How to you route the few lines in the front end part do you run them up under frame motor mounts or straight on through frame past mounts. Installing new rubber lines from rear to front and dont know how to route them.

 

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2 or 4wd? The 2wd routes behind the steering box (between frame and box) and then through frame perch to fuel pump area. 4wd is routed a little differently. Let us know.
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all rubber line seems kinda scary steel would be cheaper and just as easy not to mention a little safer and has a better life span, just something to consider

 

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Good advice Otto, I missed that on the original post.
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I definitely would not run rubber all the way. It's cheap and
easy to reconstruct a new steel line from universal pieces you
can buy from the auto parts stores.

 

4 wd You have to bend the line your self, and steel lines are not cheaper i have nine dollars in my whole fuel line.

 

I realize you weren't looking for advise and just needed info. Please indulge me for one more: Keep you seat belt loose. At some point you going to need to get out in a hurry.

Matt Miller

 

Unless it's a complete restoration, which I kinda doubt, What difference does it make so long it's kept away from the manifolds?

Trail Rider

 

old saying goes: "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR" so if money is a factor i would park the truck and ride a bike or take a bus.


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you ask what difference does it make? whether you run all steel or all rubber fuel lines? first of all if it was OK to run all rubber fuel lines dont you think the factory would have done it? with it being faster and easier. but they didn't, and what happens if your line comes in contact with the frame? you get a leak. i dont know if you plan on taking the truck to the dragstrip, but if you do they will kick you out faster than a 9 sec. mustang. you are only allowed to run no more than 12" total on the complete truck, of rubber line. its just not meant for that. but if you decide to do it anyways, i suggest you buy the largest fire extinguiser, you can and get a large life insurance policy, for your loved ones.
matt

 

OK guys here we go again, when I bought the 77 camper I have now the old farmer had copper tubing for brake lines and he also used copper for the fuel lines. Other than it being a softer metal to work with and easier to bend is there any other drawback using copper? I replaced the brake system because I wasn't comfortable using copper on hydrolics but on an old fuel pump/carb system where there is no pressure, in your humble opinions what's the harm? The copper won't rust out like the steel obviously did and the steel would be cheaper for the factory in the manufacture.

 

 

>I replaced the brake system because
>I wasn't comfortable using copper
>on hydrolics but on an
>old fuel pump/carb system where
>there is no pressure, in
>your humble opinions what's the
>harm? The copper won't rust
>out like the steel obviously
>did and the steel would
>be cheaper for the factory
>in the manufacture.

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It's called work hardening - the change from a soft, ductile material to a hard, brittle material. I would not use copper lines unless it was a TEMPORARY emergency fix. Your instinct was correct with the brake lines, but don't take chances with a fuel line either.

tra:
I recommend using a steel line and supporting it properly to prevent damage. A cracked fuel line could cause a disaster! The cost difference is negligible when considering the possible consequences.

A couple years ago I was trying to get a '77 Ranchero running that sat out in a farmer's field, and the rubber fuel lines were all dried out and cracked. As I cranked the engine over the pressurized fuel line was squirting a stream of gas right onto the distributor cap. Yep, you guessed it, I set a land speed record sprinting to get the fire extinguisher. Fortunately I got the fire out before the 400 was hurt, but it was one heck of a mess.

If one absolutely insists on substituting flexible line for brakes, fuel, or oil, steel braided line with quality AN hose ends and connections is the way to go. This route is expensive and is much more immune to chafing, but it's what is required by the NHRA rulebook for anything in excess of the 12" of non-braided hose allowed. Remember, flexible lines need to be well supported also, so they can't be snagged and ripped off.

We're talking about a 4x4 here, which is usuallly used to drive over and through stuff. I always attach a steel line securely to the inside of the frame rails, keeping it away from the front driveshaft, exhaust, and everything else that could cause disaster.

Art

 

I read somewhere that you shouldn't use copper for fuel lines
because the gasoline reacts with the copper somehow. Believe
me if I could, I would go to the hardware store and buy one of
those chrome copper lines for a toilet and modify it for a carb
line, but I don't want to risk it. I have a rule that I always
try to follow when modifying automobiles. Try to consider and
copy what the factory does. There where people alot smarter than
I am who designed and tested components on vehicles for durability and safety.

 

yeah a tubing bender will cost you more than $9 but they aren't terrible expensive, or hard to use. I purchased one, and have used it to fabricate tranny cooler lines, and brake line out of steel tubing, not that tough to do.

BBT