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I have a '78 F150 4x4 with a '76 390FE powerplant in her and I need some help with the tranny. You see I'm trying to swap in a C-6 which came out of a two wheel drive. So I took a 4x4 output shaft out of another C-6 and installed it in the two wheel drive tranny. Everything went together perfectly , but when I tighten down the front pump bolts the output shaft is difficult to turn.The only thing that I am not sure of is the sun gear case has a 1/8" gap in between the teeth ,but I seem to remember it coming apart that way. Everything works great if the pump bolts are loosened a little. I am getting pretty bumed by now and any advice would be apreciated. Thanks
Pull all the bolts out of the pump and lay them aside. Pull the pump up and make sure everything is in place under it. When you install the pump, only use two bolts. One on the left and one on the right with the pan facing you. Tighten each down till they make contact with the pump body. Now, tighten each bolt one at a time turning the input shaft as you do this. When the shaft begins to bind go to the other bolt and repeat this procedure. Keep alternating back and forth between bolts turning the shaft until the pump is firmly seated on the case. If you did it correctly the shaft should turn when the pump is all the way down. Finish installing the remaining bolts.
oz9609, you sound like a tranny guy. Just a lot of experience or do you work in a shop? My question to you is, I got stuck in the snow last month and after a lot of rocking and high rpm, I finally got myself out. Ever since then, my truck doesn't shift right. It holds in gear way too long until everything gets warmed up (10 mins). When it does shift, it's still a good solid shift, it just doesn't want to. The tranny was rebuilt last year by a good shop, I just haven't had time to call him yet. Any suggestions?
Dave,
79 F-150 4x4, 390 w/C6, Edelbrock carb, 33X12.50 never will be finished.
Overhauled my first tranny at 17. It was a turbo 350. (GM) It seems i have been through a million since. I,m 45 now. Worked in a shop for about 18 years. Learn by doing. Anyway, your problem sounds like the governor is sticking. I,ve had this happen on my 78'. When I have gotten it in a bind like you mentioned the darned thing won't downshift when I stop. I have to goose it enough to engage the detent to get it in first. It will eventually work itself out and shift fine. You tranny is doing the opposite, but I'll bet money on the governor. If it doesn't get better on it's own I'd take the drive shaft out and the extension housing off and remove the governor. Take it apart, lay the parts in order and get a piece of "crocus cloth". It's like emery cloth but much finer. More for polishing than grinding. Buff the valves to clean then turn the cloth over and buff to a gloss with the cloth side. Be careful not to round the edges of the valves. If you do, they will forever wedge dirt. Spray clean with choke cleaner and blow dry. NEVER use a rag to wipe parts or you will have lint sticking the valves. Put back together and let me know.
It sounds to me like the last clutch plate of either the forward clutch or the high gear clutch is not engaged on the appropriate clutch hub, creating the 1/8" gap you mentioned at the sun gear shell. Oz9609 was thinking you have the pump cocked, but I think the problem is further down inside. When all is assembled properly, you should have about .020" endplay on the turbine (input) shaft making it easy to rotate.
Good point Art. That is the reason I said make sure everything is good under the pump. If you are unsure about anything deeper down you should remove the band and take everything out down to the sun gear. Make sure to put everything together and install as one unit. From sun gear up, then install the pump as I indicated in the prior post.
Yes, but we both know that it is pretty easy to have just one clutch plate out of position, and we might not notice it until we put on the pump. A less-experienced person may just tighten the pump bolts and then first notice the problem. Reminds me of people who use the engine-transmission bolts to "push" in the converter...
Art, I agree. I've seen a few pumps go by the wayside using this method. I have always had the pump with out shaft rings or an "o" ring to see that it fully bottoms out before installing. If everything is ok It'll drop to the case with no force at all. Guess the best is to instruct in more layman terms.
No way - don't give up! Describe where you are at with the rebuild and we'll be glad to help you through it.
Another alternative would be to get a Haynes transmission book. I saw one for Ford automatics that has lots of good info and detailed procedures and specs.
Art is right!!! That is why we answer these posts, so we can help. Don't give up. It might take some time but we can get it for you sooner or later. Hang in there.
To The Tranny Gods...I have '86 Bronco and it won't go over 32mph... When it hits 32mph it starts to chug then it drops to about 25mph then it lets me go again until I hit 32mph and then it repeats. This is only when the tranny is warm.
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Cowboy_lurch:
I will assume you are driving it with the selector lever in the "drive" mode. Does it do the exact same thing when the selector lever is in the low position, then shifted into "second", and then into "drive"?
Note the shifting compared to when the problem occurs - do they occur at the same time? Oz9609 could be correct in that this may not be a tranmission problem afterall from the description you provided. We need accurate descriptions to do accurate troubleshooting (we can't test drive over the internet).
Does your Bronco have a C-6 tranmission in it? Does it have overdrive?
Keep in mind that if you put a C-6 into "second", it will start out from a stop in 2nd gear.