I read a post on this previously, but it was for a carb'd engine. I am wondering what I would have to do in order to remove all of my emissions stuff, and still have a fuel injection setup on my 94 F-150 4x4. I am thinking about getting a Mega Squirt setup, and installing a MAF throttle body instead of the current SD setup. The reason I want fuel injection (I know it would be easier to just carb the dang thing) is because I do alot of offroading and I want an fuel system that will keep feeding my engine, regardless of what angle I'm driving at, or what type of G forces I'm pulling when doing doughnuts and other various "manuvers" (lmao, that sounded way to technical). I'm aware that there are "offroad" carbs out there, but do they really do their job. Any positive input on this would be great. thanks.

 

My guesss is the offroad carbs do their job, or they wouldnt be there, but for megasquit, its speed density anyway, it determines engine load by RPM and Throttle position. But hey, thats one less part to buy right? I plan on doing a similar conversion myself...

 

Right on, I wasn't aware of that. I thought I read somewhere that you had to convert over to Mass Air to use it... Oh well, one less part is right. Does MegaSquirt need the smog stuff to work right though? I'll look it up!

 

not that I am aware of. If I am not mistaken, to install megasquirt, it needs to be hooked up to fuel pump (or the relay for it), your injectors (in even or batch fire configuration), the negative on your coil (or tach drive for you lucky msd peeps), O2 sensor, TPS (throttle position sensor), coolant temp sensor, idle air temp sensor, and a ground as well as power for the whole unit. Its not to complicated. I think its round 15 wires all said and done (alot being ground) but its been awhile since Ive installed one.

 

Awsome! I really like the idea of doing it this way. Thanks for the input!

 

why do u want to swap over? nothing factory SD is good outta the box.

 

He wants the tunability of a carb and the reliability of fuel injection. SD is a good system, as long as its tuned, and it will be tuned so I see no reason why this shouldnt work. I cant wait for you to get it all up and running because I would like to see how the inline responds to a really nice 'part tuned' setup.

 

Well, I decided I am not going to put the MegaSquirt II system together myself, mostly because of time (something I don't have enough of); rather, I am going to buy it pre-assembled here http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/. So far, this is what is on the drawing board for my 300:

• Mega Squirt II Engine Management System
• DUI Performance Distributor (has a built in coil)
• Accel 8.8mm plug wires
• Accel 21 lbs./hr. fuel injectors
• Crane Cams Truck Power Cam
• Roller rockers (haven't decided the ratio, probably 1.7)
• Port and Polish heads (maybe some valve work, just depends)
• block will be bored between .060 and .080 over (theres gonna be figuring done between me and my machinist, but when I'm done, it will be 312 cubes, may have to do some machining on the crank bearing bores to get it just right)
• Getting a forged steel crank and having it balanced
• new (most likely forged) pistons and con rods
• all new hardware, gaskets, and bearings (obviously)
• Be Cool 4 Core Aluminum radiator
• Be Cool Dual Electric Fans
• 200 amp Powermaster alternator
• headers going into dual 2.5" pipes, Y'd to a single 3", and into a 4" chrome miter cut stack in the front passenger side corner of the bed

Thats all I have for the most part. My goal is 300 HP and 400 lb. ft. of torque at the wheels, and at a useable engine speed. Of course, There is a list about a mile long of what all this truck is getting, but this is and engine forum.

 

.060 TO .080 over? why? do u know anything about engines? u dont need forged crank or rods/pistons...ur pissing money out the window. same with the powermaster alt, try a 3g swap...cheap, easy and effective.

and why do u think u need the megasquirt? unless ur gunna be boosting its not neccessary. have a competant shop custom burn a piggy back chip for the ECU and ur good to go.

 

Maybe you don't understand. I know quite a bit about engines, and I know EXACTLY what I want. I don't build for mediocrity. I am building this engine up the way that I am for a few simple reasons. The main reason is to say that I’ve done it. Second, but most important reason I am doing this the way that I am is so that I won’t have to deal with internal parts coming apart. Everything that I do is overbuilt, ALWAYS. Here’s an idea, why don’t you go **** yourself out a window and stop trying to tell me how to spend my hard earned cash? Mkay, because I really don’t need some wet behind the ears jerk trying to tell me about something he has but the most minute concept of. Gehen Bumsen sich Sie dummes Stück Scheiße, guter Tag!

 

LOL if u only knew. how about u take ur ego and check it at the door. if ur to blind to realize theres easier, better and cheaper ways to go about things then perhaps u dont know as much as u think u do?

but what do i know, im just wet behind the ears LOL oh and thanx for the German lesson, real mature

 

how about you take your comments and your attitude and post them in a diffrent thread. Perhaps you don't get the point, if you don't like the way I'm building up MY truck, then just... don't post! Hey yeah, inovative idea right?

 

tisk tisk tisk, i guess u dont understand my point but thats cool...cuz u know EVERYTHING right. i like how u get all defensive when someone tries to help ya out. but hey, thats cool...cuz ur the man right?

i mean really, all the good engine builders automatically over bore an engine .060 to .080 and run forged internals on a mild engine. where were u when i rebuilt my 300? maybe ill have u help me and my friend build his 300 as well, cuz ur the man when it comes to this and me (and ill assume u'll mean my friends as well) are wet behind the ears.

but hey, like u said...its UR truck and ur gunna do it UR way. thats fine and im glad ur doing it ur way. but its not my fault u wont take others suggestions, research them and perhaps put them to use and save some greenbacks for other goodies.

have a good one

 

Hey Rot man, calm down. Hes right about some things. Unless your building it, and spraying it, you dont need the forged crank, connecting rods are already forged, and again, unless your boosting or spraying, the expansion rate of the forged pistons is just gonna cause more probs by "overbuilding" the engine. Im still a big fan of megasquirt. The reason I say you dont need the forged crank is because I called clifford performance, and figured if anyone would try to sell me one, it would be them. They say that unless you want more than 500 HP or FT lbs(or revving to ungodly high (read 6500 and up)) the forged crank isnt needed and the HUGE stocker will hold up just fine. Bored 60 over is gonna make it a 312, but supposed to make the engine not as reliable. I read it somewhere, and I think its kinda true, "I dont know many engines bored more than 30 over that last." BUTTTTT COL Flashman has a 312 in his truck, no probs yet. If your looking for that kind of power, you may want to go carbed just because that is a fairly common goal, see COL flashmans engine again, its a 300/400 monster. Im just not sure about the flow capabilities of an EFI motor (intake manifold and heads, because you cant really touch the combustion chamber without causing severe hot spots). I plan on using megasquirt for my boosted 300, perhaps look into that since it seems you have the money. Then you could still get the great (read crap) gas mileage of a semi stocker, and then have double the HP and TQ ontap.

 

i did forget Col has a 312. anyway, id look at his list of mods and model my build after that...its proven, all u would have to do is modify a few things for EFI purposes.