engine won't crank over
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
engine won't crank over
Hey all. My engine won't crank over. I've replaced the starter and had it tested, replace the solenoid on the firewall, had the battery tested, removed the spark plugs, cranked the engine both ways with a ratchet on the balancer bolt. I can turn the engine by hand using the serpentine belt. But the engine still won't crank over with the starter. Have any ideas?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
You have a bad connection. Clean BOTH ENDS of your positive and negative cables and the surfaces that they contact. Same again with your engine to chassis ground. One of those is going to be it.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,760
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
Need a lot more info...
Engine, tranny, what do the dash lights do, any noise fromt he relay or the starter..?
Have you checked for voltage at the small terminal of the starter relay with the key in START?
If none, check for the ignition switch and either the clutch interlock switch or the TR sensor switch to be passing power to the relay coil.
Have you tried jumping the relay?
Steve
Engine, tranny, what do the dash lights do, any noise fromt he relay or the starter..?
Have you checked for voltage at the small terminal of the starter relay with the key in START?
If none, check for the ignition switch and either the clutch interlock switch or the TR sensor switch to be passing power to the relay coil.
Have you tried jumping the relay?
Steve
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
4.2 engine. auto trans, lights look fine, I can hear the starter kicking out and making contact with the flywheel. It acts like it don't have the power to crank the engine.
I will check all the connections and voltage at the starter.
I will check all the connections and voltage at the starter.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
One of four cables has to have a problem if your battery has been checked and your starter is known to be good. Did you FOR SURE, FOR SURE clean and tighten all connections on all cables? They all have to be good to complete the circuit.
You can hear the starter engage, and it won't turn the engine. All there is in the starter circuit is the battery, cables, starter and solenoid. The block and chassis are conductors in the circuit too, so where the cables are attached has to be clean metal.
You can hear the starter engage, and it won't turn the engine. All there is in the starter circuit is the battery, cables, starter and solenoid. The block and chassis are conductors in the circuit too, so where the cables are attached has to be clean metal.
Trending Topics
New User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Take a set of jumper cables ; attach one end of one cable to the neg post on battery. Then attach the other end of the same cable to the engine block (Good ground) . See if engine turns over. A word of advice.... DO NOT buy crap starters from places like autozone, western auto, pep boys etc. Get a good one from NAPA. Been down that street before! (I own a 2003 4x4 F150 with 5.4; 1982 xlt lariat F150 ; 1959 F100 restored - listed in a gallery on this site (AR) )
restogreen
restogreen
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Right, and a simple check that may reveal the problem spot: Attempt to crank the engine as you have been. Keep the starter engaged for ten seconds. Then FEEL the cables and connections. If you find a hot spot, that is likely to be your problem area. Be sure that the battery is fully charged first. If the only thing that is hot is the starter, see post #8.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
I have replaced the ground cable today. I pulled the starter to make sure the flywheel is turning when I turn the engine, I checked the connections and triple checked the connections. I tried the jumper cables, I took the starter in to have it checked out again and they exchanged it. Still have the same problem.
I tried to let something get hot by holding the key over for 15 seconds. Nothing even got warm. I am so agravated with it right now.
This is the last time I buy a truck on looks. I'm getting real close to dropping this .40 over 350 with a 350 turbo down in there and be done with it.
I tried to let something get hot by holding the key over for 15 seconds. Nothing even got warm. I am so agravated with it right now.
This is the last time I buy a truck on looks. I'm getting real close to dropping this .40 over 350 with a 350 turbo down in there and be done with it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Nothing got warm? Did you feel the solenoid?
OK. Using the jumper cables, connect the pos directly to the starter hot terminal then touch the other end to the battery pos.
1: If it cranks, the problem is on the positive side of the circuit so replace the cable from solenoid to starter. Then try starting it normally. Still no start? replace the solenoid. Still no start? Replace the Pos battery cable to the solenoid.
2: If it does not crank, the problem is on the negative side. Replace the engine to chassis ground. Clean paint and dirt from the surfaces where the starter contacts the engine.
This is not all that hard, it's just that something is being overlooked. Use the process of elimination. You can do this.
OK. Using the jumper cables, connect the pos directly to the starter hot terminal then touch the other end to the battery pos.
1: If it cranks, the problem is on the positive side of the circuit so replace the cable from solenoid to starter. Then try starting it normally. Still no start? replace the solenoid. Still no start? Replace the Pos battery cable to the solenoid.
2: If it does not crank, the problem is on the negative side. Replace the engine to chassis ground. Clean paint and dirt from the surfaces where the starter contacts the engine.
This is not all that hard, it's just that something is being overlooked. Use the process of elimination. You can do this.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
The positive cable runs from the battery to the starter. A smaller wire runs to the solenoid. The solenoid looks like it is setup like a relay. There is only one more wire to try to replace. Thats the little one from the solenoid to the small post on the starter. I don't think that is it though.
I have no way of getting my jumper cables in to the starter. there is barely enough room for my hand to start the nuts.
I have no way of getting my jumper cables in to the starter. there is barely enough room for my hand to start the nuts.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Sorry, I was thinking remote solenoid.
How is your negative cable routed? Does it go to the block or to the frame? Have you identified an engine to chassis ground strap or cable?
Are you saying that the solenoid is mounted on the starter like a GM vehicle?
You had said solenoid on the firewall, do you mean starter solenoid (connected with battery cables,) or is it a relay?
How is your negative cable routed? Does it go to the block or to the frame? Have you identified an engine to chassis ground strap or cable?
Are you saying that the solenoid is mounted on the starter like a GM vehicle?
You had said solenoid on the firewall, do you mean starter solenoid (connected with battery cables,) or is it a relay?
Last edited by Bdox; Mar 2, 2006 at 08:56 PM.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
The negative cable runs from the battery to a bolt at the starter. A smaller wire runs from the starter ground to the frame.
I haven't seen a solenoid setup like this before, thats why I think it is a relay mounted on the firewall, because the positive battery cable runs to the starter.
Keep in mind I haven't worked on anything newer than an 81 ford before this.
I haven't seen a solenoid setup like this before, thats why I think it is a relay mounted on the firewall, because the positive battery cable runs to the starter.
Keep in mind I haven't worked on anything newer than an 81 ford before this.