whats everybody using...
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,248
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Felpro Gaskets, with a good bead of RTV silicone on the sides where the cork gaskets joins up with the gaskets for the cylinders (heads).
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Buck "RS 9000 going up front and back of the 1976 F150, Smoothing out my ride"
1975 Ford F150 4x4, 4 spd, NP205, 390 cid
1976 Ford F150 4x4, 4 spd, NP 205, 360 cid
1975 Ford F250 4x4, 4 spd, NP 205, 400 cid, Hi boy
1978 Ford F150 4x2, 5 spd, 302 cid
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Buck "RS 9000 going up front and back of the 1976 F150, Smoothing out my ride"
1975 Ford F150 4x4, 4 spd, NP205, 390 cid
1976 Ford F150 4x4, 4 spd, NP 205, 360 cid
1975 Ford F250 4x4, 4 spd, NP 205, 400 cid, Hi boy
1978 Ford F150 4x2, 5 spd, 302 cid
Last edited by 1975Ford; Feb 28, 2006 at 04:34 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
Victor NitroSeal from Napa. Plenty of black RTV in the where the heads/intrake/manifold meet and some around teh water ports. I also used the copper spray on gasket just to help on both sides of teh intake gasket.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
Likes: 35
From: Central Oregon
If you have the time, what I like to do is put down a bead of RTV on the ends where the cork gaskets are and use a spray sealer on the surface of the heads, then put the gaskets on and just sit the intake on the engine and let it sit a dry. Then pick the intake off and seal the tops on the gaskets and bolt the intake on. I do this so the cork stays in place and I get no oil leaks out of the ends.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 867
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From: Eastern Pa
Most here I believe throw away the end gaskets and just use a bead of silicone there. The ends tend to slide out easily otherwise. Try to make sure you seal everything well. Lots of posts on here about the intake sucking oil into the intake and burning it. Make sur your intake bolts are not bottoming out in the hole before they are up to torque if it's an aluminum manifold.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 375
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Originally Posted by FEmtnmax
I was going to try Mr. Gasket, as they have more squish to them than Felpro. Anyone use the MRG and had good or bad luck?
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 126
Likes: 1
What I do with mine is take a center punch and make a line of punch marks across both ends of the block and both ends of the intake then I use a bead of Ultra Black RTV on both ends. The punch marks keep the RTV in place just in case it doesn't adhere all the way across. And yes I do clean the surfaces with solvent, but sometimes you can get a little oil from your fingers on the surface without realizing it.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
From: East TN.
looks like its this weekends project. ive got a diesel powered 35 ton crane coming over to lift the intake (just kidding). hopefully this time itll seal and not suck through the intake ports. thanks for the responses. ill prolly go with the victor nitroseals.
FTE Legend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 53,911
Likes: 2,375
From: NY and VA
We used to do the center punch thing at the dealership, and it does work well. Some of the bigger trucks we had so much problems with, one of the guys would drill a few 1/16" holes in the block and insert 1/16" welding rod to keep the cork from sliding. We also made up a tool using an auto trans metal clutch disc with a bolt welded to it. This would screw into the carb where the air cleaner is bolted down. Insert pipe through the disc, two guys, one on each end of the pipe and another guiding the manifold in place. Another hint if you don't try to get the by-pass hose in at the same time as the manifold, is to cut a slight bevel on each end of the hose, this allows a little bend so it can slide in place. It's always fun...
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 669
Likes: 1
I also have been unable to locate the Mr. Gasket intake gasket. I had several people recommend the Mr. Gasket intake gasket. I went to one of their local distributors and they said it was not available for the FE's.
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