Another engine rebuild question (400)
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 606
Likes: 3
From: Colstrip, MT
Another engine rebuild question (400)
I have about $4000 to spend on an engine rebuild. Prerequisites are listed below.
1) I want to keep the original motor.
2) I want to keep the original 2 barrel 2350 holley carburetor.
3) I want to increase the hp without sacrificing any torque. Since this engine is rated at about 170 HP, an additional 30 - 40 HP would be sufficient.
What can be done to accomplish the task? Keep in mind that I am not an engine rebuilder myself.
I have one quote so far for $3500 to rebuild engine with flat top pistons and an RV cam. Price includes pulling engine, installing rebuilt C-6 transmission, rebuilding carburetor, and reinstalling engine.
Any thoughts? My goal is to have an original refurbished truck with a little more poop.
1) I want to keep the original motor.
2) I want to keep the original 2 barrel 2350 holley carburetor.
3) I want to increase the hp without sacrificing any torque. Since this engine is rated at about 170 HP, an additional 30 - 40 HP would be sufficient.
What can be done to accomplish the task? Keep in mind that I am not an engine rebuilder myself.
I have one quote so far for $3500 to rebuild engine with flat top pistons and an RV cam. Price includes pulling engine, installing rebuilt C-6 transmission, rebuilding carburetor, and reinstalling engine.
Any thoughts? My goal is to have an original refurbished truck with a little more poop.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 1
From: Earth
I would first get the specs on the "RV" cam and let us know what they are. Most of the builds around here really favor the Comp Cams Dual Energy cams, the 255 and 265 grinds specifically. You will see significant gains in HorsePower (around 300 hp) and Torque (around 350+ ftlbs), while still having a relatively gas freindly engine.
You deffinately want to go with an aftermarket timing chain setup, like a true roller from cloyes. If you can afford it, go for the Weiand or Edelbrock intake as well as a 4 barrel carb, like the Edelbrock 1406. You would be amazed that this really won't effect your mileage much and you will see good results. Additionally, I would get a set of headers, if not at the time during the rebuild, but maybe down the road.
Just my thoughts
You deffinately want to go with an aftermarket timing chain setup, like a true roller from cloyes. If you can afford it, go for the Weiand or Edelbrock intake as well as a 4 barrel carb, like the Edelbrock 1406. You would be amazed that this really won't effect your mileage much and you will see good results. Additionally, I would get a set of headers, if not at the time during the rebuild, but maybe down the road.
Just my thoughts
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 606
Likes: 3
From: Colstrip, MT
Thank You, 53fatfndr.
I do plan on doing the timing chain conversion. I can't talk to the rebuilder until Monday. The truck currently has the original air cleaner with the warmup for the carburetor. It idles nicely at 600 rpm when warm and about 1200 rpm when cold. I want to be able to retain these features.( I don't like cold blooded trucks.) Would the dual energy cam affect the items listed above?
I do plan on doing the timing chain conversion. I can't talk to the rebuilder until Monday. The truck currently has the original air cleaner with the warmup for the carburetor. It idles nicely at 600 rpm when warm and about 1200 rpm when cold. I want to be able to retain these features.( I don't like cold blooded trucks.) Would the dual energy cam affect the items listed above?
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 5
From: Delaware
Build it as a 1971 400. It had 260 Horsepower.
See http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/specs/specs02.html
Use Badger flattop pistons, and a Comp Cams 256DEH. Install the timing set 'straight up'
The original cam was a Dual Energy type with duration similar to the the Comp 256DEH. The Comp cam has a little more lift.
http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/parts/parts03.html
See http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/specs/specs02.html
Use Badger flattop pistons, and a Comp Cams 256DEH. Install the timing set 'straight up'
The original cam was a Dual Energy type with duration similar to the the Comp 256DEH. The Comp cam has a little more lift.
http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/parts/parts03.html
Last edited by danlee; Mar 4, 2006 at 08:23 PM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,068
Likes: 0
From: western montana
I'm curious...why are you set on keeping the 2bbl carb and intake? I'm thinking your looking to keep the 'stock' look? I can appreciate that...but...watching all that free hp and better mileage....go...down....the...well, you get the pic. take care and good luck!
I hope you provide feedback on the build. It would be interesting to hear about how it all works together..like the '71...it's an original build for sure!
I hope you provide feedback on the build. It would be interesting to hear about how it all works together..like the '71...it's an original build for sure!
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 606
Likes: 3
From: Colstrip, MT
I wanted to provide an update on this thread.
I had the engine rebuilt. The shop that did the work did an excellent job. It turns out that the engine had already been rebuilt once, so I ended up getting a remanufactured engine installed. The cam that was used by the remanufacturer was a Melling cam, which I am still trying to get the specs on.
There was a huge improvement in oil pressure. The pressure now runs at the midpoint of the oil pressure gauge when idling at 650 rpm. The timing is set at 9 BTDC.
The cooling problems that were evident before the rebuild, were still evident after the rebuild. Replacing the new modine 433 radiator with a 545 radiator and a new shroud, along with a NOS motorcraft fan clutch seemed to help. The modine 545 is a 3 core radiator, but it has the large tank(4") on top. Driving up a grade on a hot day now gives a maximum temp of 205 F. Before, the cooling system changes, the maximum temp would reach 220 F and noticeable engine ping. Yes, I also have the Robertshaw thermostat. I put in a 180, but I also have a 192 deg thermostat to install for winter time.
I also got the C-6 transmission rebuilt. Although, I didn't get what I wanted, I am still happy with what I got.
I had the engine rebuilt. The shop that did the work did an excellent job. It turns out that the engine had already been rebuilt once, so I ended up getting a remanufactured engine installed. The cam that was used by the remanufacturer was a Melling cam, which I am still trying to get the specs on.
There was a huge improvement in oil pressure. The pressure now runs at the midpoint of the oil pressure gauge when idling at 650 rpm. The timing is set at 9 BTDC.
The cooling problems that were evident before the rebuild, were still evident after the rebuild. Replacing the new modine 433 radiator with a 545 radiator and a new shroud, along with a NOS motorcraft fan clutch seemed to help. The modine 545 is a 3 core radiator, but it has the large tank(4") on top. Driving up a grade on a hot day now gives a maximum temp of 205 F. Before, the cooling system changes, the maximum temp would reach 220 F and noticeable engine ping. Yes, I also have the Robertshaw thermostat. I put in a 180, but I also have a 192 deg thermostat to install for winter time.
I also got the C-6 transmission rebuilt. Although, I didn't get what I wanted, I am still happy with what I got.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Another good cam for the 400 is the one Summit sells under their brand and p/n 5200. I put one in a stock 400 long block with a 2 bbl intake and Holley 500. Had headers as well. Really woke it up.
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