Freeze Plug Location
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Freeze Plug Location
I want to replace my old freeze plugs with brass ones as recommended in this forum. I am about to ask a friend in the US to buy them and send them over.
I looked into the manual yesterday and tried to find a picture that shows me how many freeze plugs the engine has and where they are located. Unfortunately I did not even find a hint. Can someone help me? And what's the best way to get the old ones out?
I looked into the manual yesterday and tried to find a picture that shows me how many freeze plugs the engine has and where they are located. Unfortunately I did not even find a hint. Can someone help me? And what's the best way to get the old ones out?
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: North Jersey, New Jersey
They are located towards the bottom of the block.
A screw driver works to remove them a socket and a hammer is a good tool to reinstall them.
It is a little cramped around them so be sure to take your time and have your tools ready.
A screw driver works to remove them a socket and a hammer is a good tool to reinstall them.
It is a little cramped around them so be sure to take your time and have your tools ready.
Last edited by krankshaft; Mar 11, 2006 at 05:39 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kiev, Ukraine
There are 3 plugs in the engine block (2 - pass. side, 1 - drv. side). 2 plugs in each head. It is easier to replace plugs in the block from underneath (remove the oil filter before). I use a big screwdriver and hammer to get old ones out.
Remove plugs from head from under the hood (remove PS pump and alternator before) and from the insede the cabin (there is a hatch), but remove a coil before.
I used RTV with new plugs to prevent leackages.
It is easy to make new plugs. You need to find a shop with lathe. Cheap job here. I made them of stailess steel.
Remove plugs from head from under the hood (remove PS pump and alternator before) and from the insede the cabin (there is a hatch), but remove a coil before.
I used RTV with new plugs to prevent leackages.
It is easy to make new plugs. You need to find a shop with lathe. Cheap job here. I made them of stailess steel.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Orland USA
tomucen:
Go here http://jthill.herringtontech.net/aerostar/engine.html
and you can see where they are.
The Block uses 5 of them that are 1 1/2"
The Heads use 4 of them that are 1 1/4"
JaY
Go here http://jthill.herringtontech.net/aerostar/engine.html
and you can see where they are.
The Block uses 5 of them that are 1 1/2"
The Heads use 4 of them that are 1 1/4"
JaY
Elder User
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From: North Jersey, New Jersey
You'll also notice in one of those pictures is the block coolant drain screw directly under the drain plug which I was able to break loose during my coolant flush in addition to draining the radiator prior. I wanted to drain as much coolant as possible.
Since your replacing the plugs you may want to try to remove it and put some anti-sieze on it.
Since your replacing the plugs you may want to try to remove it and put some anti-sieze on it.
Last edited by krankshaft; Mar 12, 2006 at 12:32 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: brooksville, florida
be warned this is a really akward job to do it is really difficault to get at the freeze plugs with the engine in place. Taking then out is not the hardest part putting them back in is, you can't get a good straight hit on them with a hammer which you need to do to be able to put then back in correctly. I found a small bottle jack and some 2x2 wood helpfull to get them back in, you have to place the wood on the frame rail then the jack with a socket the right size to fit inside the freeze plug, once you have got them started with the jack you can then tap them in the rest of the way with a small hammer.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kiev, Ukraine
I dont know why, but for me it is easier to put it them in! I use hammer and a little bar to do it!
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From: Washington state
unless you are having a freeze plug leak problem, I would leave them alone...with full flush and antifreeze change every 2 years and using only distilled water, the freeze plugs will last as long as engine rotating components...
if you rebuild engine, change freeze plugs then, coat inside and out with this or similar product prior to install and let dry...will outlast driver
http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Tack_Gasket_Sealant.htm
i use this every fall...many similar anti corrosion water pump seal lubricant products
http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_vehcare_lub.htm
if you rebuild engine, change freeze plugs then, coat inside and out with this or similar product prior to install and let dry...will outlast driver
http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Tack_Gasket_Sealant.htm
i use this every fall...many similar anti corrosion water pump seal lubricant products
http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_vehcare_lub.htm
Last edited by 96_4wdr; Mar 14, 2006 at 07:06 AM.
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thanks for info. The engine is dry so I'll leave them alone. I am due for a coolant flush anyway next month. And the spark plugs are due in summer so I will get my share of bruised knuckles anyway.....
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Southern California
Originally Posted by tomucen
thanks for info. The engine is dry so I'll leave them alone. I am due for a coolant flush anyway next month. And the spark plugs are due in summer so I will get my share of bruised knuckles anyway.....
What size of engine do you have? 3.0L or 4.0L?