I have a 98 Ranger and it seems to be running a little rough out on the highway. What steps should take to get it running good, again? I 've changed the plugs(what a knuckle busting pain that was) but that didn't help much, I added fuel inject. cleaner that helped a little bit. But it's back to running rough again. My check engine light is on but a guy at Auto Zone told me that if it's not running bad or bothering me don't worry about it. At the time it wasn't running that bad. I cleaned the EGR valve and the light stayed out for about 3 days and it's back on again.

 

Wowsers.

That guy should get canned, especially since they are there to sell parts! Bad, bad salesman!

Anyway, ignore his advice and take our collective advice and get the code checked.

We can't help you unless we know what that code is.

That's all. No guessing games here.

 

year and engine would be nice, too.

 

If it's only on the highway at high speed I'd see if your driveshaft was balanced as well. Year, engine, tranny, rear end?

 

It is a 98 4X4 Ranger 6 Cylinder has over 100,000 miles. Where should I go to get the code checked?
Can local autoparts stores do this or do I have to take to Fords version of Mr. (Overpriced) Goodwrench?
I might be wrong (and I sure it would probably run better if I had a new EGR valve) but to me the whole idea behind the check engine lights etc. is just another way for dealerships make money, it's like they (all car manufacturers) have a scam going on? But that's my opinion. Any way please tell me more about the code check.

As far as the guy at Auto Zone goes he did put it on some kind of digital device and it came up, EGR valve, he said they don't sell them and that I would have to go to the local Ford dealer for a new one.

The drive shaft might be part of the problem too. It is due for some more teflon grease.

 

Is it a 3.0L V6 or a 4.0L V6?

You can call it a scam, or you can call it the fact that a computer can tell when the engine is running poorly better than the average driver. Also, in my opinion, now that there are some standards on code output, it allows shadetree mechanics like many of us a way to diagnose an engine problem more quickly.

The exact code that Auto Zone pulled would help, as often times people on this board can tell you the simple, inexpensive fix to save yourself from going to the dealer.

-Jim

 

Like I said I have a 98 Ranger 4X4. How hard is it to replace the EGR valve myself ? Is the threaded part underneath of it, what I need to take off ? Because mine looks pretty darn rusty ? I might have to get a gorilla to take it off for me !

 

Oh yeah I forgot is there any diagrams on this web site for EGR's ?

 

You didn't say if you have a 3.0 or 4.0 V-6 but on 3.0 it's very easy, one bolt under it holding the tube on and two bolts holding it to the intake.

 

Sorry, it's a 3.0 and I'm sure changing the EGR valve will help ! Thanks for the advice !

RangerPilot said something about checking the balance in the drive shaft too!
I'm not sure about the balance (and I'm sure this would cause it to be out of balance) but I do know that it's time once again for my front drive shaft yoke splines to be lubed with teflon grease.

This may sound crazy and maybe it is but I was thinking about taking off the front yoke and having it tapped out for a couple or maybe even 3 or 4 grease fittings so that all I would have to do ( when the splines needed it) is slide the boot out of the way and put teflon grease in the fittings ? Of course I wouldn't be doing the tapping for the fittings, I'd leave it to some pros for that.

Does anyone think this will work or am I just barking up the wrong tree?

 

The EGR code number you got would be helpful to have.

It may point to the DPFE sensor, which controls the EGR valve. The DPFE is a common problem, on EGR codes.

Don't know what to tell you on the grease fitting question.

It's best not to ignore a CEL. So IMHO you didn't get very good input from the AZ guy!!!!

You paid good bucks for a fine diagnostic system, so take advatage of it & get the computer scanned again & post ALL the codes found & the order in which they were extracted.

This system can be of great help in running down & helping you isolate problems.

 

Well I'll have to have it tested again that was a long time ago. Yes that darn lights probably been on for a year and a half ?

Yes, I was reading about the DPFE sensor in here. That sounds very possible ?

Does any body have any thoughts about the grease fittings in the yoke ?

Abbreviations abbreviations hmmm, I'm not sure what CEL or IMHO means but your probably right about the Auto Zone guy.

Sorry the diagnostics I got at Auto Zone was free ! It was just one of those hand held devices. But I still plan to take advantage of it, again.

Again, your talking about the little hand held diagnostic device right ?

 

Ok I had it diagnosed again and the code is P0 401, it said : The PCM has determined that there is insufficient flow in the exhaust recirculation system.

This was from a hand held diagnostic device from Auto Zone. Should I have it put on a bigger machine to get a more in depth analysis ?

 

Nope, I was talking about the diagnostics system in your vehicle!!!!

The one you seem to have such disdain for. After you get more familiar with it, you'll gain more confidence in it & develope more respect for it, I have!!!!

A year & a half is a very long time to ignore your CEL= Check Engine Light!!!!

You could be doing serious damage to some very costly emissions components, or your engine .

The computer is very sensitive to changes in the things controlling our engine, tranny, brakes & emission control systems, ect, so it has the ability, (through it's trouble code numbers) to tell us when & where it hurts & that helps us find & fix the problems faster.

It'll also help your Dealer the same way, so he's more likely to get it right & do it faster, the first time, so it can help save us money & prevent return servce calls, in the long run!!!!

Now if we learn how to read & interpret those trouble codes, we can do a better job of troubleshooting & fixing our own problems & put those savings in our pockets!!!!

Thats what a code reader can do, read & erase set cods.
A scan tool can do more, like monitor live feeds going to the computer, while the engine is running & that can help many times in finding dynamic occuring problems.

So have your favorite autoparts store scan the computer again for any stored codes & list ALL the code numbers they find & we'll all make our best guess as to your next best step.

BTW = By The Way, IMHO= In My Humble Opinion. LOL = Laughing out Loud!!!!

 

Dang I guess you posted while I was reading my mail.

Well the P0401 makes me want to put the DPFE sensor high on the suspect list.

I don't know long it's been since the computer was scanned, but if it's recently, say in the past month, maybe there aren't any new codes.

Why not look to the DPFE, its gaskets & hoses, or just replace it & see how things go. Most folks don't have lasting success in cleaning the newer ones.

If internal carbon buildup or a leaking or bad diaphragm is it's problem, just replace it.

Let us know how it goes.