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I bought a 74 F250 Ranger XLT CS about a month ago.I'm not real familiar with Ford trucks, but theres two switches for the tanks. Theres one at the heater control and another on the floor at the drivers door.(manual) Its a brass handled valve. Is this factory stuff? Why two? Oh, by the way, I love this old truck. Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Well I don't think that the 2nd brass valve would be factory. My 1978 f250 has the switch by the heater and thats it.
There shouldn't be a need for the 2nd one.
Whaddya think guys?
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 27-Feb-01 AT 00:39 AM (EST)[/font][p]The older trucks, don't know when they changed them, the switch on the dash only switched the gauges, the valve along side the seat actually shifted btwn the tanks. I've seen a valve in J.C.Whitney's that electricially shifts both tank/gauge with the dash switch, if you want to up-date it to a single operation.
Okay, that makes sense, because come to think of it, I don't hear any click of the solenoid from the switch at the heater control. Thanks a bunch guys.
Just for info my ' 77 camper has just the single switch on the heater control also. I am in the process of replacing the rusted control valve under the truck as soon as I get around to it. (also will install steel fuel lines.)
Cal
It’s a two-way valve (one for each tank) plus a shutoff valve. Whenever I park for a while, I switch it to the OFF position. Heard of one fellow who recovered his truck from a theft just because of that. Anybody know what year that manual valve went away?
On my 1972 ...it had the `manual` valve in the cab to the left of the seat on the floor.
The `dash switch only changed the gauge.
I have since removed the manual valve and installed a solenoid valve `under` the cab on the frame rail.
Now... the factory gauge has extra wiring to actuate the (new)solenoid.You have to supply 12 volts to it!!!
If you install the new solenoid set it up so the `behind the seat` tank is the `main` tank. and the coresponding tank gauge will read when switched...
that way you only send `power` to the solenoid when you want to run on the `frame` auxilary tank.
If you should have a solenoid failure it will fail to the `main` tank.
Put a filter on each tank line to the new solenoid.
__JOHN__Õ¿ö
FTE Club #7
Member-
http://www.cruisin-north.com/
Santa Rosa, Calif.
72 F-250
ICQ#6030753
http://www.ford-trucks.net/users/jbhf250/
https://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1972_f250_2.html
Yup, my 72 is the same way, except that I have three tanks, so my floor valve has four positions: Main, left tank, right tank, and off. My dash switch, like yours, simply switches the fuel gauges. With that much capacity, I never run out of petrol
If your knuckles ain't bleeding you did something wrong.
'72 F-250 "Hi-Boy" 4x4, Dana 60/HD44, FE390 @ 400hp(purt near!), 4-speed, custom suspension w 4" lift, mud on black.
My 74 has the dash switch and the floor valve, I belive the year for change to the selinoid tank valve controlled by the dash switch was 75, my 74 switch went bad, had only 3 terminals, ordered a 75 switch 5 terminal and will install a selinoid valve soon. The floor valve leaks when I switch tanks. Can you repack the valve?? Guess it does not matter since will be installing the electric deal.
My '75 has a floor switch, but it was not equiped with factory dual tanks, so it has no switch or guage for the aux. tank, just have to guess if its empty or not. Could someone tell me the positions for these floor valves?
Well, positions will vary, for examply I have three tanks while you have two. But all you have to do is look under the truck where the tank lines come in, and the main fuel line goes out. Your valves posistion will match the positions of these lines.
If your knuckles ain't bleeding you did something wrong.
'72 F-250 "Hi-Boy" 4x4, Dana 60/HD44, FE390 @ 400hp(purt near!), 4-speed, custom suspension w 4" lift, mud on black.