Painting ???
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 339
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Painting ???
I am going to paint my old truck sometime soon(2-3 months). Wondering what you guys painted with. Base Coat, Clear or Enamel paint. I thought about doing the enamel. Wondering what the pros and cons are? Also Ive been looking at Classic Trucks for a long time and I never see the Fender Rubber Stripping on the show trucks....Do you guys have it yours on??? I have it on mine and I dont really like them there......
Thanks for the help
Patrick
Thanks for the help
Patrick
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Patrick -
When you say "I'm going to paint my old truck...", do you mean that you personally are going to paint it? Or, are you going to have someone else paint it? If someone else is painting it, ask what they like. If you are doing it, pick the easier method. I happen to also like a single stage paint job, but mine is a daily driver. I am doing all the body work and primer. I may have someone else shoot the color. Enamel is getting really hard to find because of the EPA. Most paints are now urethanes (2 part) or water-borne.
The fender welting is optional. I also haven't seen many trucks at shows use it. But what I really hate are the trucks that are painted with the welting installed. That looks really bad!
When you say "I'm going to paint my old truck...", do you mean that you personally are going to paint it? Or, are you going to have someone else paint it? If someone else is painting it, ask what they like. If you are doing it, pick the easier method. I happen to also like a single stage paint job, but mine is a daily driver. I am doing all the body work and primer. I may have someone else shoot the color. Enamel is getting really hard to find because of the EPA. Most paints are now urethanes (2 part) or water-borne.
The fender welting is optional. I also haven't seen many trucks at shows use it. But what I really hate are the trucks that are painted with the welting installed. That looks really bad!
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
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From: Northwest Fl
The fender welting looks good on the trucks with a more traditional look, the more customized or hot rodded, the less it is used. I personally like the look, myself.
BC/CC is supposed the easiest paint for the novice since you are breaking the process down. In the first coats you are only interested with coverage and in the last coats, you deal with the gloss. I used this system and it worked well for me. I would recommend using a hardened base so that if you happen to buff or sand through the clear and cut the base, the re-application of clear will not cause lifting and blistering.
BC/CC is supposed the easiest paint for the novice since you are breaking the process down. In the first coats you are only interested with coverage and in the last coats, you deal with the gloss. I used this system and it worked well for me. I would recommend using a hardened base so that if you happen to buff or sand through the clear and cut the base, the re-application of clear will not cause lifting and blistering.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2004
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Yes I was planning on paint my truck myself. It is a 55 by the way...Not sure on the enamel part and EPA. Just wanted a single stage paint. Always heard it called Enamel..Any suggestions on the type of paint would be helpful and brand.....Thanks for the help
Patrick
Patrick
Last edited by superman64011; Feb 23, 2006 at 11:30 AM.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
Today it's called single stage and is usually an acrylic. You can get it as waterborn, which I'd recommend since there is less issues for the home painter, no fumes, easier cleanup, thins with water, quick drying, forgiving. Virtually all automotive paints today are designed to be applied with low pressure high volume (LPHV) guns. Do you have access to the right equipment and can your compressor handle the task? Portable equipment from the local rental yard aint gonna do it.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 313
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From: Fairbanks, AK
Do a search for the NAPA/Martin Senour website. They have a lot of good paint information. Our club ("Midnight Sun Classic Tailgaters") brought in the local NAPA/Martin Senour sales reps and they put on a 2-night clinic on painting. It primarily covered products and application (very little bodywork/prep, which I still need some help with). Everyone was given a body panel that we shot with primer, base and clear coats. It was an excellent educational experience. I would recommend your club contact NAPA and see if they would do the same thing for you. Or just go to a NAPA that carries paint products and they can provide you with a wealth of information as well.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Indianapolis, Indiana
I think the single stage has benifits, But I like Base/Clear. I think it is a lottle more forgiving.
Kyle
Kyle
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,443
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From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
I have used Catalized Acrylic Enamel many many times, but this was a few years back when I did it for a job. If you can lay down a couple of coats, and not get runs or other surface issues, its all done in one step. Nice shine, reasonable durrability, but NOT fun to repair runs, etc. Dupont "Centari" was a good product.. Yes, toxic..But good. A spray booth, even home made, to keep dust out.. Well vented, lots of light.
With a catalist, the paint gets quite "hard" in 24-48 hours, rather than weeks.
Prep is everything!!
This is "old school" tech, I cant imagine a water based auto paint, but I understand its standard everywhere! Guess Im an old dog..... How does that water based stuff compare?
Just my 2 cents...
With a catalist, the paint gets quite "hard" in 24-48 hours, rather than weeks.
Prep is everything!!
This is "old school" tech, I cant imagine a water based auto paint, but I understand its standard everywhere! Guess Im an old dog..... How does that water based stuff compare?
Just my 2 cents...
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 863
Likes: 2
From: Grain Valley Mo.
I am in the process of painting my '53 with single stage. Some parts are done and some, I haven't started yet. I went with the SS because of the shine. The BC/CC has too much shine for me, it looks wet. Thats fine on a new truck but doesn't look right on the old trucks IMO. It's hard to beat the look after its wet sanded and polished. Chip Foose seemed to like SS on his new truck.
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XFM...
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XFM...
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
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Be careful. Fresh air respirators are the ONLY way to go when shooting any form of catylized paint product. Isocyantes kill, and are atracted to moisture. This means, even if your skin is a little moist from perspiration, Isocyantes will enter your body right through your skin. Other entry points are mucose membranes, eyes, ears, nose, butthole, etc.
Read this : http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/asthma.html
With the right safety precautions, equipment, and common sense, you can acheive proffesional results in a "home built" spray booth. The only thing I didn't shoot on the bronco was the clear coat, but I was all set to when a freind who owed me a favor offerd up his heated booth at his shop. But it also cost me a huge chunk of change for my fresh breathing air setup that is a necesity, not a luxury when painting.
Remember this is ANY catalyzed product, ie. Acrylic Enamel, Single Stage Urethane, and Catylized Clear Coat, Catylized Primer Surfacer, Catylized Epoxy Primer (Unless specifically marked Isocyanate Free), etc.
Read this : http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/asthma.html
With the right safety precautions, equipment, and common sense, you can acheive proffesional results in a "home built" spray booth. The only thing I didn't shoot on the bronco was the clear coat, but I was all set to when a freind who owed me a favor offerd up his heated booth at his shop. But it also cost me a huge chunk of change for my fresh breathing air setup that is a necesity, not a luxury when painting.
Remember this is ANY catalyzed product, ie. Acrylic Enamel, Single Stage Urethane, and Catylized Clear Coat, Catylized Primer Surfacer, Catylized Epoxy Primer (Unless specifically marked Isocyanate Free), etc.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,443
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From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Oh, man.. SO true about the right safety precautions, dangerous stuff. If you "suit up" cover all skin, and have the correct respirator its OK. All we ever had was a charcoal cartredge type, never had fresh air; I'm sure my lungs and brain are messed up..
I painted cars and did body work for a few years in the 70's, then I went on to paint aircraft at an air muesum, fun, but never had the correct safety equipment.....
I painted cars and did body work for a few years in the 70's, then I went on to paint aircraft at an air muesum, fun, but never had the correct safety equipment.....
