electrical? stumped bad.
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From: old town usa
electrical? stumped bad.
I have an 89 ford 300 six 5spd efi 4x4. ive replaced starter solenoid,distirbutor,ign module, coil, plugs wires,new battery cables and replaced the ground, ive replaced fuel filters front one and one behind high pressure pump.ive replaced eec relays and checked all fuses and my truck still is not running. ive went threw everything i know electrical and now im goinginto the steering clolumn.my god this has been a nightmare. brought number one tdc pointed rotar at num one tower on dist.get it to fire and then keep loosing it. last time friday night got it all dialed in went for a ride of about 25 miles it backfired and now will not run again.im really about out of ideals except maybe the steering actuator switch itself that the long rod from the ign switch turns on. long post i know but im trying to give alittle history to my problems and repairs. any an all ideals will be appreciated 
.. thanks for any help at all.
.. thanks for any help at all.
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From: Easton,Ks
You are not telling us much, what tests have you done?
Have you pulled the codes? What were they?
Do you have spark?
Have you ckecked the fuel pressure? What is it with pin #6 grounded of the Test Connector (DLC) and the key in the on position?
Have you done a wiggle test of the wiring?
Have you pulled the codes? What were they?
Do you have spark?
Have you ckecked the fuel pressure? What is it with pin #6 grounded of the Test Connector (DLC) and the key in the on position?
Have you done a wiggle test of the wiring?
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From: old town usa
subford no i havn't pulled any codes. i have no way of doing it myself i can even get it to a shop to do that.and im not sure how to do it with a test light or a computer.its just when turning it over and let off the ign it wants to fire then. heck ive replaced everything i know to replace.franklin2 ive replaced the rotor cap and also the dizzy to. im now replacing actuator switch on my steering column. really don't know what to do next. been without my truck now for two months its getting old fast.when it cranks up it seems ok but last time 25 miles later test driving it it backfired again and shut off. like i turned the ignition off..any more ideals ill be on it all day today and will check back on post and replys.. thanks again subford, franklin2..oh is there away to hot wire it and see if indeed its the actuator switch.. hot wire from +coil side to ?
Last edited by toyota1988; Mar 25, 2006 at 07:24 AM.
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From: Easton,Ks
To run a self test and get your codes go to this URL:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
To hot wire the Ignition system you would remove the Red wire with a blue stripe at the starter relay small terminal. Put 12 Volts on this wire. Of course you will have to put 12 Volts on the small terminal of the starter relay to crank it. It will then run at base timing but you will still need the computer for the fuel so the key would need to be on.
Sounds like you may have a fuel problem, when you turn your key to the run position your fuel pumps will run for about two seconds and quit. Every time you try to start it you may be burning up this fuel and then it dies.
Try grounding pin #6 of the test connector and see if it runs.
Let us know what happens but do not leave it this way, as you will bypass all of the built in safety features. This bypasses the EEC (computer).
Here is a diagram of the test connector.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
To hot wire the Ignition system you would remove the Red wire with a blue stripe at the starter relay small terminal. Put 12 Volts on this wire. Of course you will have to put 12 Volts on the small terminal of the starter relay to crank it. It will then run at base timing but you will still need the computer for the fuel so the key would need to be on.
Sounds like you may have a fuel problem, when you turn your key to the run position your fuel pumps will run for about two seconds and quit. Every time you try to start it you may be burning up this fuel and then it dies.
Try grounding pin #6 of the test connector and see if it runs.
Let us know what happens but do not leave it this way, as you will bypass all of the built in safety features. This bypasses the EEC (computer).
Here is a diagram of the test connector.
Last edited by subford; Mar 25, 2006 at 12:10 PM.
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From: Virginia
franklin2 ive replaced the rotor cap and also the dizzy to. im now
If you can retrieve the codes, do that first.
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From: old town usa
ok subford. thanks for the schematic tip on hotwiring it.im going to try that today and see what happens.i do hear my fuel pump run for a few seconds when i do turn it on so it may also be fuel problem just not sure if its rail pump or in tank if it is this. there;s a fuel filter that has a filter inside a round plastic screw on device kinda looks like an oil filter and i changed the filter in it at the parts store. however im seeing just a very little wetness from it when i try to crank my truck each time but it is so little i wouldn't think that would starve it that much to make it keep stalling..anyway ill keep posting back and post my findings because this has been the hardest problem to diagnose ive ever run into.i have a certified chevy mechanic thats a freind of mine and its stumping him to so.. thanks again..
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From: old town usa
Originally Posted by Franklin2
What I was talking about is the position of the rotor. You know how you had to line the distributor up to get it in time and pointed to the correct sparkplug wire? I would check this again. If you find it's not lined up like you had it before, then the gear on the camshaft may be stripped.
If you can retrieve the codes, do that first.
If you can retrieve the codes, do that first.
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From: Easton,Ks
I am getting a bad feeling about this one, its starting to sound like the EEC has some bad Capacitors in it. You can change them or replace the EEC. If you want to replace them I can give you a URL for instructions on how to do it. You can get a replacement EEC from a salvage yard and they go for about $30.00 if you want to swap it out for a test, but remember the one from the salvage yard is the same age as yours and the electrolytic capacitors only last so long.
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From: old town usa
well finally i think i have fixed my truck.test driving it today.two dizzy;s,one starter solenoid; ign module,new plugs,wires,two coils, new ground wires on battery side and to frame&motor, and one starter i found a burn;t wire running from starter solenoid towards the front of my truck bedhind the battery in side the wiring haness that was nearly burn;t into.rewired it and my truck is now running. however i did half to pull my spout out and leave it out because when i put it back in my truck will not run right.hope this does help someone in the future maybe.cannot believe that wire caused me all this grief. i guess it was getting so bad that it would get warm lose contact and cause my truck to lose fire. when in doubt look for loose or burnt wires i guess.will post back on how the test drive goes. thanks for all the felp FTE. subford and franklin2 ...
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From: Virginia
With the spout wire disconnected, you are taking timing control away from the computer. So your timing will be fixed in one position with no advance. You may start seeing this as not as much power and very poor fuel mileage.
I know you had a hard time fixing this, and are glad it's running again, but after the dust settles and you drive it awhile, try to get the spout plugged back up. There should be a timing number on a sticker in the engine compartment that they tell you to set it at with the spout unplugged. This timing number gets the dist mechanically in the ballpark, so the computer can then have proper control when you plug it back in. If it runs rough, you may want to leave it for a couple of start ups to see if the computer can "re-learn" and adjust the timing.
I know you had a hard time fixing this, and are glad it's running again, but after the dust settles and you drive it awhile, try to get the spout plugged back up. There should be a timing number on a sticker in the engine compartment that they tell you to set it at with the spout unplugged. This timing number gets the dist mechanically in the ballpark, so the computer can then have proper control when you plug it back in. If it runs rough, you may want to leave it for a couple of start ups to see if the computer can "re-learn" and adjust the timing.
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From: old town usa
yes subford. it was a fusable link. the wire starts out yellow and comes from the hot side of my starter solenoid into the wiring harness running towards the front of my truck passengers side behind the battery and there;s like a fusible link there and coming out of there the wire color changes to like black im thinking now i have repaired it and taped it up. can recheck it though to be sure and repost it or take a picture and post if needed.unbelievable. the only chance of me finding that was i was working on it and lost all power to inside of cab except like stereo cab light but no main power for ignition. so me and chevy mechanic freind went searching then and thats when we found it and it showed signs of having been burning for a while.besides the red positive wire there is i think three other yellow wires that come out of that side of starter solenoid..
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From: old town usa
franlin2 when i plug the spout back in the truck wont idle long enough to set anything. and i cleaned my harmonic with a wire brush and found no timing marks at all. only the notch itself. and thats not what i use ive read. i did make my own scribe though when i brought it up to tdc.it will run ok now , i unpluged the battery hooked it back up and when i put the spout in it will idle for a minute or two then cut off. like the computer is not reprograming it. i want to get it right just not sure at this point how much further i should go. its been a two month ordeal with this problem..