I took my 2000 Explorer Sport 4x4 to a local shop to have the ABS code read (The ABS light is coming on just about every other time I drive the vehicle). The mechanic there used a Snap-on code reader and he said the reader indicated a bad ABS pump. I wasn't too impressed by this guy, because every time I would ask him something he wouldn't ever really answer me. What my question is, if the code reader indicates a bad pump, couldn't something else still trigger that reading? Could the pump still be good, but something else be triggering that code making it appear to the reader that the pump is bad?

This morning I went out and turned the key to the start position without actually starting the engine. The ABS light stayed on. So I turned the key off and then turned the key to the start position again and the light went out like its supposed to. I tried it a few more times and the light went off each time. I did a road test with the light off, and the ABS is working (of course when the light is on it doesn't work, I locked it down on the road and the wheels locked up). Is this how a bad pump is, working sometimes and not working other times? I am taking it to the dealership Monday, and I want to be as informed as possible so they won't stick me with a repair that I don't need! Please help!!

 

before you buy a pump.take the plug off aqnd clean out good with something like brake clean .let it dry out and reinstall it to see if it's just a dirtyy contact in the main plug.which i THINK also connects right onto the abs computer. "brain fart right now"
also heres a web site to book mark that has all the codes meanings. good luck as for you i hope it is. the pump control unit costs big $$$$
http://www.obd-codes.com/index.php

 

Thanks Captain!! I will try that. I checked the prices on the pump and almost had heart failure!!

 

Big time dittos to what Captain Charlie said & heres how the ABS pump circuit is wired: From power distribution box fuse 10 to the "4WABS relay" & then to the 4WABS pump motor on a tan/red wire & the connector at the motor has Tan/red & solid black wires.

Since this is an intermitant problem it could be as simple as a flaky 5 buck relay.

The ABS pump motor is under the hood drivers side.

The EVTM is kind of confusing on where the relay is. It's relay 6 & it's either in "auxiliary relay box number one." or in the "power distribution box" See if your owners manual tells you it's location. For 5 bucks you might want to change the relay or swap it with another one & see what it does.

 

The owners manaul doesn't specifically tell where the relay is. I did go to the power distribution box and swap relay 6 with the relay beside of it and the abs light is still on. Do you think I tried the correct relay? It would be nice if that is what the problem was.

 

i am not a ford wireing man, 42 years on vw's those i can help you with.
again try cleaning out all the electrical plug s first then as 87xlt said fuses relays the cheap stuff, you can swap from one spot to another.
if that dosen't work have a ford dealer you trust run a full test before you go and change very very costly parts, and not get the correct one. and these can not be returned.
i have with vw had to change some bosch abs pumps due to bad control units on them. again you have to know what you need so correctly due to the cost. put your hand on the pump is it hot when hot when it's running? it should not be.
heres another web site you could ask in it's all ford techs .so just maybe you can get some good help from these guys.
http://www.flatratetech.com

 

Well I finally found the location of "auxiiary relay box number 1". It's just under the hood/drivers side about 2 feet back from the headlight. Pull the cover off of that & there should be a list of relays on the underside of the cover, look for "4WABS pump relay."

According to the wiring diagram this is where the relay is.

BUT, according to the list of fuses/relays at the front of the EVTM the idiot relay is further back/near the firewall in the "power distribution box." Go figure.

 

Thanks 87 I will check it and thanks Charlie for the advice!

 

I got the news from the dealership. Even though the front hubs are only 3 months old, the right front speed sensor is the problem. I still have the old hubs with good sensors on them, so if cleaning the sensors doesn't work I am going to install those. Anyway, that is a whole lot cheaper than replacing the pump! Thanks Charlie and 87 XLT for your help in this!!

 

A+, good thought process on your initial questioning of the first guys diagnosis. There are no codes that say "go change this part". That is all a matter of interpretting the codes. Al the codes would say is something like "faulty circuit" or "pump not responding to initialization test"... Most of the time, dirty or failed speed sensors are to blame - as you have found out.

 

you are very welcome. a senser and haveing a spare. man are you luckie. a fast dig. at the dealer and a self replace . just make sure you clear the fault when done. .ask and you get help in here

 

I allways avoid dealers like the plague, but in this case it sure worked out good.

Thanks for the update, i'm glad that it turned out to much much simpler & cheaper than replacing that HIGH buck ABS pump.

 

AMEN to that!!