No jb weld. I cut the stem just above the first sealing disk and thru those pieces away, because they are not weldable, then made new pieces too replace those and welded them in place, leaving the stem intact, hopefully fooling the computer. I've pulled the unit out a couple of times checking for soot or failing welds, but man everything stays nice and clean down inside the intake, and that has too help the longgevitty of the motor.

 

Can the SCT do this permanent closure programming?

 

I believe the answer is YES.

 

Is this much more effective than the simply unplugging it?

 

Doesn't appear to be. With stock programming and EGR connected, I boost upwards 27 psi during a short WOT run empty on flat ground. With the EGR unplugged, I cannot boost much above 20 psi. My understanding is there is a connection between the EBP sensor, EGR, and boost. So removing the EGR affects the boost.

I was hoping a SCT/ID custom tune could change the EPS/VGT programming so that I still can boost upwards 27 psi but without EGR. But apparently they aren't/can't. They are just keeping it closed electronically, so I'm still only boosting 20+ psi (AggTow or Street).

They do tell me that 20+ psi boost is normal for my 2005 PSD on a flat/empty WOT. But it still doesn't explain why I'm boosting 27 psi with stock programming and the EGR plugged in for a similar run.

It's possible things are much more complicated than what I think.

 

Well said pstrang.
That is the problem we are trying to solve, the lost boost. I don't have $400+ for a tuner/flasher/programer. I just want my lost boost back along with a clean intake system. Come on Tech/electrical guy/gals, cant we come up with a plug in module that mimics the actions of the EGR, via the EGR plug and not the vehicle computer?
So far the only fix is a 2nd EGR @ $140+. Yeah that is right I want something for nothing. '05 non-cali model and no CEL with D/C'ed EGR.

 

I have an 03 6L with MBRP 4" turbo back and the cat is gone aswell I have the EGR unpluged. I have never had any code come up in the 4 months it been done. I did notice that the truck is a bit more responsive with it unplugged, and that was even before the exhaust install.

 

I have a 2005 6.0l, I started loosing boost preassure, so I unplugged the EGR, and noticed a little improvement, then I decided to unplug the EBP sensor, and WOW, back to normal, nice even boost consistantly around 28 psi when I am on it. The truck is stock and I do tow a stock trailer about 14k lbs, is it OK, to run with both the EGR and the EBPS unplugged?

 

WHAT? Both D/C'ed and no CEL light? And your boost is up to normal? Interesting. I did just the EGR and lost about 5+ psi. If i could get this back by D/C ing the EBPS and no CEL? Will have to try this tomorrow.

 

Unless you've got a California Truck, most of the trouble codes on the PSD will not light your CEL. That's because up until recently, only California had emission standards for these trucks outside of the ones established for "Commercial Vehicles".

Now, as to EGR and what it does: EGR's primary purpose is to lower the combustion temperature in an engine by circulating cooled exhaust gas back into the engine. This is primarily done to reduce NOx (Oxides of Nitrogen) Emissions, but on a diesel there is some level of correlation to noise and cumbustion temperature. Ford initially tried to use EGR to quiet the engine down after they took pilot injection away.

I thought that the EBP was a lot more important than it apparently is. I suppose that the PCM can probably figure out what the exhaust backpressure is from other information at its disposal or perhaps a preprogrammed backup set of values. After all, there must be a provision for EBP failure somewhere.

I hate to do this too much, but I can say that there is something at least a little bit similar on a gas engine to the EBP on these. It is called the EGR Transducer. That also measures the backpressure in the exhaust and it is used to help the PCM dial in the EGR position. The only question in my mind is whether or not the Turbo (VGT setting in particular) relies on the EBP to a degree as well. Very interesting.

On another matter, did I hear correctly that a tuner can painlessly (other than financial pain, of course) cut the EGR out of the loop? I would be VERY interested in this. My buddy has a 2004 with the 2003 engine in it, and he is about to go over 100K with no serious problems outside of the wiring harness recall. He has never had an EGR failure, and the thing idles a lot to boot. I can't help but wonder if the tuner actually saved him from EGR hell.