
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Excellent ! glad to hear it
 
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