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i have been reading the posts about testing the gp. do u have to unplug the wire or leave it on the gp? does the ignition have to be on? Also can someone post a diagram of how u wire for a push button gp controller. (manual)
Unplug the wire. Keep the ignition off. If you replace any gps use only motorcraft/beru. Are you having problems with them? Do you know where your controller and relay are? There is a white wire on the relay. Disconnect it and tape the end. From the terminal that had the white wire, run a new wire to a push button switch, and then to a good ground. Use it no more than 8 to 10 seconds. In warm weather you might not need it at all. Make sure if someone else drives the truck, that they know what to do. If you still need a picture, I think I saw one in a thread recently, I'll look for it.
If you change any gps, clean the area with air hose first. Spray a little PB blaster around each one ahead of time. Use anti seize when you replace them, and be careful of the torque. If you have any problem getting them out, don't force anything. Post back before you have a bigger problem, so we can help.
If any connectors are bad you can replace them with electrical crimp connectors. If you have bad insulation, you can use a double layer of heat shrink. Good luck with it. Take your time and be careful.
Last edited by trike1946; Mar 9, 2006 at 06:02 AM.
thank u for the help, yes ive been having a problem with them since i put the engine back in from replacing head gaskets. seemed as if they werent right before the pull but since back in the wts light stays on bout 5 sec and then goes off. another ? for someone is it possible to test the block heater? i plug it in over night and it dont seem to help jus wonderin how reliable the actual block unit is (have many probs?) thank u for the help again
When you test the gps you will probably find a few bad ones, since the wts light is only on for 5 seconds. Be very careful taking them out. Do not force anything. If any are stuck, post back. Don't take a chance on a burnt tip falling into the cylinder. I'm not sure about how to test the block heater. Never did it. We all have problems. Just take them one at a time and ask for help. A lot of smart people here. They help me all the time.
I have to know if it is a 83 thru 86 6.9
Or an 87 6.9 thru 94 7.3
The controllers are different.
Block heater tests.
Continuity meter will show continuity if the heater is good.
Ohm meter will show almost a dead short, the exact wattage will determine how close to a short it will be.
Last edited by Dave Sponaugle; Mar 9, 2006 at 09:22 PM.
Dave - according to his profile he has a 91 f350 from VA. I'm not sure what year the 7.3 came to play
If he had an amp meter it should draw about 8-10 amps. for the block heater
Last edited by bigredtruckmi; Mar 9, 2006 at 09:37 PM.
The short glow plug cycle times are probably a dead glow plug or two.
The glow plugs should be checked before you convert to manual control.
To convert to manual, remove the white wire from the relay.
Attach a wire that will reach into the pasenger compartment.
Put the end onto a momentary switch.
Connect another wire to the other terminal of the momentary switch, this wire goes to a good ground.
To operate the glow plugs, turn the key to ON, push the momentary switch for 10 seconds or less depending on the temperature, turn the key to start.
The engine should be running.
If you have questions I will be here, my internet is a little funny tonight for some reason.
Last edited by Dave Sponaugle; Mar 9, 2006 at 09:54 PM.
air getting into fuel and allowing fuel to drain back towards tank - possibly from return lines on injectors (I had this problem) . Another area to look is the fuel lines from the tank. I had a small fuel leak under a fuel line clip on the frame. Once I fixed this it starts right up. If you never have changed the injector return lines - I would start there. They wont leak fuel out but the hairline cracks on the lines will let air in. Hope this helps.
One other thing - I would not use ether because with the glow plug system you could do major damage to engine.
Last edited by bigredtruckmi; Mar 10, 2006 at 11:16 AM.
If you are going to use ether the glow plugs must be disabled.
Check the ground wire on the controller, it is the black wire in the picture above.
It is usually under one of the mounting bolts for the relay/controller and may be corroded and not making a good connection.
The 'Wait to Start" light being on 20 or more seconds is an indication that the ground connection is not good.
I have never posted before so I dont know if I am in the right place, but I have the same problem as lomac9 except my wts light stays on only about 3 sec. so I took it to a guy that tested my gp and said 1 was bad but it would not come out and I would have to pull the head to get it out. my question is should I put a manual switch on it like shown above? any help would be apreciated, Thanks
maroondually, welcome to FTE. I want you to look at www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/
There you will see a section on removing gps. You might be able to get it out. And if the tip does break off, if the piston is in the right position, you might be able to blow it out or vacuum it out using the injector hole. What kind of gps are in the truck? You should be using motorcraft/beru only. You hava the newer style controller which is a little better. So the switch is up to you.