Help with brakes!!
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Senior User
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Help with brakes!!
I've got a 76 F100 2wd with manual brakes (disc front drum rear). For as long as I've been driving it, I've had to double or triple pump the brake pedal to stop. Bleeding the system only lasts a couple of weeks. Last night I let my girlfriend drive my truck and the idiot light for brakes came on. She's about a foot shorter than me so I guess it's the fact she wasnt pumping them far enough. Her dad says I need a master cylinder. My dad says I need new rear wheel cylinders. I think I need new lines and a new m/c. Any ideas what would cause this? Thanks for any help in advance.
-dan
-dan
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 828
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From: Baltimore
Are you continually adding fluid to the system? If so, there should be a whole lot of "wet" somewhere between the master cylinder and the wheels. In that case, your master cylinder is probably ok. In this case you have wheel cylinders or a brake line leaking.
If you don't need to add fluid, there is no leak in the brake system and the problem is with your master cylinder. It is conceivable that if your master cylinder isn't generating pressure on the front (or Rear) brakes, the brake light would come on. In this case, you need to replace the master cylinder.
If you don't need to add fluid, there is no leak in the brake system and the problem is with your master cylinder. It is conceivable that if your master cylinder isn't generating pressure on the front (or Rear) brakes, the brake light would come on. In this case, you need to replace the master cylinder.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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There has been a breach of the hydraulic system.
Do you and anyone else who drives that truck a favour, do a compltet inspection of the braking system.
I suggest the M/C needs replacing to start.
Whalerron touched on anything I was going to mention.
Do you and anyone else who drives that truck a favour, do a compltet inspection of the braking system.
I suggest the M/C needs replacing to start.
Whalerron touched on anything I was going to mention.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: west central florida
if you are NOT losing any fluid you might need to adjust the rear shoes, when you pump them there is a valve that keeps them out for a short time, so it seems like they are fine, then you drive a bit further and they have lost pressure and are out of adjustment again and requiring a long pedal stroke or pumping to engage them..........just another thing to check
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I've had the rear brakes adjusted before and one wheel cylinder replaced.. im not losing any fluid, so i guess its the m/c.. I'll go ahead and get one.. I do have one other question: should i leave it manual or upgrade to power brakes? I have no problem with manual, but i plan on adding a rear disc kit in the future and i dont know if a manual m/c could support the rear being discs.. thanks for all the help..
-dan
-dan
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Senior User
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I do plan on purchasing a rear disc brake kit, but not anytime soon... i already have front discs but my main question on my last post was whether or not i should upgrade to power brakes if i do plan on putting discs in the rear, or if the manual m/c would be enough.. I dont want to put a new manual m/c in and then later on when i install rear discs find out that the m/c doesnt have enough power to support rear discs.. I'd much rather go ahead and get a power m/c if i need it.. but if i dont then i wont.. thanks
-dan
-dan
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Sorry, I mis-interpreted your post and forgot to reread the first post.
You are way better off with power brake as opposd to non-power.
You may need a different proportioning valve and Brake pedal assembly though.
I'm pretty sure there is a difference.
You are way better off with power brake as opposd to non-power.
You may need a different proportioning valve and Brake pedal assembly though.
I'm pretty sure there is a difference.
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Yes, install the power booster with master cylinder. Can be bought as a complete set (booster and master cylinder) at most auto part stores. If you do this power booster conversion, you will need additional parts.
process of bleeding brakes - Use an old push rod or something that is long and has a round point, when bench bleeding your brake master cylinder. Make the master cylinder reservoir is about 3/4 full of clean brake fluid, and the two rubber hose coming out of the the holes on master cylinder are submersed in the brake fluid during the whole bench bled process. Push in the piston on master cylinder till it bottoms out, there should be no air coming out of the hoses when you have completed bench bleed process. Process should take about 45 minutes.
process of bleeding brakes - Use an old push rod or something that is long and has a round point, when bench bleeding your brake master cylinder. Make the master cylinder reservoir is about 3/4 full of clean brake fluid, and the two rubber hose coming out of the the holes on master cylinder are submersed in the brake fluid during the whole bench bled process. Push in the piston on master cylinder till it bottoms out, there should be no air coming out of the hoses when you have completed bench bleed process. Process should take about 45 minutes.
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Here are articles on rear disc brake conversion https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...brake+to+power
Here's an article on the power booster conversion https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...brake+to+power
Try a search on "power booster conversion" on the search engine.
Here's an article on the power booster conversion https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...brake+to+power
Try a search on "power booster conversion" on the search engine.