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Ignition Wiring Hell

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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 12:36 PM
  #1  
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Unhappy Ignition Wiring Hell

Hey guys

I got my ignition switch replacement in the mail yesterday. It is definately different from the old original.. This one is 12v, has 4 posts instead of 3.. I think it was made incorrectly because the Battery post is the long one, not the ACCY post.. idiots..

So anway, the directions that came with it from MidFifty are not for push-start ignitions.. I wired it all up and everything was running.. Truck fired up, radio worked, all gauges worked.. but then the truck started running funny (slow sputtery idle) and liquid gasoline was sprayed on the grass out of the exhaust pipe. (guess it could have been flooded) Also when I would touch the door I would get shocked.. (didnt do that before.. no ground wires before either)

I've emailed Midfifty for the other directions but of coarse they haven't replied.. I sent them an email Monday and they didnt reply to that one either.

Anybody have a diagram of how to wire it without screwing stuff up?

Also I have a CD Player, it has a red and yellow wire that were on the previous ignition switch on seperate posts. Should I put them on seperate posts this time too or put them both on ACCY post?

As you can tell I'm an idiot with wiring..
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 02:04 PM
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Also:

Its a 55 F-250 and I have pictures in my gallery of the Original switch and the new one.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 02:05 PM
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I've got nothing on the ign. switch, but on the cd player, red should be switched power, yellow should be constant 12V.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 03:56 PM
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OK so Red to the ACCY post, and Yellow to Battery post.. got cha

Anybody else? Ignition switch?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 04:26 PM
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I would guess you have the following posts

1) voltage supplied from battery

2) voltage that turns on with ignition runs gages etc.

3) start position supplies voltage to solenoid

4) accessory turns on the radio and anything else you might want to turn on and not have gages on or the truck running.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 05:36 PM
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Battery, Ignition, Starter, Accessory,

That is correct.

The original had three posts, didnt say what they were on the switch but it was Battery, Ignition, Accessory

Now theres a Starter post.. I tried to wire it the original way but then I would get shocked sometimes if I touched the door.. also it started running funny but that could have been something else..

I dont have the switch installed right now, but I had it hot wired and was driving around today. The idle now seems sluggish and low.. actually cut off once today..
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 06:56 PM
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Hey Jeff, What do you mean by "no ground wires before"? I can't recall ever feeling a shock from 12vdc, besides if you had some sort of short to ground something should have melted. I have definitely been shocked by 24vdc but usually only in the summer when I am soaked with sweat. Almost sounds like a plug wire shorting to ground (the body) which might account for the engine running funny. Also, you could use the starter post to delete the pushbutton and start with the key. I suspect you already know this and like the pushbutton.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 07:22 PM
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Yea I like the push button

So.. the plug wire that you speak of... I guess this would only happen if it were touching the metal dash or something? I don't think any of the wires were touching the body or anything.. that is unless theres a wire that is pushed up behind the dash that I'm not accounting for.. but I don't think thats the case either

I'll take a look..

How would that effect the way the engine runs?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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Your profile says you have a 55...Did that have a negetive or positive ground? Do you have a resister wire or an ignition resistor going to the distributer/coil? Just thinking out loud,what was different from beginning to now?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by seetwisted
Your profile says you have a 55...Did that have a negetive or positive ground? Do you have a resister wire or an ignition resistor going to the distributer/coil? Just thinking out loud,what was different from beginning to now?
Unfortunately I don't know any of that.. I've had the truck for 3 weeks and I'm pretty much an idiot lol

The difference from then to now is that now I have a new ignition switch, the doors shock me, and the engine runs weak..

If you've got time school me on pos/neg grounding and resister wires.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 11:20 PM
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Ok...

I don't know if this can help you,but you might learn something you can teach me some time.Older/6 volt systems had the positive lead on the battery going to the frame instead of the negetive like newer vehicles.It can be a little confusing (or,a lot in my case) when you change over the system and don't pay attention to polarity.I got rid of a nice 52 merc with electrical problems...I wish I had kept. There is an ignition/ballast resistor between your switch and coil or on some vehicles, a resistor wire...If you had the wire,and some how deleted it in the wiring or rewiring of the ignition switch you would end up with too much power going to the points.I have seen guys stick their points together this way...motor no run no more.I think maybe I'm still just thinking out loud again. Maybe some one else can chime in now and help you...us.I'll check this thread tomorrow with a clear head and maybe be less confusing.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2006 | 12:06 PM
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OK I've got some new information..
I've had the truck hot wired to drive it..
Well today, the small bolt that I had connecting the two wires got super hot! I touched it and it burnt my finger. I only drove for about 15 minutes!
It didnt do this previously.. I could take out the bolt without getting burnt!
 
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Old Mar 10, 2006 | 01:16 PM
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Hey guys
One more thing..

I've got a bad switch >

The one I bought from Mid-Fifty was made wrong.. the plastic piece that identifies which rod is which is either turned one post too many, or the battery rod was made long and not the ACCY rod..

If I had it wired with all of the Battery connections on the Ignition one, all of the Ignition ones on Accessorie, and Accessorie on Battery, would it have caused all of these problems?

But what about the very HOT hot-wire?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2006 | 08:07 PM
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From: las vegas nv.
u-u-uh,I think I would get that switch switched...and start again. Knowing where the wires go is real helpful.Look at adding a fuse block,I put 3 in mine,BAT,IGN,ACC.The new push in style and I try to fuse EVERYTHING. As I re-wire,I fuse.Next, is relays for the headlights. After the switch,keep us updated.
 
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