Hub and Ball Joint questions?
#1
Hub and Ball Joint questions?
Hey guys.
Just found out that I am going to need to replace my driver side front hub and also the front 2 lower ball joints.
What I'd like to replace 1st is the hub since it sounds like I have big ol mudders on my 97 Expedition and it very loud.
-What I like to know is how hard is it to replace my dirver side hub? I have the 97 4x4 expedition.
Also is it worth even attempting to Do It Myself on the 2 front lower ball joints??
Thanks for any help or tips to get the hub off the easiest way.
Just found out that I am going to need to replace my driver side front hub and also the front 2 lower ball joints.
What I'd like to replace 1st is the hub since it sounds like I have big ol mudders on my 97 Expedition and it very loud.
-What I like to know is how hard is it to replace my dirver side hub? I have the 97 4x4 expedition.
Also is it worth even attempting to Do It Myself on the 2 front lower ball joints??
Thanks for any help or tips to get the hub off the easiest way.
#2
#4
I recently replaced the lower ball joints and the most difficult part of the job was to get the rotors off. I found Moog ball joints come with a grease fitting.
The job was made easier by removing and supporting the brake caliper out of the way along with the brake rotor. This makes it easier to manuever the spindle assembly which is somewhat heavy and awkward if you leave the rotor and caliper on. You will need a 36 mm socket to get the axle nut off and you will need to borrow the ball joint press tool kit at AutoZone. If your local Autozone has the kit with only four or five parts in it, you will need a small flat piece of steel. If you get the press kit that is also a u-joint press kit you will have all the adapters you will need. I borrowed the tool from two different part stores and the better kit was not available when I did the second side. Be very careful not to damage the CV joint boot. Take your time when setting up the ball joint press and make sure everything lines up. The ball joints also need to be oriented and are marked on the boot. There was a mark indicating which side had to go to the inside. There is also a snap-ring which needs to be removed before the old ball joint can be pressed out.
The job was made easier by removing and supporting the brake caliper out of the way along with the brake rotor. This makes it easier to manuever the spindle assembly which is somewhat heavy and awkward if you leave the rotor and caliper on. You will need a 36 mm socket to get the axle nut off and you will need to borrow the ball joint press tool kit at AutoZone. If your local Autozone has the kit with only four or five parts in it, you will need a small flat piece of steel. If you get the press kit that is also a u-joint press kit you will have all the adapters you will need. I borrowed the tool from two different part stores and the better kit was not available when I did the second side. Be very careful not to damage the CV joint boot. Take your time when setting up the ball joint press and make sure everything lines up. The ball joints also need to be oriented and are marked on the boot. There was a mark indicating which side had to go to the inside. There is also a snap-ring which needs to be removed before the old ball joint can be pressed out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Derrick Kephart
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
11
01-29-2014 09:13 AM
4caster
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
02-18-2013 09:37 PM