My daughter's first and last at the dealership was $658 IIRC. The labor is only 1 or 2 hours flat rate. Get a quote first.

 

The alternator was about $250 from Ford and if I remember right the charge 3 hours of labor (as I have stated, I did it in less than 2 both times). Labor is getting close to $100 an hour, so you could figure $600 and be safe.

As far as which direction does it come out... Pulley end is first but I do not remember the orientation. I think the 'pointed' side created by the mounting holes was down though.

 

I finally got the alternator out. I ended up having to loosen the engin mount and jack up the engin 1/2 inch. As npccpartsman mentioned it does go out pulley first.

Here are a few other tips:

If you can't get the CV Axle out of the hub Autozone rents this OEM/FWD Hub Puller (27037) | Axle Flange Puller | AutoZone.com

Don't bother trying to remove the CV Axle from the Intermediate shaft, take it out as one piece by removing the two 13mm nuts.

Don't reuse the spindle nut it should be replaced with a new one.

 

I didn't bother taking the axle out of the spindle. Take out the lower control arn bolt and the whole thing swings out of the way.

 

I just did this job yesterday, what a pain in the butt. After I finished, I talked to a friend that is a ford tech. He said that most of the techs he knows don't reinstall the plastic "ductwork" attached to the alternator. And, a trick to make life easier is to remove the nut from the mounting stud, turn it around and reinstall it on the stud, washer side out, then take the nut from the balljoint retaining bolt and thread it onto the stud(it's the same thread), lock them together and turn the stud out of the head. Then you should have enough room to drop the alternator out without having to jack the engine up.

 

ya I have to do the one in mine the bearings are singing, I 4 wheel mine a lot hunting and fishing, dont go in water up to the grill you'll be sorry

 

Hi All,

I would like to add the process for changing the alternator for 2010 Escape. I had spent numerous hours looking for the method or instructions online including this forum but seems everyone has these for either 4 cylinder or older model.

I actually regret buying this vehicle as I have long list of things that I have fixed or have costed money to get them fixed at the dealer. I can only thank Ford and its incompetences for this.

If you have Haynes Manual follow it for V6 2009 and above models and it is as simple as they have written.

Here goes the process;

1: Disconnect your battery
2: Remove the front right passenger tire.
3: remove the plastic covering by opening 2 screws and 4 plastic tabs in wheel well, remove 3 screws from the bottom and whole plastic cover should easily come off.
4: Now you should be able to see your drive belt as well as condensor and alternator.
5: Use 3/8 Socket Wrench driver directly into the tensioner pully and move it anti-clockwise to relive the tension off the belt. Remove the belt carefully. Would be good time to replace your belt if you haven't done it recently. (Mine had broken and nearly left me stranded on the HWY).
6: In case you dont have a sticker near radiator to show you how its routed, please make a note of the belt arrangement before taking it off.
7: Remove the two bottom screws from the condensor and one top screw. No need to remove the hoses which are attached to the condensor. Do remove the electric connection to the Condensor.
8: Let it hang gently down or use a string to hang it out of the way.
9: Now your alternator is easily accessible. Disconnect the ground wire which is attached with a nut.
10: Open the bottom screws, Now here FORD as usual and not tried to make it easier, they have screws with nuts here. (i am not sure what they are called). While I was opening mine one opened the nut with the screw and both came off easily. Other on nut came off and then I had to use 5mm socket (might be wrong on the size) to open this long screw. On top you will have a straight screw like the condensor.
11: At this stage you might want to hold it down and gently disconnect the electrical connection as they will be easily accessible.
12: Installation is reverse of the procedure.

 

It would be great if you would start a new topic about this, titled something like "Problems to date with my 2010".

I would like to see your list, and then we could compare lists, and I may get a hint of possible problems yet to come. I have done some preemptive repairs on ours, on problems I had heard about via Makuloco2000's posts, before ours got affected, thereby saving $$$ overall. Still, I shouldn't have to do things like that.

 

2009 are in front of engine alot easier.

 

When I did mine, I pulled it out through the top. A few things need to be moved (wire harness and the vaccuum tank). I used the scissors jack and a block of wood against the rear of the engine/transmission to tip the engine forward against the mounts (left intact).
This created enough room to twist the alternator up and out between the intake and firewall. Tight fit - YES. But it was by far easier than taking the front end apart.
Alternator bolts can be accessed from the bottom with a 3/8 ratchet and several extensions and a universal joint on the alternator end. My ratchet was near the CAT to Y-pipe coupling.
Serpentine belt can be removed from the top as well with the 3/8 ratchet and a piece of pipe on the handle.
I tied a piece of heavy twine to the new one to drop it into place and just maneuvered it from the bottom to get it where it needed to be.
Now that I've been through the process, I could probably do one in about an hour.

Apologies for the embedded hotlinks. I hate VigLink and it still embeds links even though it's supposedly disabled.

 

Sorry was not able to get back in the site. Like your idea and will do start a new thread about it.

 

Scott, could you explain? Take the pinch bolt out, pull the arm down and I can remove the axle from the tranny? Then swing all that out of the way to make room for the alternator? Just ready to tackle and looking for smoothest process. 07 escape 3L

 

that sounds correct. I do remember losing a little fluid when the axle came out but with it jacked up on the passenger's side it wasn't much.
It has been quite some time and I think I'm scarred and blocking the memories.
Good luck and let us know how you do!

 

Joe, I just went thru this the second time. This time I did leave the ductwork off the new one, and used this video on YOUTUBE from a good mechanic in Alaska

 

Also, does anyone know if this job is any easier on a 2009-12 V6 Escape? Mine is a 2005. I like the vehicle and engine, but will not buy another vehicle with an alternator that is that ridiculous to replace..