PYRO & BOOST GUIDELINES?

I just had pyro and boost gauges installed in my 2000, F-250, 7.3, 6 speed manual. I also just installed a Superchips program - the Performance Tow level - medium power. The truck carries a Lance cabover camper that has a total weight of about 3,000 lbs.

They mounted the pyrometer sensor on the cool side… past the turbo. I asked them why, and they said that this will prevent damage to the turbo if the pyro sensor breaks off.

I’m new to these kind of gauges and would appreciate some help on how to use them.

I have some questions like:

1. What should be the max temperature on the pyro… where I need to back off… or detune the Superchips program?

2. How do you use a boost gauge? Where should it be for best power? Best mpg?

3. They told me I could run my Superchips at Max Performance… the highest level… if I watch my gauges. What do you think?

Any knowledge and experience here will be appreciated.

 

I installed mine about a month ago, '01 250 auto. I'm told 1350 max for the egt's then you need to take your foot out of it. The boost guage doesn't affect mpg or power it is just for reference. I installed the boost guage in the air intake heater hole, Black Cloud Diesel offers a kit. Yes you can turn your chip all the way up just watch your egt's. I run my Bully Dog chip on the 110hp setting at all times, egt's rarely go over 100.

 

You really ought to have your pyro pre turbo, it's much more accurate there.

From what I've read by guys with both pre & post pyro's, you shouldn't go much over 900* post.

You shouldn't run much over 25lb boost with a stock turbo.

 

Your right clux! Keep the temp below 900*/post turbo. Safe limit pre turbo is about 1250*, rule is about 300* difference between the two options. You let it get to 1350 you'll be melting more than the pyro tip ! As for the boost gauge, when I set my chip past 80hp and nail down on it, it'll get 25lbs. on up, then I get the dreaded engine symbol , thats when it goes into the defueling mode! I need to get my regulator installed on the map line to prevent this !

superpony18, did you mean to say 1000* on your max temp?

 

yes, I did mean 1000. The pyro sensors deteriorate and won't pass through the turbo.

 

The guy I bought my gauges from Rockin S Performance have been working on diesels most of his life. He has two strokes that he runs and he says he PEGS the pyro (1600*) all the time. He has never seen an engine melt down; have you?

 

Powerstrokeme, yes I have seen a melted turbo on a semi, pulling a long grade with an idiot driving it. When asked what his pyro gauge said after finding out he actually had one (this was an owner/operator) he stated well it was only at around 1400 and I was told by the guy that installed the bigger turbo and turned the pump up that I could run it clear to 1600 sound familar? it actually melted the iron housing of the exhaust side of the turbo into slag. but I will add to the contrivoursy here it was post turbo with the probe, and all those that think that pre turbo is the only way to go really need to go look at what the big trucks run I haven't found one yet that is setup pre turbo they are all post turbo with not one exception. There is absolutly no difference in the accuracy pre or post the only difference is the range that you have to keep it within, exception to that is if you put the probe to far away from the turbo yes your going to lose some accuracy but installed correctly it's every bit as accurate. The best accuracy is mounting the probe as close to the turbo either post or pre as you can feasible mount it.

Also don't forget on a turbo atleast part of that thing is made from alum, and even though it's on the cool side and is supposed to be somewhat cooler than the exhaust housing the melting point of alum is only 1220 deg F, and heat will transfer if held long enough and hot enough.

 

egt's motoring isn't only for you turbo. pistons also melt and are made of aluminum whcih as stated before melts way before 1600 degrees!

 

You aren't monitoring EGT's to protect the turbo - it's the motor you are worried about!! If you get it hot enough to meld a turbo - the pistons are already damaged!! And POST-turbo temps are not AS accurate - the temps can vary as much as 400* from pre-turbo readings, AND they change slower than a pre-turbo reading. YES you CAN get by with post-turbo readings, as long as you go by the possible 3-400* difference - but IMHO - pre-turbo is still the better way!

 

What do you think the post turbo pyro max temp should be? And where should I be running on average?

Also, do you have any simple explanation of how I should use my boost gauge for best performance and mpg?

 

from everything i have read post temp should not be above 900. boost more boost mroe performance. for mpg rpm is the key. 2000 rpm or below is what most have found is best. i have also heard that 600 degrees at cruising speed yeilds the best MPG. one guy said that that makes about 4 trips form michigan to alaska a year. so he puts alot of miles on.

 

Like most things, damage will result from a function of temperature and time. The amount of time for damage to occur at 1600* is significantly less than at 1300*.
I saw a dodge cummins that melted the plastic intake hose off the turbo last summer, burned valves on the same pull of about 18,000 pounds up a long hill at freeway speed. He said the post turbo egt gauge never went over 950*.

I have seen numerous cat 3208's that got hot enough that the pistons softened and compression blew holes in them.

As other's have said, aluminum melts between 1200* & 1300*. Your pistons are made of aluminum and are under enormous compression. Do what you like to your engine, but I back off at 1200* pre turbo.

 

The dodge that clux mentions with the post turbo pyro at 950 would have been past the safe point since you say it is a difference of 300 - 400 degrees he would have been above 1350. My Autometer instructions say "for non-turbo applications mount in the manifold, for turbo applications to mount post-turbo." What does everyone elses say?

 

Being a mechanic I've always seen post turbo about 1000 and pre turbo 1400. Your pistons should take this easily as long as your not holding it there for an hour. The pistons are aluminum alloy with oil cooling so they won't melt within the first few minutes. Post or Pre is a personal choice. Most semis have them post because there ain't alot of manifold space to put a preturbo.

 

I only have one thing to say about a boost gauge, you can equate it to a MPG meter ie less boost=better mpg, more boost/performance=dismal mpg but big grin factor. Hey, maybe it's a fun meter.