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so there are only two electrical plug ins and two bolts to remove to get the alternator out of a 300, well the bottom bolt is also a pin and is rusted in very good (need a breaker bar to move it). i got the bottom pin/bolt unscrewed (as pictured below in a crappy CAD drawing) all the way, but its so rusted in that it wont just slide out. any ideas on what i can do to get that out? and what alternator do i need? 60, 65, or 70 amp?
try using wd-40 or breakaway to help loosen things up, or get an all tool (looks like a screw driver with a sharp point) and a hammer, then pound on the sucker.
as for amps, not sure but i'd say the 65, but dont take my word for it
1) spray bolt with the pb blaster and let sit2) get a pair of vise grips on the bolt head and turn back and forth while trying to pull the bolt out
3) wire brush the bolt and lightly coat with anti-seize before reassembly
this is what I have to do to get the bolt out as the different metals (steel bolt, cast housing, aluminum bracket) create alot of corrosion in the bolt hole. Hope this helps.
lone wolf is right on, PB blaster is the trick, penetrates far better than just WD 40. make sure and clean the bracket and the bolt well before reassumbly. as for alternators, you may want to consider upgrading to a high output if you're running many accessories...
I'll second the PB Blaster. The vibrations caused by tapping the bolt with a hammer after you've sprayed it will help it penetrate.
The OEM alternator that I got for my 300 a couple weeks ago is 61 amp. A common upgrade is the... crap... uh, G3? I forget, it's the one that comes out of newer 302 Mustangs, I think it's up around >100 amp. Though I've heard that if you increase the amps going through your electrical system it's a good idea to upgrade certain crucial wires.
here here to uprgrading wires... can anyone say "oh s*** there's flames coming out of the hood... quick quck throw dirt on it..."? a fire extinguisher or shirt would have worked better, never go four wheeling shirtless...
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