Truck is running rough after stereo install
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: iowa
I know this is not your problem since you said it wasn't different when you unplugged the stereo but for anyone that has an engine with a knock sensor those big booming bass blasters that everyone likes so much really wreck havoc on the system, and will make the vehicle run like dog you know what. The knock sensor detects a knock that it thinks is the engine pinging, and keeps backing the timing off clear to it's limit which on most is about 20deg retarded and if you have ever driven a vehicle with the timing retarded that far you know how bad they run.
just thought I would add that for future reference to anyone that is interested.
just thought I would add that for future reference to anyone that is interested.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,006
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From: Sussex County, DE
Testing for vacuum leaks isn't too bad. Get a can of carburetor cleaner and spray over the manifold gasket surfaces, vacuum lines and fittings, etc. with the engine idling and see if the engine picks up speed and smooths out. If so, then you found a leak. Also, I don't know where you hooked up the amp or where you got your power and ground, but make sure that allyour fusable links are hooked up and that you didn't disturb any grounds.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 208
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From: Meggett SC
I had a simular problem on my 84 turned out to be the erg valve was leaking internally. The valve seat became corroded. To test this I cut a piece of flashing the size of egr valve gasket and blanked the egr valve off. Ran like a new truck after that. Then I just replaced the egr valve and all was well.
Also there is a vacuum solenoid that turns the egr valve on. Check this out by tracing the vacuum line from theegr valve to the solenoid.
Good Luck
Also there is a vacuum solenoid that turns the egr valve on. Check this out by tracing the vacuum line from theegr valve to the solenoid.
Good Luck
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 142
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From: southern Indiana
Found the problem. I had it grounded to the raised part of the back wall(where the metal trim used to be attached). Apparently this isn't a good grounding point. I grounded it to the frame (bottom of cab behind the seat) and all is fine now. Don't know why, but that was the problem.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Sussex County, DE
Originally Posted by vdaily89
Found the problem. I had it grounded to the raised part of the back wall(where the metal trim used to be attached). Apparently this isn't a good grounding point. I grounded it to the frame (bottom of cab behind the seat) and all is fine now. Don't know why, but that was the problem.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: southern Indiana
Originally Posted by Argo
This might actually indicate a bad body ground. You may want to install a grounding strap between the cab and the frame. BTW, is the aux. ground cable at the negative battery terminal hooked up to the body? (Small wire). This problem could continue to surface if the cab/body ground gets worse.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
There is supposed to be a grounding strap from the back of the engine to the firewall, and it's pretty common for those to rust off so you might want to check that and replace or install one as neccesary.
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