Garage construction question
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: MN
Garage construction question
Anyone have any good ideas on how to get trusses up on the frame without using a crane. They are a 33' span. I've got lots of help and we don't want to foot the bill for the crane.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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The classic way to do it is to flip the truss upside down. Set the top chord on one end on the top plate of one wall. Slide the truss outward enough so that you can set the top chord on the other end on top of the other wall. Now the truss is resting upside down on top of the two walls. Walk the truss down the wall like this until it is almost in the correct position.
Now stand the truss upright by rotating it about its long axis. You need a push stick or some scaffold to do this safely. At least three guys; one on each end and one with the push stick. Tweak the position and brace the truss to the adjacent erected truss.
Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions on temporary and permanent bracing; lots of workers have been killed due to unbraced trusses collapsing domino-style.
The biggest problem with this method is that trusses are very weak when loaded perpendicular to the plane of the truss. They have trouble supporting even their own weight. You must handle the truss very carefully when carrying it in anything but a vertical position, and when rotating the truss into its final home on top of the wall.
Now stand the truss upright by rotating it about its long axis. You need a push stick or some scaffold to do this safely. At least three guys; one on each end and one with the push stick. Tweak the position and brace the truss to the adjacent erected truss.
Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions on temporary and permanent bracing; lots of workers have been killed due to unbraced trusses collapsing domino-style.
The biggest problem with this method is that trusses are very weak when loaded perpendicular to the plane of the truss. They have trouble supporting even their own weight. You must handle the truss very carefully when carrying it in anything but a vertical position, and when rotating the truss into its final home on top of the wall.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I have set trusses over 50 feet long using the above method.
I did have 6 guys and scaffold set in the middle to help with the turning over to set upright part.
We carried the truss to the building and had ladders set at both corners of the building.
The two wall guys carried the truss up the ladders together till they could step on the wall.
A center guy helped get the truss over the wall and turned upside down.
Then the wall guys just walked down the wall carrying the truss.
Set it on the top plate close to where it needs to be in the upside down position.
Then roll it over and slide to adjust spacing and overhang.
Work from the far end of the building to the near end and take breaks as needed, tired people can get someone hurt.
When the truss is upside down while carrying it down the wall it is fairly strong, but it is very weak while laid flat.
I also would say that at least 4 people are needed, one on each wall at the truss ends, one on the scaffold to help turn it over and one on the roof to nail down the temp bracing to the truss and the ones already set.
I did have 6 guys and scaffold set in the middle to help with the turning over to set upright part.
We carried the truss to the building and had ladders set at both corners of the building.
The two wall guys carried the truss up the ladders together till they could step on the wall.
A center guy helped get the truss over the wall and turned upside down.
Then the wall guys just walked down the wall carrying the truss.
Set it on the top plate close to where it needs to be in the upside down position.
Then roll it over and slide to adjust spacing and overhang.
Work from the far end of the building to the near end and take breaks as needed, tired people can get someone hurt.
When the truss is upside down while carrying it down the wall it is fairly strong, but it is very weak while laid flat.
I also would say that at least 4 people are needed, one on each wall at the truss ends, one on the scaffold to help turn it over and one on the roof to nail down the temp bracing to the truss and the ones already set.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2005
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save your back! sheet the gables on the ground and get everything ready before the crane gets there. cut a bunch of 25 1/2 strips of plywood (osb) and put a nail in each end. these are great for temp bracing for the guys trusses so they can keep the crane moving. have someone else follow up with 2x bracing. $80-100 per hour for the crane and shouldnt take more than an hour including setup (assuming straight run, gable roof). spend the rest of the day sheeting. how much does a chiropractor cost these days?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I have not seen a courtesy boom truck for years here in WV.
Crane charges are always extra to set them on the roof.
Courtesy crane gets them on the ground off the truck.
Crane charges are always extra to set them on the roof.
Courtesy crane gets them on the ground off the truck.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2001
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I installed 24' spans by myself. I put one end up on one of the sill plates then went to the other end and put it on my shoulder and walked it up the step ladder. I had a scaffolding set up in the middle and with a rope I pulled the peak up. I had 2x4's marked at 2' on center so I could position the peak correctly and then nailed it off with a air nailer. I then went to the sill plates and secured the ends in the proper locations. This was only one story garage with a 4/12 pitch.
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Brett Foote
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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I woudl foot the bill for a crane. Save you backs for somethign else. Have your temp braces ready. You can have them up much fast and get the sheeting going. Just my 2 cents. That is the way we set them on all our pole buildings. Our crane guy can set them right where you wnat them no chance of them slipping and getting damaged.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Its not really hard.. Best way is to have them delivered on the end of the building laying flat. make sure an end truss is on top.You take the farthest end one and put it up and plywood the seam level the gable wall and plumb the truss brace it to the ground in many places. All the remaining will be off that one so make sure its right. You are ready to go. I use 2x4's for cross bracing one at the 6 ft level and one near the top. Big danger of high winds taking trusses down B4 the plywood goes on brace to death to the deck..If the trusses are on the ground you have to pull em up if you can't walk inside and put it up on the wall.
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Senior User
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From: MN
Thanks for all the advice. We started today. The trusses are a 32' span and it was slow progress. We put them up by flipping them upside down and placing both ends on the top plates. We then rigged two 16 footers with a pulley on top to the back wall. With the pulley we winched up the trusses and fixed affixed them one by one. Phew, what fun.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
If you brace the top good you can tie a rope to the next truss top and the guy up top can pull it up with help from the guys on the ground with 2x4's with notches cut in them pushing up. Good luck
Dick
Dick
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