I just finished installing my Boost Gauge on my 93' Turbo Diesel with the factory Garret Turbo.

I'm just wondering what numbers I should be getting/and or if I have a leak in my boost connections. I have hooked up my boost lead to that little 1/8 screw near the turbo as specified on the board.

First off my truck never seems to vacuum ever? Shouldn't I be getting some vacuum on the highway when I lift off the decelorator? If so how much. Also in 4th gear WOT I only manage to push 5 psi max. I thought I was supposed to get around 7psi. How would I check for leaks with my boost gauge?

Unfortunatly my tach doesn't work very well so I can't give specifics on RPMs.

Finally what are the steps for locking the wastegate closed. I heard on this board that this is a common mod for this truck but not sure where to begin.

Thanks

 

First a turbo diesel will never have vacuum in the intake manifold unless there are serious problems like the air cleaner is completely full of mud.
A natural aspirated diesel will only see the amount of vacuum that is required to overcome the filter restriction. This is why a good clean air filter is so important.

Do you still have the stock downpipe on the truck?
If you do that is probably about right for numbers.
Also you are not going to see big numbers with a stock exhaust unless you are looking at the pyrometer.
Stock exhaust holds a lot of heat in the engine and turbo, this is not a good thing.
Also do you have the pyrometer installed?
This will raise the EGT's you can produce drastically, engine damage may result if you can not monitor them.
Also to get maximum boost an injection pump adjustment will probably be needed.

I would not completely disable the waste gate.
I would adjust it.
It is a safety feature to protect the head bolts and head gaskets.

Some of the wastegate rods are staked so it is not adjustable.
What you have to do is carefully measure the length or count the number of threads on the rod that are exposed.
Then remove the E clip from the wastegate arm so you can remove the actuator arm.
Be careful to not turn the actuator arm or diaphram damage will result.
Holding the arm where it goes into the actuator with vice grip or the like, loosen the lock nut and see if the rod will screw shorter.
Not to much pressure though, you don't want to break the rod if it is staked.
If it will not turn in to make it shorter, remove the end from the rod.
Run a tap down into the end and clean the threads out so it will adjust.
Now re assemble to the stock starting point.
Now to increase the boost you make the rod shorter.
Mine was about 1 PSI per two turns.
If you want to stay relatively safe you can adjust it up to 10 to 12 PSI and have a safety margin left.
Most people will tell you 15 PSI is over the edge for safety of the head gaskets in case you decide more is better.

Disclaimer:
Use this at your own discretion, without careful monitoring of the gauges, both EGT and boost you may exceed temperature limitations of the pistons. A fine running engine is a balance of several modifications that include the exhaust system, the intake system, the fuel system and the turbo system. If you get it out of balance your wallet will take a big hit.

 

I thought ATS made the factory turbo or did both garret and ATS have them?

 

ATS uses Garrett turbos.
The turbo is just one piece of a turbo system.
Without the rest of the pieces a turbo is worth very little.

 

corbintek,
5psi is pretty good for unloaded.

hook up to a 8k + trailer, hit a hill, and you'll see and hear a little difference, tho with the factory turbo, it won't be much more.

 

Got the 93 factory setup with the Garrett on my 93' F250.

Max boost with W.G. operating normally: 7.0 psig

No Load, 100 km/h, straight road, ~1900 rpm, sealevel, K&N air filter: 3.0 psig.

Max boost I have run todate with W.G. disconnected: 10 psig

Why I don't go higher: Exhaust temps climb about 1000 F if I do.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for all your input. I'll probably just leave everything alone since I just bought this truck a week ago and I'm really only using it as my beeter instead of driving my car. I'd rather have 1 year more worth of engine than 2 more psi and a blown manifold. Its just sad to see my boost gauge move an OCH to 5psi when it has readings up to 20 psi, haha.

Overall its a good truck with 216k miles on it and seems to run really well so far, the tranny could be iffy but I baby it as much as possible. I think I got a pretty good deal for $2800.

 

Yep, that's a great deal for the price