WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN EMISSIONS !!!!! 
efi to carb
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: maryland
efi to carb
i know there is probably forums on this topic already but my computer was being stubborn. i have a 88 f250 efi. i am changing it to carburated no matter what any one says. building the motor is no problem. but my problem is the wiring. i un plugged the main harness from the computer through the firewall. i have the upper intake off and have unhooked every connection there is. my only problem is that wires branch off the main motor harness and go to the plugs for the headlights. i dont want to cut the harness because id like to save it all so if i ever sell it they will have the option to convert it back if theyd like. Is there a way to pull the whole motor harness out and bypass that light part and splice into the wires. or is there any kits for this? or should i go to the junk yard and find an EFI 302 or 351 harness and cut that one right after the branch for the headlights? will that work? thanks
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
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From: south louisiana
When I swapped the carbed 5.0 into my 89 Ranger, I just left the EFI harness intact. The gauge wiring was separated from it as was the wires to the coil. Those are the only ones neccessary to use with a carb. Tape up the EFI plugs to keep them clean, and stow them out of the way in the engine bay. For an ignition, I just used a points distributor with a Pertronix unit and a points style coil.
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From: maryland
im not worried about emissions because im getting either "K" tags for farm tags. which ever i decide to get makes the vehicle exempt from inspection and emissions. so if a cop pulls me over for loud exhaust or tires and gives me an inspection ticket, i can rip it up and not worry about it. i dont want to leave the wires in there tho.
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Senior User
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From: maryland
today i went to the junkyard and got the another harness and it worked good. now my problem is what will i need. im not using the same motor because its blown. so im building a 350hp motor for it. will i need to take the fuel injection fuel filter off and put a regular one on there? and what about fuel pump? does that have to be changed? i think thats it.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
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From: south louisiana
If you're going to use the EFI fuel pump, you'll need a pressure regulator. A carb can only function correctly without flooding it with at MOST about 7 psi ( most work with less) the pressure only needs to overcome the float resistence to sinking, to fill the carb bowl(s) with fuel. An EFI pump supplies upwards of 60 psi. You may get by with a regulator without a return line, or not. Some pumps automatically shut off when the desired pressure is reached, some go continuously. I swapped to a cheap Purolator electric pump on my Ranger to carb it. ( $25-30 at Advance Auto Parts for the 30 gal/hr unit) This pump has supplied all my engine combos up to the 400+hp 331-sixpack.
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From: maryland
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
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From: south louisiana
Carb size has nothing to do with the pressure needs. ALL carbs, no matter which, only need 7 psi or less. Most use less. 7 psi is pushing it. As for flow ( gal/hr) that 30 gal/hr Purolator was enough to supply THREE Holley 250 cfm 2 bbl carbs at WOT for 1/4" mile runs and longer. And those carbs were linked mechanically, all three had accellerator pumps to feed as well.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: bucks.co pa
go with old eec stuff. easy to find harnesses at any boneyard. ive posted many ? on this,and was pointed in the right direction. just retard your timing if you go for emissions. theres only 10 wires to deal with, and i swapped an 86 efi 302 into a 84 carbed 150.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: maryland
ok i have gotten the motor out and im taking it apart. since its fuel injected, i was thinking doesnt that cam gear have to be different? do i need a diff. distributer or can you change the gears? isnt one bronze and one steel or copper or something?
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
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From: south louisiana
The timing gears are all interchangeable. The dist gear depends on the cam, roller cams need steel gear to match the cam. Flat tappet cams need iron distributor gears. Bronze gears will work with either, but don't last long, best used only in a race motor that sees frequent tear downs. An injected motor will also not have a fuel pump eccentric to drive a mech. fuel pump.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: maryland
ok well im getting a flat tappet cam. this isnt going to be a race motor. its going to pretty much be a daily driver from my house to school. the distributer has a big plug going into it. so im guessing it is computer controlled too. do i have to get another dist. or what? because i fixed the headlight problem but everything else is cut off the harness i bought. the alternator has to big plugs going into it. so would you recommend getting new dist. and alternator so it wont be computer controlled or try to find another harness.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Troy,NY
Distributor you have a couple of choices. You can get a 1 wire chevy style. I have a mallory one it's easy to hook up but it is big. It will limit the size of your air filter. You can get a stock ford duraspark distributor and control box. Another option is a duraspark distributor with and aftermarket box like an msd.
For your alternator you might as well upgrade to a G3 taurus alternator. Here's a link to wiring it in. Go down the list to G3 install.
BC bronco tech
For your alternator you might as well upgrade to a G3 taurus alternator. Here's a link to wiring it in. Go down the list to G3 install.
BC bronco tech
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: maryland
yea my stepdad has some of those old singel wire chevy style. im not worried about size because the only accesories on the front of the motor will be power steering pump and alternator. so i think there will be plenty of room in the front.